TheMadScientist
Supercharged
One of them was so MAD he tried to bite his own ear off!!
Final Drive...do it now!
- Thread starter dbutton12
- Start date
One of them was so MAD he tried to bite his own ear off!!
69birdflu
Supercharged
Greasing the rear spline
When I read the stuff Warp writes I feel extra stupid.
And after I removed the rear tire and greased the bevel box with a synthetic grease, will it last until the next oil change? After reading all of the posts I went to the Honda store and bought the Molly paste for the next time.
When I read the stuff Warp writes I feel extra stupid.
And after I removed the rear tire and greased the bevel box with a synthetic grease, will it last until the next oil change? After reading all of the posts I went to the Honda store and bought the Molly paste for the next time.
peter k
Top Fuel
pulled the bevel box of yesterday the drive shaft had the rusty look about it but it was still a bit tacky to touch, l was concerned about the other end but after reading the relative information I left it alone
this was supposed to have been done every tyre change l have my doubts
this was supposed to have been done every tyre change l have my doubts
TOMCAT
Rage against the machine
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2011
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- 9,259
- Location
- ALBANY - Western Australia
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- 2009 RIII Standard - 2008 Speed Triple -1995 900 T'Bird
The 'every tyre change' was just a suggestion .. in the hope that the job will be remembered. Bit like every new tyre i throw in a bottle of injector cleaner
Pulled bevel box off today to send to paint shop.
Getting it coloured as triumph should have done in the first place.
Was pleasantly surprised at the condition.
Lube at the end of shaft was still a little moist and in good quantity.
No obvious signs of wear after 50k.
Gotta pick up some Honda moly for reassembly, putting my new wheels and cobras front and rear back on
Getting it coloured as triumph should have done in the first place.
Was pleasantly surprised at the condition.
Lube at the end of shaft was still a little moist and in good quantity.
No obvious signs of wear after 50k.
Gotta pick up some Honda moly for reassembly, putting my new wheels and cobras front and rear back on
Attachments
muleskinner
Turbocharged
Red red wine, i mean rust
The dealer would NEVER pull the rear wheel off and lube the final drive as part of the pre delivery inspection. That's done at the factory when they put the final drive on the swing arm. I've never seen any brand bike I've been around that would. Lucky to get them to check the engine oil level these days!
I lubed mine at 7,000 miles when I replaced the rear tire. My lube was a light Blue color from the factory. I question if it's a Moly lube from the factory in the first place? I used Honda Moly60 paste. It's dark Grey in color. I've never seen a Moly lube that is Red in color? Looks like rust to me.
The dealer would NEVER pull the rear wheel off and lube the final drive as part of the pre delivery inspection. That's done at the factory when they put the final drive on the swing arm. I've never seen any brand bike I've been around that would. Lucky to get them to check the engine oil level these days!
I lubed mine at 7,000 miles when I replaced the rear tire. My lube was a light Blue color from the factory. I question if it's a Moly lube from the factory in the first place? I used Honda Moly60 paste. It's dark Grey in color. I've never seen a Moly lube that is Red in color? Looks like rust to me.
zimtuff
Nitrous
Mine was the same at 10000 klms. The tyre shop said it appeared that no lube had been added during assembly and was coated in rust like yours.
joey fletcher
My Son's Bike
Dang....I have never did anything to the final drive except change the oil.
My rear tire has been on the bike since 2007...Looks like I have a new project to do
Any tricks to doing the front and rear that might help an ol man out??
I'll be doing it by myself.
My rear tire has been on the bike since 2007...Looks like I have a new project to do
Any tricks to doing the front and rear that might help an ol man out??
I'll be doing it by myself.
dbutton12
.060 Over
not really a big deal...
The box comes off fairly easily (although I had to help mine a little with a block of wood). Hopefully the rust situation is not as bad on yours. Going back together was a tad more difficult. I used a thin pick to push the preload spring up into the pocket in the box side and it slid together with no problem. I gather from some other posts that not all R3's have this preload spring between the box and the driveshaft. Without the spring I could see this being a bit more difficult. Maybe some others can help out with the differences since mine is a touring. I used a paste-like moly/graphite blend that GM specifically uses for slip yokes for lube on mine.
The box comes off fairly easily (although I had to help mine a little with a block of wood). Hopefully the rust situation is not as bad on yours. Going back together was a tad more difficult. I used a thin pick to push the preload spring up into the pocket in the box side and it slid together with no problem. I gather from some other posts that not all R3's have this preload spring between the box and the driveshaft. Without the spring I could see this being a bit more difficult. Maybe some others can help out with the differences since mine is a touring. I used a paste-like moly/graphite blend that GM specifically uses for slip yokes for lube on mine.
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