Exhaust Header Question

[Kevm]

It seems like once you’ve done end cans and air filter, the next step in increasing performance before resorting to engine work/forced induction is less restrictive headers. There are several options discussed on the site that seem to work well. However, they are all ‘curly’ shaped (you know what I mean!). I understand this is to equalise header lengths and remove sharp bends. Is it possible to make headers that are the same shape as the originals but have less restriction – I suppose that would mean just larger diameter? Does anyone make them? I quite like the look of the originals and the heat shields are useful.

Apologies if this has been asked before; I did look but couldn’t find much.

 

[blip]

Paul Bryant who is a forum member sells headers that are the least "curly"

Other than that I once saw an article where someone modified the stock headers to be more free flowing ... Although for all my googling I can't seem to find that again.

 

[leatal]

It seems like once you’ve done end cans and air filter, the next step in increasing performance before resorting to engine work/forced induction is less restrictive headers. There are several options discussed on the site that seem to work well. However, they are all ‘curly’ shaped (you know what I mean!). I understand this is to equalise header lengths and remove sharp bends. Is it possible to make headers that are the same shape as the originals but have less restriction – I suppose that would mean just larger diameter? Does anyone make them? I quite like the look of the originals and the heat shields are useful.

Apologies if this has been asked before; I did look but couldn’t find much.

I started a conversation last year about this very same topic. I found a post on Facebook from TTS in England who take a standard exhaust flange and welds bigger primaries (1.75") into a larger collector. They claim an increase of 30HP on their turbocharged bikes with this header. The conversation can be found on this site in the "Custom Mods" section under the title "Improved OEM header?". I even purchased an additional OEM header off Ebay to mod and am still trying to figure the best way to increase performance and rid this choked stock header. Obviously a true 3-1 collector with longer primaries will be the most efficient but all that I have seen are either constructed of mild steel or have too large of primary pipes, and all have minimal or no heat shields. I even considered modifying the stock header to a Lakester style collector as an improvement. I like the looks of the attached photo system, seems efficient, but not sure how it will work with the Roadster. My current thinking is a 2-2-1 style header using two inline 2-1 collectors with increasing output diameters. This style should keep the header tucked in away from your leg and utilize the OEM flanges and heat shields.

 

[IMFASTTOO]

It seems like once you’ve done end cans and air filter, the next step in increasing performance before resorting to engine work/forced induction is less restrictive headers. There are several options discussed on the site that seem to work well. However, they are all ‘curly’ shaped (you know what I mean!). I understand this is to equalise header lengths and remove sharp bends. Is it possible to make headers that are the same shape as the originals but have less restriction – I suppose that would mean just larger diameter? Does anyone make them? I quite like the look of the originals and the heat shields are useful.

Apologies if this has been asked before; I did look but couldn’t find much.

I dont think anyone will make a header like you want I dont think it would sell well or make good power

 

[hvacnr]

I started a conversation last year about this very same topic. I found a post on Facebook from TTS in England who take a standard exhaust flange and welds bigger primaries (1.75") into a larger collector. They claim an increase of 30HP on their turbocharged bikes with this header. The conversation can be found on this site in the "Custom Mods" section under the title "Improved OEM header?". I even purchased an additional OEM header off Ebay to mod and am still trying to figure the best way to increase performance and rid this choked stock header. Obviously a true 3-1 collector with longer primaries will be the most efficient but all that I have seen are either constructed of mild steel or have too large of primary pipes, and all have minimal or no heat shields. I even considered modifying the stock header to a Lakester style collector as an improvement. I like the looks of the attached photo system, seems efficient, but not sure how it will work with the Roadster. My current thinking is a 2-2-1 style header using two inline 2-1 collectors with increasing output diameters. This style should keep the header tucked in away from your leg and utilize the OEM flanges and heat shields.

I like that style of header. Where like I get it ?

 

[JRock]

Predator header made by Sam OLear, travelguy, long out of production.

 

[Paul Bryant]

I've looked at doing a free flowing standard style header, but just really haven't put the time into it.
I've seen the TTS one, but they still use the stock cast flange, oval piece that bolts to the head, which is one of the two major restrictions in the stock header.
There's no point putting a bigger tube after a small, tightly bent restrictive flange assy.

 

[Kevm]

Thanks for the replies all. What I'm hearing is next to nobody what I asked about, it's hard to do it and wouldn't be that good anyway. I suppose the likes of Paul B's looks the way it does for a reason. And that look is growing on me...

 

[Ygransom]

I've looked at doing a free flowing standard style header, but just really haven't put the time into it.
I've seen the TTS one, but they still use the stock cast flange, oval piece that bolts to the head, which is one of the two major restrictions in the stock header.
There's no point putting a bigger tube after a small, tightly bent restrictive flange assy.

Paul, what is the other major restriction? Crossover?

 

[Paul Bryant]

The other major restriction in the stock header is the Center and Rear Cylinders "STOP SIGN" where these two join the front Cylinders sweeping rearward pipe.
Imagine riding down the inside of this stock exhaust system, once you are past the bottle neck and 90° (about) turn at the head, then you are off down the pipe, not so bad if you are inside the front cylinder pipe, but as I say you hit a "STOP" sign at the intersection of center (& rear) and front pipes.