Ever stand er' up?

wilbur-t

Top Fuel
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
Messages
1,573
Location
Carthage N.C. U.S.A.
Ever since I removed the cat and did the Tuneboy thing, I have to be careful about how I hit the throttle in first gear. If I'm rolling along slow and snap the throttle open, she will try to stand straight up. If you let off the throttle fast with the front wheel 2 feet in the air, she comes down hard! [I need to work on that.] If I open it a little slower, but still go full on, the front wheel comes up about 6 " and stays there for a few yards.

Anyone else have the same experiance?
 
Hey wilber-t, what if you were to displace your weight forward, i.e. lay/lean forward on/over the tank? Would that serve as enough weight forward to keep the front down and if the rear felt like spinning, it would? How many times do you think the front end will take that kind of pounding before something decides to "give up the ship"?

Careful out there. Before you know it, your be the first to have a Rocket unicycle.
 
How many times do you think the front end will take that kind of pounding before something decides to "give up the ship"?
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That worrys me, Rusty. So long as I don't snap the throttle open, It's not a problem.

Hey wilber-t, what if you were to displace your weight forward, i.e. lay/lean forward on/over the tank?
Click to expand...

Geez, I'm only about 155 lbs holding a bottle of Grey Goose.:bch: Besides, my arms ain't that strong!
 
 
Mr. Wilbur

Here is my take on the stand-it-up thing.

I've never tried it on mine though I have explored the top speed thing, but because you have a drive shaft and "bevel box" as the Hinkley boys like to call it you should be able to control the loft in the front end and produce soft landings with a little practice. The drive shaft as it transmits torque to the rear wheel causes the pinion to try and climb the ring gear and that counteracts the "wheelie" effect unlike a chain drive or belt drive but, the massive input of torque still overcomes the climbing effect and causes the front wheel to lift or the rear to break traction which is why shaft drive bikes are harder on tires than a chain or belt driven bike and why it's easier to "light up the tire". It also causes the rear end of the bike to "hunch up". You get the same effect in your car but you can't see it because the wheels are hidden in the wheel wells. You can see it in a big truck as the pinion climbs the ring gear and raises the frame because you can watch the wheels as they are exposed. I watch it all the time in the mirror as 1985 Lbs. Ft. of torque gets put to the road. Back to the bike.

If you take off and whack the throttle, either you'll have enough friction between the road and the tire to lift the front or the tire will break traction. If it lifts, stay in it, don't wimp out. This bike is a tank not a 'busa so the chance of flipping it are about as good as getting hit by a train in the middle of the freeway. As the RPM climbs, the torque curve decreases and it's the torque that is lofting you so as the torque curve flattens out, the front end will succumb to the relentless pull of gravity and return to Terra firma, albeit, gently.


Having said all that, better you try it and not me. I'm a chicken.
 
Wilbur, Not often, but Yep. (Kind of like other things at my age.)
 
If you take off and whack the throttle, either you'll have enough friction between the road and the tire to lift the front or the tire will break traction. If it lifts, stay in it, don't wimp out.
Click to expand...

The last time this happened to me, the front tire was going skyward at an alarming pace. I have only stood it up like that a couple of times, but It sure felt like it would go right on over, so I wimped out. I never was a wheelie king, even on a dirt bike.
 
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