eastern beaver relay w hids

[cr0ft]

Getting a straight line directly to the battery is worthwhile even if they had fixed the part about channeling everything through the key switch. You'll probably see less voltage drop (and thus more light output) with a relay bypass than any OEM solution, unless the OEM solution is exactly that. The cost is minimal and so is the work so I'd do it regardless. It's on the work list for this winter for the bike, haven't gotten that far yet.

 

[barbagris]

(and thus more light output) with a relay bypass than any OEM solution, unless the OEM solution is exactly that.

Using Halogen Bulbs - YES. Using LEDs or HID with specific Voltage/current drivers built in (they all do) then it makes no difference. AFAIK all post 2011 twin headlamp R3's have a separate relay circuit for the headlamps. A FOC upgrade was (maybe still is) available for 2010 models.

If you start piggy-backing relays you can get some VERY odd results - not to mention you're wasting watts - a relay requires power. I've seen all sorts of latching issues with piggy backed relays - generally due to false earths.

Also - in case anybody still thinks BIGGER WATTAGE BULBS are a good idea.

The Light unit plastic will turn powdery and disintegrate with the heat - I had a relay issue (basically the contacts welded themselves shut - 10Amp circuit and 25amp relays) that resulted in both beams being on at once - effectively 115Watts.

The Bulb connector plastic surround melted and the reflector went so brittle I could crush it with my hands. It's also why I go OVERKILL on relays - where eastern beaver use 20A relays I use 40amp (now). My auk fusebox is fed by a 70A relay.

I have a contact in Hella who says a cheap 35W sealed beam 5&3/4" light unit will put more light on the road than the triumph reflectors using H4 60/55W bulbs. In fact most H4The 5&3/4" form factor was never meant to use replaceable bulbs.

 

[cr0ft]

Yeah, all my accessories will be fed through a 60 amp PDM60 once this winter's work is done. And LED lamps are going on. And an Eastern Beaver kit feeding them through the PDM60, just to reduce the power through the switch, my bike is too old to have any bypasses OEM.

 

[Rocket Scientist]

I run Hella e-code glass reflectors and Piaa high output bulbs running through an Eastern Beaver relay setup. Makes a lot of light and puts it where you need it.

 

[motolink]

Does anyone have the problem with the std high and low beam beam adjustment, I find when the low beam is adjusted right high beam is way to high and if I adjust the high beam to be right low beam is way to low. So sort have compromised by having one light adjusted for low and one for high.

If going down the LED track, is it a matter of replacing headlight units with two LED unites?

 

[barbagris]

Does anyone have the problem with the std high and low beam beam adjustment, I find when the low beam is adjusted right high beam is way to high and if I adjust the high beam to be right low beam is way to low. So sort have compromised by having one light adjusted for low and one for high.

If going down the LED track, is it a matter of replacing headlight units with two LED unites?

The adjustment problem you mention is a problem with the OEM reflector design. There is a BIG BLACK HOLE on dip right where light should be. Putting HID's in often makes this fact even more obvious. I tried quite a few as I have a mate in Toledo who was selling HID kits - He had several different suppliers and types - all horrid.

LED units are one option. Plug and Play. I like LED lights more than HID - but they're not a cheap option. One problem with HID is that they NEED to be matched pairs - otherwise you can get one ignite and the other times out before lighting. imo each HID exciter needs a separate power switch. I have been though this so often - I simply gave up.

You can just as easily fit better 5&3/4" Halogen lights - recommend Patterned lenses and steel plain reflectors. i.e. Old Triumph Speed Triple. My personal preference, however, would be for Cibie units and any decent 4000K-5000K H4 bulb. PIAA are good but imo VERY overpriced.

 

[zenbiker]

I am running two LED units from Harley. Fantastic light and simple plug ins. I also have the Eastern Beaver setup. The Harley units are very expensive and can be had in silver background or black which I have and look very cool.

https://imageshack.com/i/n7a5pqj
https://imageshack.com/i/nh8nwpj

 

[motolink]

Zenbiker, they are cool with the black back ground, how is the road lighting cpmpared to the stock system.Are you saying they will fit straight into a Rocket and plug into the stock wiring.
What is the cost of each light unite.

 

[Joesmoe]

Please forgive my ignorance . . . I presume this is a Roadster problem ?

The 2014 Touring has a 7" (??? I don't know how it's measured) single main headlight, and the shells do not *appear* to be plastic. I have put Eastern Beaver kits on all my bikes -- Suzuki V-Strom also runs all their power through the ignition switch and . . . yada yada.

I purchased the 50A version (he also sells a 30A configuration) and run an extra-wattage halogen on the logic if cars can have 2 x 55W why can't I have 1 x 110W?

I've routed everything that was easy through the EB fuse box: the headlights, "drive" lights, heated grips, and the Nuvi navigation - so far.

 

[zenbiker]

They cost somewhere around $320 per unit. The lighting is so far beyond stock that I cannot even compare them. DAYLIGHT! at night.
They plug right into the stock sockets and fit right into the headlight housing with no modifications at all. They are also beautifully made.
You have to pay big bucks but just an easy and perfect result.