Drive shaft question

[Mike Rocket]

I am intending to lube up my 2014 Rocket Roadster drive shaft splines but am a little unclear about it as the workshop manual i have is not telling me what i want to know. Any help would be appreciated.
My question is when i remove the diff. unit (it pulls off i think) is it likely to pull the complete drive shaft out of the gearbox end? I cannot determine how it is fixed to the gearbox unless it just pushes onto splines at the gearbox end. If it does what is to stop it pulling out of the gearbox if it's a bit tight on the diff. end?
The second question is should i lube the gearbox end splines as well as the diff. end splines?
I know there is a lot of riders on here that have had these apart and would be glad of any advice on this please.
Thanks in advance.

 

[Martin-Brighton-uk]

When you remove the bevel box you won't pull the drive shaft off the gearbox output shaft cos it's held on by the swingarm. You can grease the bevel box pinion to drive shaft with your bevel box off, but to grease the drive shaft to gearbox output shaft you'll need to remove the swing arm, and for that you'll need the lockout tool.

 

[Martin-Brighton-uk]

If you were to remove the swing arm, only then can you pull the drive shaft pinion off the output shaft. When reassembling, you put the drive shaft on first, then slide the swing arm on and the drive shaft slides inside. You can't do it the other way around. You can't fit the swing arm then slide the drive shaft in it. It has a reduction in size that stops the shaft coming out.

 

[Ralsmith]

Just do the bevel box end. Did mine today and it was probably a 2 he job I clouding cleaning out all the old moly paste and replacing with new. On assembly I placed a length of 3/8” hose under the shaft to help slide the bevel box on an get it started. I then pulled out the hose, made lining the shaft up on splines real easy rather than struggling with shaft resting on bottom of tube.

 

[Ralsmith]

Just do the bevel box end. Did mine today and it was probably a 2 he job I clouding cleaning out all the old moly paste and replacing with new. On assembly I placed a length of 3/8” hose under the shaft to help slide the bevel box on an get it started. I then pulled out the hose, made lining the shaft up on splines real easy rather than struggling with shaft resting on bottom of tube.

Old paste is rust color

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

Unfortunately Triumph forgot to provide us Rocket owners with a protocol and procedure for this important maintenance need in either the owners manual or the shop service manual. Every time you remove the rear wheel be sure to lubricate the driveshaft splines with a high concentration moly paste. We all used to use Honda Moly 60 paste, but in Honda's great wisdom they discontinued it. They did however replace it with M77 Assembly paste. DO NOT USE the M77 product for your splines. NOT the same stuff or used for the same purpose. The best we know of now is one of the Locite Moly Pastes. Unfortunately I have forgotten which one has been most recommended as I have not yet needed to buy the Loctite product as I still have plenty of Honda Moly 60 Paste left. Google it. And expect another Forum member to chime in with the details about the Loctite product.

 

[Martin-Brighton-uk]

Just do the bevel box end. Did mine today and it was probably a 2 he job I clouding cleaning out all the old moly paste and replacing with new. On assembly I placed a length of 3/8” hose under the shaft to help slide the bevel box on an get it started. I then pulled out the hose, made lining the shaft up on splines real easy rather than struggling with shaft resting on bottom of tube.

What a great idea with the hose to hold the shaft central in the swing arm while you attach the bevel box. The manual refers to a sleeve to do the job but the part does not exist, certainly on my 2011 Roadster anyway.

 

[Ralsmith]

What a great idea with the hose to hold the shaft central in the swing arm while you attach the bevel box. The manual refers to a sleeve to do the job but the part does not exist, certainly on my 2011 Roadster anyway.

I did not have the sleeve either, hence placing the hose under shaft to center it in the swing arm

 

[Mike Rocket]

When you remove the bevel box you won't pull the drive shaft off the gearbox output shaft cos it's held on by the swingarm. You can grease the bevel box pinion to drive shaft with your bevel box off, but to grease the drive shaft to gearbox output shaft you'll need to remove the swing arm, and for that you'll need the lockout tool.

Thanks Martin. I can find no mention of lubricating the gearbox end of the shaft so i suppose it's not needed to be lubed.

 

[Mike Rocket]

Unfortunately Triumph forgot to provide us Rocket owners with a protocol and procedure for this important maintenance need in either the owners manual or the shop service manual. Every time you remove the rear wheel be sure to lubricate the driveshaft splines with a high concentration moly paste. We all used to use Honda Moly 60 paste, but in Honda's great wisdom they discontinued it. They did however replace it with M77 Assembly paste. DO NOT USE the M77 product for your splines. NOT the same stuff or used for the same purpose. The best we know of now is one of the Locite Moly Pastes. Unfortunately I have forgotten which one has been most recommended as I have not yet needed to buy the Loctite product as I still have plenty of Honda Moly 60 Paste left. Google it. And expect another Forum member to chime in with the details about the Loctite product.

Maybe the black Lithium cv joint grease is ok to use? It is listed for metal sliding parts.