Diagnosing Electrical Short - Assistance Needed

[Gothlander]

From memory the headlights share a ground with the park lights, if you wire the headlights wrong you can back feed the park circuit.

 

[tribal]

I have replaced my RR, Put it back in the old spot, you can get a cheaper one here.http://www.electrosport.com

I bought this kit http://roadstercycle.com/ Super Kit.
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvhaOHUjy3g

 

[tribal]

Circuit Protected Rating Position

Accessory socket,
instrument memory,
heated grips, clock 10 3
Main fuse 30 11

TESTING Update:
1. 12.5V Across battery, unhooked negative post
2. tested between ground cable & negative post -
2.1 All fuses in - meter reads 10.81 (not right)
2.1 10A fuse #3 out - meter drops to 9.61 (two electrical issues?)

I have no accessary plugs, heated grips etc - the dealer did work on the throttle controls replacing a cable - will check the connector in there.

I could have sworn bike ran better with fuse 4 ( 15A Alarm, diagnostic connector, indicators, brake lights) out so I was surprised to not see any voltage changes with that fuse removed. Hope thats a side effect and not a seperate issue.

I am now going through all the cabling, removing old tape, cleaning etc. and will apply dielectric grease and retape or shrink wrap those that look fine.

 

[tribal]

cables inside throttle control looked normal - cleaned up and reassembled.

I will be unplugging the front blinkers and headlights next to rule those wires out and checking all connections under the tank.

How do I check the key switch?

Another thing - when I turn on the ignition the speedo needle does the self test but the tachometer needle sits there until the bike starts - is this normal?

 

[tribal]

lifted tank and unplugged every plug I could see and still get 9.61v across negative terminal. Cleaned, greased and plugged everything back in.

Pulled all relays on left and right side, greased, and reseated - all seemed fine.

Will look at key switch plug and headlights next and try to trace Tachometer cable back to plug...

Also, there are two cables coming off positive battery terminal. The large main one and a smaller one that runs into the wiring harness. When I diconnect the small one the short goes away (no power, no short).

 

[tribal]

OK, I tried a few more things today:

disconnected front lights - no change
disconnected key switch - no change

THEN, I unplugged the regulator and numer dropped to .05. Plugged in a new Reg and it went back up to 9.6 with fuse #3 out (10.8 with all fuses in). Hmmmm.

Fired bike up and it actually sounded good and was idling much better.

switched meter to more sensitive setting - now 053. Pulled fuse #4 and it drops to 021.

It still looks like there is a short somewhere but ****ed if I can find it.

Maybe I'll just put in the Regulator relay mod, Eastern Beaver headlight relay mod, new Odysey battery and see if thats good enough. Thoughts?

New wiring harness too perhaps? Didn't really want to go there but...

 

[honker]

I had the same problem and as in your case it got worse as time went on. Here is what I found.. The reason its melting fuses quicker is the fuse holder continues deteriorate everytime the fuse overheates. While the amp rating of the fuse is adequate the surface area of the small fuse will not handle the load over time. Here is what i did. I went to NAPA and bought a inline fuse holder that holds a substantially larger spade type 30 amp fuse with much more contact area And heavier wires. Take the fuse block loose and turn it over. Solder in the new fuse holder lead wires to replace the fuse holder for the stock 30 amp fuse. Mine has been in 2 years now with no sign of overheating.Same 30 amp rating but more surface area to handle the load without overheating. I hope this helps!

 

[tribal]

I had the same problem and as in your case it got worse as time went on. Here is what I found.. The reason its melting fuses quicker is the fuse holder continues deteriorate everytime the fuse overheates. While the amp rating of the fuse is adequate the surface area of the small fuse will not handle the load over time. Here is what i did. I went to NAPA and bought a inline fuse holder that holds a substantially larger spade type 30 amp fuse with much more contact area And heavier wires. Take the fuse block loose and turn it over. Solder in the new fuse holder lead wires to replace the fuse holder for the stock 30 amp fuse. Mine has been in 2 years now with no sign of overheating.Same 30 amp rating but more surface area to handle the load without overheating. I hope this helps!

Genius minds think alike - I did this mod Saturday. Actually, I had no choice as the regular fuse box slot was shot.

I think with that, a new heavy duty Battery, new regulator wired on its own 30A fuse, new Eastern Beaver headlight bypass kit on its own 30A fuse and all the other cleaning, greasing and rewraping of all electrical connections I should be back on the road.

 

[tribal]

Update:



1. Installed new Odyssey Battery

2. installed new Regulator wired on its own 30A fuse

3. Still waiting for the Beaver to send me my headlight wiring kit.

4. I did find a frayed wire up under the rear fender but it didn't appear to be touching metal - I need to pull the tire off to repair it.



Still reading 10-11V across negative terminal to cable - majority is coming through 10A accessory fuse. I have no accessories so am thinking about pulling the tachometer apart and see whats going on inside.



I was having withdrawals, so I put it all back together. It ran OK but has a hard time idling.

 

[tribal]

I pray you found the solution.

Starting to have elec probs myself and at only 48000 miles. My previous machines made it to 90000 + before elec probs kicked in.
You know what cause idle issues -

How many mile you got on that ol' Tribal now?
How many Darkside tires have you gone through too? Keep on!

Hey, how's it going!

I'm at 100,750 miles now and well into my 3rd DS (getting 25K out of them). Running a Raptor now & love it.

I'm still waiting for my Eastern Beaver headlight relay kit but I don't think that will solve it. I think its either the key switch or Tach or wiring harness. May order the keyless ignition parts next.