Clutch not disengaging.

Canister

.020 Over
Joined
Mar 24, 2023
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13
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2011 rocket 3
Put a new detent spring, barnett clutch, and barnett red springs into my 2011 triumph rocket 3. Now attempting to get the clutch set right and it is not disengaging. I tried the 3mm of free play and it wouldn't start, jacked the bike up and the rear tire started spinning when it turned over any tips or anything that im not thinking about would be greatly appreciated.
 
Please post pics of the cable lever adjustment and also pic of the adjustment and lower clutch arm.
 
TURBO200R4 said:
Please post pics of the cable lever adjustment and also pic of the adjustment and lower clutch arm.
Click to expand...
Yes I know the dots don't line up this was me trying to get it to disengage
 

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I'm guessing, but I think you're measuring the 3mm from the adjustment wheel to the end of the cable. If so, that's not it. The distance there is not important, it's the distance either between the lever before it pulls tight (official in the manual), or (@warp9.9) method- the distance between the sheath of the cable to the adjuster stem when you pull it back.

Scroll down to the fifth post on this page where @warp9.9 describes and diagrams it...

further clutch adjustment?

Hello all!!! I recently picked up a used 2005 Rocket, I love it. One of the first things I did was install a heavy duty Barnett clutch without issue. Put on about 500 miles no problems at all, noticed that the clutch adjustment at the handle needed to be tweaked to give me the recommended 2mm of...
www.r3owners.net

I hope this helps....
 
I had it with the free play and it would not disengage when the clutch was pulled in
 
I am dumb, haven't ridden the bike in so long I forgot that it won't start with the kickstand down, made way to many adjustments but now I have free play in the cable, waiting for the bike to charge to test drive it now. Edit, now the clutch won't disengage when I start the bike, if the battery was charged I could drive it off of the starter so I have now clue what's going on.
 

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Last edited:
I am thinking that the arm/shaft are clocked wrong.
Am going to try to post pic of mine
 

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The shaft dot is to the right of the slot on the lever and yours is to the left.
This is the correct position for the lever to start to apply the clutches. If you can not get this position then i think that something is wrong on the inside
 
Dude. The dots have to light up on the arm. Take it off and put it back on the spline correctly and measure the cable. Easy mistake as it's not easy to make it assembled without offsetting it like you did.
Remove the cable from the clutch lever. Then remove the arm from the spline and install so the dots are aligned. Now take all the slack out of the adjustment screws. Assemble the cable on the lever on the handle bars. Adjust the screws.
I actually made this mistake when I change out the cracked front clutch cover on mine.
 
Possible two things going on here......

First - They're talking about these dots being out of alignment... Fix that first.


Second - The lifter shaft is not aligned with the mechanism in the clutch cover. The first time I reinstalled the clutch cover I made a similar mistake. You have to cock the lever a little bit so that it engages properly with the shaft.

Before you button it up you can hold the cover in place and check it by working that lower lever. Pulling up on it will be like squeezing in the clutch lever. You'll feel that kind of resistance and letting go it should return down to the starting position. The spring in the clutch cover is what returns your clutch lever when you release it.



If you force it when assembled wrong you can break that button!

Watch this video- it shows how it works....
 
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