further clutch adjustment?

[Terryfyd]

Hello all!!! I recently picked up a used 2005 Rocket, I love it. One of the first things I did was install a heavy duty Barnett clutch without issue. Put on about 500 miles no problems at all, noticed that the clutch adjustment at the handle needed to be tweaked to give me the recommended 2mm of play. About 100 miles after I made that adjustment Ioticed an intermittent slow "Clunk...Clunk...Clunk" when coasting to a stop with the clutch in, and sometimes when I start off I can feel an uneven "Grab...Grab...Grab" I'm going to return the clutch adjustment to where it originally was with no play and see what happens. Any further insight would be appreciated.

 

[warp9.9]

You're losing the torsional damper bearings would be my guess. Next time you do a oil change plan ahead and order a sump pan gasket. Probably 20 bucks at the most. Anyway after you drain the oil drop the sump pan and look in the rear left corner for bits. The will look like pieces of bearing cage. Clutch adjustment is important having non will burn up the clutch liftershaft and snap the clutch lifterpiece.

 

[Terryfyd]

You're losing the torsional damper bearings would be my guess. Next time you do a oil change plan ahead and order a sump pan gasket. Probably 20 bucks at the most. Anyway after you drain the oil drop the sump pan and look in the rear left corner for bits. The will look like pieces of bearing cage. Clutch adjustment is important having non will burn up the clutch liftershaft and snap the clutch lifterpiece.

Thanks...Ill plan on that.

 

[Terryfyd]

Thanks...Ill plan on that.

For my own piece of mind I backed the clutch adjustment (at the handlebar) out again and clunking problem solved, (The clutch was not fully disengaging) except for the suggested 2-3mm play. To confirm the issue, when i disengage the clutch halfway via the clutch handle, it mimics the "clunk" noise (new friction plates hanging up? Should it make this noise? Is there a fix?) Back to the 2-3mm play...I believe the tension that I'm getting on the clutch handle is from the return spring on the clutch lifter shaft as opposed to the actual clutch springs. With feeling slight pressure from the return spring is how I indexed the lifter arm to the clutch lifter shaft. The clutch cable is fully seated at the lower adjustment, and at the halfway point at the handlebar adjustment. See pics attached. Everything is functioning properly now except for the 2-3mm play. Am I missing something? Adjusting out of order? Is there a zero point that I should be starting at. I don't want to do any damage by screwing up the clutch adjustment. Any advice is welcomed!
Thanks,

 

[warp9.9]

Your assumption is kind of right.
The free play tension has to do with the lifter shaft return spring (located inside the clutch cover) that also is the tension area the free play is in. It keeps the lifter shaft forks from excessive rubbing. So it's definitely important that it has free play. I check mine at the cable sheath like below first no clutch hand pressure,

Notice where the arrow above is pointing. It right at the aluminum sheath farrel and the knurled clutch adjuster. No gap metal to metal. Now below I give just a little tug on the outer sheath.

And you can now see a gap at the same arrow. This gap should be 2mm-3mm . I find this a easier way to quickly check freeplay.
Hope this helps.

 

[cootertwo]

Sounds to me, like the old clutch "judder" thing. Did you install the judder spring and it's washer when doing the Barnett install? And put the disk with the larger center, in first?

 

[Kevin frazier]

Sounds to me, like the old clutch "judder" thing. Did you install the judder spring and it's washer when doing the Barnett install? And put the disk with the larger center, in first?

t1 on this thinking as i have seen over and over after sn upgrade something seems to go wrong and alot of times its mechanic error, i hope that is the case here because taking the front back off maybe to flip convex judder to convex facing out is better than torsional repair, getter done and fill us in, no shame in a little mistake as these babies like exact. Good luck brutha, i adjust like warp shows us to and it works great as long as the cable bracket (no flexing when lever is pulled) and cable are correct in positio.

 

[Terryfyd]

t1 on this thinking as i have seen over and over after sn upgrade something seems to go wrong and alot of times its mechanic error, i hope that is the case here because taking the front back off maybe to flip convex judder to convex facing out is better than torsional repair, getter done and fill us in, no shame in a little mistake as these babies like exact. Good luck brutha, i adjust like warp shows us to and it works great as long as the cable bracket (no flexing when lever is pulled) and cable are correct in positio.

I followed Benny Kimichi's excellent video to a T! (

).
He pointed out the proper placement and orientation of the judder spring and washer, as well as the first friction plate. Barnett makes this a little easier by making the first plate a different color. After the latest adjustment of the clutch cable I had no further issues except for the 2-3mm clearance. I seem to be bottomed out on all of my cable adjustments. The only way I see to gain play back would be re-indexing the lifter arm on the clutch lifter shaft. If I hear anymore clunking I'll be "cracking the case" again. Thanks everyone for your input!

 

[warp9.9]

I followed Benny Kimichi's excellent video to a T! (

).
He pointed out the proper placement and orientation of the judder spring and washer, as well as the first friction plate. Barnett makes this a little easier by making the first plate a different color. After the latest adjustment of the clutch cable I had no further issues except for the 2-3mm clearance. I seem to be bottomed out on all of my cable adjustments. The only way I see to gain play back would be re-indexing the lifter arm on the clutch lifter shaft. If I hear anymore clunking I'll be "cracking the case" again. Thanks everyone for your input!

Not sure if your aware but down where the cable mounts in bracket on the clutch cover is where you adjust outer sheath length. Yours pictured below

See how all of your threads are on one side of the mount marked in yellow and just about none on top marked with red. Try about 9 threads on the bottom and the rest up top.
Also you lifter shaft arm does not look like its on the normal position. By this I mean its more toward 6 O'clock verses the normal 2 or 3 O'clock like below

I can't make it out but there is a alignment dot on the lifter shaft and the shaft actuation arm. Marked with yellow below.

Now one real early rockets there was not a mark on the arm but the shafts had one. I set them referencing the shaft dot and the slit in the actuator arm. You can count the spline teeth on mine above fore the offset. Anyway the placement of the arm is important so the cable pulls the arm in a rotation. To me yours apears that being to far it pulls straight against the shaft before it starts to rotate it. This could work against you and the feel for freeplay adjustment. I'll let you absorb this and ask questions if it needs more clarifications.

 

[Kevin frazier]

Not sure if your aware but down where the cable mounts in bracket on the clutch cover is where you adjust outer sheath length. Yours pictured below

See how all of your threads are on one side of the mount marked in yellow and just about none on top marked with red. Try about 9 threads on the bottom and the rest up top.
Also you lifter shaft arm does not look like its on the normal position. By this I mean its more toward 6 O'clock verses the normal 2 or 3 O'clock like below

I can't make it out but there is a alignment dot on the lifter shaft and the shaft actuation arm. Marked with yellow below.

Now one real early rockets there was not a mark on the arm but the shafts had one. I set them referencing the shaft dot and the slit in the actuator arm. You can count the spline teeth on mine above fore the offset. Anyway the placement of the arm is important so the cable pulls the arm in a rotation. To me yours apears that being to far it pulls straight against the shaft before it starts to rotate it. This could work against you and the feel for freeplay adjustment. I'll let you absorb this and ask questions if it needs more clarifications.

My man is getting back in the game. A little coffee and the master is making the observations that matter. M&Ms are not bad for you at all. My warp notebook is getting thick.