Clutch adjustment question

BillB

Turbocharged
Joined
Sep 4, 2013
Messages
934
Location
Raleigh NC
Ride
2013 R3T, 1960 Franken-Pan
Morning folks,
Been searching the site for something that would shed some light on the process of the lever adjustment.

On the Harleys the 2-3mm of free play is easy to judge because they don't have the anti judder spring like the Rocket does. It is actual slop in the cable before it hits anything.

On the Rocket when I pull the clutch in slowly I feel an initial light spring tension that I guess is the anti judder spring then heavier tension for the rest of the pull which is the actual clutch spring. Am I looking for 2-3 mm of actual free play in the cable or are they talking about 2-3 mm of the light spring tension before the clutch starts to move.

Would have just left it alone but the bloody lock nut wasn't tightened up good to begin with and it adjusted its self.

Thanks,
BillB
2013 R3T 6 weeks old and 3200 miles on the clock. Boy is that thing fun to ride! Too bad it has been raining for the last week.
 
you should adjust for 2-3 mm of slop like the Harley. You really can't feel the judder spring tension.
Also you should feel for play at the actuating arm where the cable comes out of the engine; you can feel the free play there and watch your clutch lever while doing so.

 
Last edited:
And I'm assuming that unlike the harley, there is no other adjustment right? Harley's also have an adjustment, under the cover.
 
I think what Billb is asking is that is there 2-3 mm of actual free play in the cable, “which will still move the actuating arm where the cable comes out of the engine without the clutch starting engaging or is there suppose to be 2-3mm of play in the cable without the actuator moving at all, which would mean that the clutch leaver would move a lot more than 2-3mm at the leaver before the actuator moves at all.
 

Exactly what I wanted to know! Thanks for putting it in a more concise, less rambling form flyreels. Probably should abstain from PBC (posting before coffee)

Bill
 

Thanks for the info. I guess that it is a good thing it's raining. I have it way too tight, don't want to break the lifter piece off in a brand new engine.

Bill
 
I was going to ask this same question myself as I was going to check mine, when I read the manual I checked mine and there is 2-3mm at the leaver but it also move the actuating arm the same amount.
The manual is still ambiguous, steps 4 through 7 do not mention anything about the actuating arm, it has 2-3mm of play in it before it takes up which equates to the 2 to 3mm at the cable at the leaver end.
Is this correct? or should there be no movement in the actuating arm at all and still have the 2-3mm at the leaver? I want to make sure I get it right (as do others I am sure) and I have not had that much to do with bike clutches, most all my bikes have been new up until now and I have always had the dealers do the work due to the warranty, but I want that to change now.
 
the easiest way to check the clutch free play first with out pulling on the clutch lever



now grab the cable and pullit out to measure the gap between the ferrel and the adjuster nut



note the gap distance and adjust to the 2-3 mm free play
Hope this helps
 
Thank you very much for that.
Cheers Pete
 
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