Changing Clutch Plates Help

Dyna494

.040 Over
Joined
Dec 6, 2009
Messages
52
I just got heavy duty clutch plates from EBC and 10% heavier springs and need a bit of help.

When refitting, first in the basket is a fairly flat anti judder ring. Next in is a slightly bevelled or concave anti judder ring.

Which way in does the second anti judder ring go? If it was a bowl, would I put the bowl in smaller end first with the open end facing me? Or upside down with the open end facing away from me?

Thanks.

Also one assembled I can twist the actuator part of the lifter shaft with my fingers where it sticks out of the casing. Surely it should be tighter than this? Is something wrong?.

Thanks again in advance.
 
First in is the backing washer.
Next is the cone/anti-judder spring - concave - with bowl open end facing you.

[Soak the fiber plates in oil for 10-15 minutes before installation.]

Next is the small fiber plate - the ID is larger than the other fiber plates - this fits over the anti-judder spring.
The steel, then fiber, steel, etc., until finishing with fibers.

When tightening the springs in place, they need to be snug, not tight. Use a torque wrench.

Turn the lifter shaft one revolution to load the spring at the bottom - it should have tension trying to rotate counter-clockwise until you connect the cable, and bolt the mounting plate down to the cover.

I hope this helps.
 
Thankd for this.

Re-fitted as described above.

Turned the lifter shaft and re-fitted the engine casing. when turning the splined end of the lifter shaft sticking out of the casing it was a lot stiffer.

Re-fitted the actuator arm and pulled the clutch lever. Something snapped inside.

Reomved the casing to find the head snapped off the lifter piece.

Did I do something wrong turning the lifter shaft while I fitted the engine casing????

Ordered a new lifter piece. (Older style) Should be with me tomorrow.

Any advice as to where I went wrong would be greatfully appreciated.
 
From what I've read over time here, never had the problem myself, is that the head is the weak point .... either it works or it snaps off. I'd like to know what causes it too, just in case. I have a hard time understanding how a cable actuated with hand pressure can pull the top off a forged chunk of steel, but it seems to happen more often than one would think.
 
Just taking a crack at it here but did you rotate the lifter shaft to create the tension prior to installing the cover or after the cover? If not then rotating it while it was in contact with the lifter piece is what broke it. Like I said though your post was confusing so I am taking a shot in the dark at it.

If your bike is an 06 or newer this is the lifter piece you should order
 
Thanks. Its a late 2004 model. After I did a burn out the biting point went way out on the lever and the clutch was slipping even with the lever fully out.

After installing new friction plates and springs I pulled out the lifter piece slightly so that the lifter shaft could hook under the button head, turned the lifter shaft by hand and held it under tension while I fitted the engine casing.

After the casing was fitted the clutch did seem tighter but when I fitted the actuator arm and pulled the clutch lever the head snapped off the (old style) lifter piece.

I picked up a new lifter piece yesterday but i'm a bit concerned in case the same thing happens again.

Do you think I could have turned the lifter shaft too much and created more tension than the old style lifter piece could handle? Might it have not been seated properly?

Thanks again.
 
Ah you have the old style clutch. My guess is you rotated it to far as it does not even move 90 degrees in normal opperations you should not have to pull the lifert piece out at all to get it to line up it should sit flush against the wavey washer Did you check lifter shaft location and make not of it prior to changing it?
 
Have you put the bolts and springs in correctly.if you where to over compress the springs or install wrong you would make it to hard fot the lifter peice to move there for it may break
 
The new spring are 10% heavyer that standard. I put the bolts in evenly and nipped them up. Is there a specific torque setting that I should tighten the bolts to?
 
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