Can head gasket be down with engine in the bike and are there specialty tools needed?

[Earthquake]

Iver never done a head gasket before I’ve done some easy stuff on other bikes primary’s cam covers but never a head looking to tackle this with my brother in law which is a master Hyundai tech trying to figure out what we’ll need for tools and if it can be down without dropping the engine out 2009 rocket classic

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Yeah it can be done no problem with engine still in bike.
Wrt special tools, there are a couple if following the manual perfectly, but you can get away without any if them iirc if you know what you're doing.
Best download the manual and read through the cylinder head removal and installation sections.

My question is.... why are you replacing the head gasket?

 

[Earthquake]

Yeah it can be done no problem with engine still in bike.
Wrt special tools, there are a couple if following the manual perfectly, but you can get away without any if them iirc if you know what you're doing.
Best download the manual and read through the cylinder head removal and installation sections.

My question is.... why are you replacing the head gasket?

 

[Gregger]

Is that foam in the oil tank?? No anti freeze present? If it is just foam, I wonder if your crankcase breather is plugged and the pressure has to vent through the oil tank???? Just guessing here.

 

[Earthquake]

Is that foam in the oil tank?? No anti freeze present? If it is just foam, I wonder if your crankcase breather is plugged and the pressure has to vent through the oil tank???? Just guessing here.

I’m assuming it’s anti freeze I have to get my brother in law over to double check it

 

[TURBO200R4]

Cut a piece of thin paper/paper plate about 1/2 inch wide by 6 inch long dip it into the oil then start it on fire (in a safe place) if it sizzles or pops then it has water in the oil.
Also put an oil pan under it then back off the drain bolts about one turn and if there is water in it you should know.
Hth

 

[Gregger]

You might also want to check the rad coolant level and color/consistency... If anti freeze can get into the oil, often the oil can contaminate the coolant. Take a peek at the water pump also to see if the weep hole isn't plugged allowing a leaking water pump seal to transfer coolant into the oil sump.

 

[Claviger]

Hopefully just foam or water condensation over winter. If the bike sat outside and water got in the air box (sounds crazy but it's very possible for rain/snow to do so with underseat filter removed) it has a direct drain into the oil, which would result in this situation.

I don't think I've ever heard of an R3 with a blown factory installed HG.

Doing it in the frame isn't particularly hard. The toughest part IMHO is the bolts that are a challenge to get to because of the frame rail, but it can be done. I think I've done it 4 times now. You absolutely do not need to remove and reseat the cylinder liners as the manual says to do.

It's faster/easier to strip everything away than to try and shortcut by working around things. Harness, coil packs, etc. Free it all and move out of the way or take off if possible.

Head slides out the throttle side(right) of the bike easiest once free, same with valve cover. Once everything's unbolted, a couple of solid rubber mallet taps will get it free(couple up front by radiator, couple back by #3 exhaust port), the factory installed HGs tend to stick a bit.

Don't forget the oil light sensor on the back of the head, it's a bastard to reach but it can be done.

 

[Earthquake]

Hopefully just foam or water condensation over winter. If the bike sat outside and water got in the air box (sounds crazy but it's very possible for rain/snow to do so with underseat filter removed) it has a direct drain into the oil, which would result in this situation.

I don't think I've ever heard of an R3 with a blown factory installed HG.

Doing it in the frame isn't particularly hard. The toughest part IMHO is the bolts that are a challenge to get to because of the frame rail, but it can be done. I think I've done it 4 times now. You absolutely do not need to remove and reseat the cylinder liners as the manual says to do.

It's faster/easier to strip everything away than to try and shortcut by working around things. Harness, coil packs, etc. Free it all and move out of the way or take off if possible.

Head slides out the throttle side(right) of the bike easiest once free, same with valve cover. Once everything's unbolted, a couple of solid rubber mallet taps will get it free(couple up front by radiator, couple back by #3 exhaust port), the factory installed HGs tend to stick a bit.

Don't forget the oil light sensor on the back of the head, it's a bastard to reach but it can be done.

Thanks for the info and no it’s not stored where rain could get in but I’m in New England with a garage isn’t heated and there a lot of condensation that builds up but I’ve never had that happen pretty sure it’s coolant mixed I’m waiting on my brother in law to come over and take a look I had a leak I thought was the crank breather I’m assuming it is the head with that leak and the mixed oil I’m not very mechanically inclined but we’ll figure it out

 

[Mike Rocket]

Iver never done a head gasket before I’ve done some easy stuff on other bikes primary’s cam covers but never a head looking to tackle this with my brother in law which is a master Hyundai tech trying to figure out what we’ll need for tools and if it can be down without dropping the engine out 2009 rocket classic

Just a thought. This has happened to me with other bikes.
It could be condensation. That shows up as white/grey foamy sludge. If the bike has been run up a few times but not reached operating temp. it could produce this type of thing. A good ride getting up to full temp. should evaporate it off if there isn't too much in there. Also check breather.