05classic

.020 Over
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Jan 31, 2009
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Location
Austin TX
Yuasa vs. Oddessey All info. I see online show the YTX20L-BS has more power than the PC625 Can anyone enlighten me? Maybe I'm looking at the wrong oddessey. they show 270cca vs. 265cca. Need more power!!:confused:
 
BS-270, HL-310, and now Ive installed the PC625 . Im banking on the increased duration that the 265cca is held.
This is my third battery in three years without a battery tender; with 30k on the clock and 50 miles/day commute. ie., I put a lot of starts on my batteries and they dont seem to hold up well. Even the HL showed signs of needing a replacement at the end of year 2 but I nursed it through until now.

The Oddessy PC625 has to be shoe-horned into the box. And to fit flush to the bottom of the box a bit of modification on the box is necessary. Ive gotten around that.
 
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I'm not sure about where those stats come from, but I believe the Odyssey has a lot more "power" than the standard battery (the one you mentioned). Hopefully some others will chime in and set the record straight thru personal experience.

I am now on my third battery of the YTX20L-BS variety and that is one weak spot for this engine. Though part of the problem is my not being able to run it on a consistent basis. Rest assured though that my next battery will be with the Odyssey.

Dennis

40 (?) dtg Dubai/Kuwait
41 dtg Home
 
All I can offer is opinion.
I had to jump start my stock battery every morning through the first winter,
even with it left on a tender overnight.
It was just too weak and it was to cold for that little battery to handle.
I got a odyssey 625 and haven't jumped it once in two winters.
No comparison, spend the bucks and get a real battery.
just my 2 shillings worth.
 
All batteries, no matter what design, flooded cell, absorbed glass mat (AGM) or nickle metal hydride (NmH) all suffer from the same inevitable fate. The charge-discharge cycles cause sulfation. It's quicker in a flooded cell that any other but a flooded cell is cheaper to replace.

I consider the starting, storage system on the R3 to be marginal. You are starting a large displacement engine with a battery that was shoehorned into a chassis with considerable space limitations. In the case of the R3, whatever battery you buy needs the highest CCA (cold cranking amperage). The Hawker has that.

Interestingly, proper maintenance (keeping the terminals clean and thght and coating the connectors with di-electric anti corrosion grease) goes a long way toward extending battery life. I still have the original Yuhasa battery AGM in my '06 and it's still fine.

Keep in mind that because the R3 relies on an ECM for functionality, the ECM is always drawing a minute amount of current, just like modern automobiles.

You really need to pay attention to the connections, especially the ground and the positive connections on the starter. The starter on the R3 is 'hanging out there in the elements and so are the connections.

Of course a good charge maintainer goes a long way toward battery life and of course I recommend the Battery Tender Jounior, which I just happen to have on my website.:D
 
My first cold day of winter here, any where from -2 to +3c, my 10 month old battery would not start the bike. I got a genuine triumph battery charger with the wiring harness so I didn't have to take the seat of, no help. I then got the next battery upgrade from ytx20l-bs to a ytx20hl-bs. Still the same issue, get home from work when it was warmer, start up, charge all day and night, show fully charged, first thing in the morning, a couple of engine turns, then nothing. I changed the oil, checked the wiring after reading all the threads here, still nothing, was getting so frustrated, depressed, angry, all of the above. Had a price for a new starter, eeeeeeeeeeeek, no option. Last effort, another battery after reading about the odyssey pc625. Here in Australia another option was given to me, a cheaper yet more powerful yet still American, the Deka range. I went big, the Deka AGM ETX16, had to do a few mods, but, WOW, and WOW. Fastest I have ever heard the starter turn the motor. Highly reccommend it. There is a smaller one which fits straight in without mods but I was so pissed off with the other batteries I thought what the heck, cut the top rear of the battery metal strap, put a slight riser in the base so the battery wouldn't sit on the lip of metal since it is wider, it is secure with the rubber strap, it has pure grunt and staying power. Highly recommended after months of uncertainly of cold starts. hope this helps all who have suffered with my same issue. Cheers.
My first cold day of winter here, any where from -2 to +3c, my 10 month old battery would not start the bike. I got a genuine triumph battery charger with the wiring harness so I didn't have to take the seat of, no help. I then got the next battery upgrade from ytx20l-bs to a ytx20hl-bs. Still the same issue, get home from work when it was warmer, start up, charge all day and night, show fully charged, first thing in the morning, a couple of engine turns, then nothing. I changed the oil, checked the wiring after reading all the threads here, still nothing, was getting so frustrated, depressed, angry, all of the above. Had a price for a new starter, eeeeeeeeeeeek, no option. Last effort, another battery after reading about the odyssey pc625. Here in Australia another option was given to me, a cheaper yet more powerful yet still American, the Deka range. I went big, the Deka AGM ETX16, had to do a few mods, but, WOW, and WOW. Fastest I have ever heard the starter turn the motor. Highly reccommend it. There is a smaller one which fits straight in without mods but I was so pissed off with the other batteries I thought what the heck, cut the top rear of the battery metal strap, put a slight riser in the base so the battery wouldn't sit on the lip of metal since it is wider, it is secure with the rubber strap, it has pure grunt and staying power. Highly recommended after months of uncertainly of cold starts. hope this helps all who have suffered with my same issue. Cheers.
 
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