donaldinnewark

.020 Over
Joined
Nov 21, 2007
Messages
47
I have just bought lower deflectors and plan on buying heated grips and highway bars including highway pegs. My question is are they hard to install or should I take them to the dealer to install? Yes I am not mechanically incline just wanted to hear any thoughts. Also is it worth buying the gas gauge. I just want it done right without causing any kind of damage.
 
Can only speak for the lower deflectors & highway bars (Triumph brand). The lower deflectors are pretty simple. You may have to alter the angle to get the best "air flow" results for your riding posture. The highway bars require "some" mechanical aptitude because (on the Triumph version mind you) you will need to remove one of the main engine/frame attachment bolts (about 12 to 14 inches long) to install the bars. You need to put a tappered bar into the hole that the bolt extracts out of first (on one side of the engine) to assure that the "reinsertion" process can be accomplished. I cannot speak for the Rivco set, although they appear to be stouter for the highway pegs (the Triumph bars flex under mild load but still do the job).

The instructions of the highway bars were pretty good if I recall.

Good luck donaldinnewark! ;)

See ya.
 
Highway bars aren't particularly a challenge even for the somewhat mechanically challenged; but a floor jack or other suitable jack, preferably a bike lift should be available. The long bolt across the top of the engine (engine mounting bolt) will have to be withdrawn. You'll have to support the front of the engine. You want to squarely stand the bike up with the bike lift without actually lifting the bike off the ground. On second thought, you probably want a mechanic to do it. It takes about an hour to put on front and back bars (dealer hours).

A query here or elsewhere may be advisable about OEM bars versus Rivco bars. At one time (I vaguely recall they've since improved them) the OEM bars had a bit too much forward flex when stretching out on the highway pegs. I believe it was a Pig9r post that gave light on the newer OEM bars having stronger flanges for affixing to the engine. The OEM bars extend outside the radiator shroud and floor boards (as they should IMO) a bit more than Rivco's offering and OEMs are considerably more vertical at the outer perspective while the Rivco's canted inward toward the lower perspective.

Additionally, affixing running lights to the highway bars onto the OEM bars, IMO, is more visually appealing with the bars more vertical and outside the radiator shroud.

But to each his own.
 
Last edited:
I took off the original OEM front engine guards I had originally installed when I purchased my Rocket. I had the new and "improved" ones put on instead. I "feel" they are a bit stronger and I did mount the Kuryakin highway pegs as well. On my recent trip to and from Daytona/Key West they performed as well as expected...no complaints here.
Dennis
 
I have also had the clock and fuel gage installed as well, mainly to get that four gage cluster look rising off of the handlebars. The clock works well enough and the fuel gage is a good indicator of fuel left if you know how to use it with the trip odometers. But having said that, I also now have that Zumo 550 GPS unit and I pretty much know my fuel status when I am out on the road. And with the Zumo I know approximately where to fuel up at.
Dennis
 
As for the lower deflectors: The metal straps that wrap around the forks...take care and exercise caution or else They can and will impact the radiator shroud if angled too far rearward along this outer periphery. Some modification, Flipper's method, is said to alleviate this issue. I have this minor dimple in the upper forward edge of the left side radiator shroud as a result of turning the steering head to the full left lock position. Inspect it closely and adjust accordingly.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top