Rear wheel bearing, has this been solved?

Alright fellas! I made a bearing press that as far as my thinking goes will not allow for axial loading on the bearings! Dimensions are pretty tight but not too tight I held everything within .003, bearings slide in nicely, extended shoulder/sleeve will allow for the center spacer to hold in line with everything as it's drawn together, going to fit the brake side first since it runs down to a shoulder in the bore and the opposing side will get drawn in nice and easy and without any risk of being crooked. When my new bearing show up and I get too it we will see if my engineering skills are worth the ****... 😂 I have some needle roller bearings showing up today the sit in a counter bore on the ends so there won't be any binding metal to metal.
 

Attachments

  • IMG20261023115331.jpg
    IMG20261023115331.jpg
    141.7 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG20261023115307.jpg
    IMG20261023115307.jpg
    203.5 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG20261023115339.jpg
    IMG20261023115339.jpg
    134.4 KB · Views: 20
  • IMG20261023120126.jpg
    IMG20261023120126.jpg
    124.2 KB · Views: 18
Alright fellas! I made a bearing press that as far as my thinking goes will not allow for axial loading on the bearings! Dimensions are pretty tight but not too tight I held everything within .003, bearings slide in nicely, extended shoulder/sleeve will allow for the center spacer to hold in line with everything as it's drawn together, going to fit the brake side first since it runs down to a shoulder in the bore and the opposing side will get drawn in nice and easy and without any risk of being crooked. When my new bearing show up and I get too it we will see if my engineering skills are worth the ****... 😂 I have some needle roller bearings showing up today the sit in a counter bore on the ends so there won't be any binding metal to metal.
If you clean the grease out of the old bearings
then you can take the the axle with the old bearings and put your wheel and axle on two jack stands and balance the tire
 
Alright fellas! I made a bearing press that as far as my thinking goes will not allow for axial loading on the bearings! Dimensions are pretty tight but not too tight I held everything within .003, bearings slide in nicely, extended shoulder/sleeve will allow for the center spacer to hold in line with everything as it's drawn together, going to fit the brake side first since it runs down to a shoulder in the bore and the opposing side will get drawn in nice and easy and without any risk of being crooked. When my new bearing show up and I get too it we will see if my engineering skills are worth the ****... 😂 I have some needle roller bearings showing up today the sit in a counter bore on the ends so there won't be any binding metal to metal.
Before I retired I had access to machine shop benefits, but now have to pay for those services. Hope your new fixture works.
 
Before I retired I had access to machine shop benefits, but now have to pay for those services. Hope your new fixture works.
Please don't hesitate to hit me up for anything you might need turned, milled or ground, we have a blanchard grinder so not like a traversing surface grinder but I can get stuff pretty flat if it's steel or stainless steel... As long as you don't mind covering the shipping I don't mind donating a few hours of my time to a good cause 😁👍, Fridays I get access to whatever I need so long as the machine isn't in use.
 
Please don't hesitate to hit me up for anything you might need turned, milled or ground, we have a blanchard grinder so not like a traversing surface grinder but I can get stuff pretty flat if it's steel or stainless steel... As long as you don't mind covering the shipping I don't mind donating a few hours of my time to a good cause 😁👍, Fridays I get access to whatever I need so long as the machine isn't in use.
Thanks for the offer
 
Well fellas! So far so good no clicking or ticking! Only down side is not sure if it was the press or a new spacer or the different rim I picked up? Maybe combination of the three? The bearing press I made definitely helped with the install and wouldn't allow for any type of side loading to the bearing since the brass pieces I made engage both inner and outer race at the same time from both sides and it just pulls the drive side in tight and even. regardless I'm gonna ride it a few hundred miles and I will pull the wheel and inspect for any bearing tightness or other weirdness just to make sure all is still well.
 

Attachments

  • 17933120154576690882512431398038.jpg
    17933120154576690882512431398038.jpg
    282.9 KB · Views: 2
for what it is worth my 2007 still has the same bearings probably 70,000
when i check the bearings they are tight but when they are tighten the wheel will turn easy without drag or roughness and no noise.
any more i do not even use a torque wrench (on my own stuff) i just tighten it up like a lug nut . now when i tighten a customers wheel i always use an impact going with 1/2 to 3/8 tool then about a 6 inch 3/8 extension then the correct socket this is like a torque tool that gets about 75 pounds of torque then finish to 85 with a torque wrench. i just hate it when some one uses an impact and hammers it down so you need a three foot cheater bar to break it loose.
a lot of times when the tire guy hammers it down it stretches the threads and locks the nut so when you try to take it off it breaks the studs
 
for what it is worth my 2007 still has the same bearings probably 70,000
when i check the bearings they are tight but when they are tighten the wheel will turn easy without drag or roughness and no noise.
any more i do not even use a torque wrench (on my own stuff) i just tighten it up like a lug nut . now when i tighten a customers wheel i always use an impact going with 1/2 to 3/8 tool then about a 6 inch 3/8 extension then the correct socket this is like a torque tool that gets about 75 pounds of torque then finish to 85 with a torque wrench. i just hate it when some one uses an impact and hammers it down so you need a three foot cheater bar to break it loose.
a lot of times when the tire guy hammers it down it stretches the threads and locks the nut so when you try to take it off it breaks the studs
some of these tire people just let the gun rattle, don't worry about stretching threads or distorting drums and rims.
 
Well fellas! So far so good no clicking or ticking! Only down side is not sure if it was the press or a new spacer or the different rim I picked up? Maybe combination of the three? The bearing press I made definitely helped with the install and wouldn't allow for any type of side loading to the bearing since the brass pieces I made engage both inner and outer race at the same time from both sides and it just pulls the drive side in tight and even. regardless I'm gonna ride it a few hundred miles and I will pull the wheel and inspect for any bearing tightness or other weirdness just to make sure all is still well.
you now have a suitable press, congratulations. you will be amazed how many tools and jigs you fabricate just to maintain your bike.
 
Back
Top