Lights, dash but no spinny spinny.

Zanx

.020 Over
Joined
Jan 25, 2025
Messages
20
Ride
2004 R3
I'll throw myself at you collective mecies and see what happens. I got the 2004 ready for a map upgrade today but I pulled the wrong fuse, it wasn't the light fuse, it seemed to power the OBD cable because the light went out. Amyhoo. found the right fuse, connected to Tuneecu on my phone just fine, started the upload then lost connection, now it won't connect to Tuneecu or spin up on the started button (and I'm assuming the pump should make a sound too, which it doesn't). Battery is at 12.8v so pretty ****ed good. Would a suddent ignition switch failure disconnect the ECU, fuel pump and starter?
 
need more info
does gauges sweep?
with a 12 volt test light test all fuses on both sides. you have two fuses at the rear that are spares and will not check.
Would a sudden ignition switch failure disconnect the ECU, fuel pump and starter? (yes)
so would a blown fuse.
will brake light and horn work?
did you put the light fuse back in? that will cause your problems.
 
Hi, yes gauges sweep, lights on gauges all on. I have visually checked all the fuses but will run a meter over them tomorrow. Rear sidelight works, didn't check the brake or horn, again I'll do this tomorrow. I did put the light fuse back in. Thank you by the way, as long as I didn't fry the ECU somehow, I'm sure this won't be too hard to sort.
 
the ecu's are very good and will take most screw ups
it is easier to find the problem when it is acting up.
 
Ok, all fuses check out fine on the meter. Tuneecu seemed to be hunting for Bluetooth devices yesterday, I'll try again today with the BT off on the phone.
 
Right, checked voltages across all the active fuse terminals and all 12.4 to 12.6v except the headlight fuse, that's showing 6v. This isn't right, right? Horn, brake light, indicators all working, Tuneecu still not interested in connecting, getting as far as flashing yellow bar. So fuse 9 feeds the starter relay, if there's a low voltage coming into it, them am I right in thinking it feeds in directly from the notorious ignition switch which could be at fault?
 
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Your ignition barrel is probably the problem. Early models had a bad habit of desoldering the contacts. The early bikes have to be reprogrammed with a cable (assume you're using one) and should connect when prompted unless the connection is broken at the ignition switch.
 
Plugged the meter into fuse 9 and wiggled the key, settled on 5.5v till I waggled the key a bit, then it dropped to 4. something. Dunno, maybe I will try and jump it off my Noco next week and see how we go. The lights don't look like they are getting 6v, too bright.
 
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