Wunderkind Turn Signal Instalation

How did you get the top cover off before the Dremel work? I've unbolted the right and left side from below but the cover doesn't pop off real easily and I don't want to pry too hard in case there's something else holding it together.
 
Same.

Prefer the curved side-plate look, BUT, yet to find a factory/clean-looking aftermarket turn signal solution that is viable with the pannier bags mounted. For now, swapped in the motoism lights in factory locations (similar to the wunderkinds).
 
Junior said:
How did you get the top cover off before the Dremel work? I've unbolted the right and left side from below but the cover doesn't pop off real easily and I don't want to pry too hard in case there's something else holding it together.
Click to expand...
Oh silly you thought it would be that simple? You have to disassemble the entire unit, license plate and all, after you remove the aluminum arm holding everything. I unbolted it at the hub and let it rest on a padded support while doing the work. They could have made it easier but why would they do that! I suppose if you removed the rear wheel you wouldn't have to remove the arm.
 
What a pain in the arsch... For my particular problem (see below) I trimmed away the plastic conduit that was blocking the signal light from coming back straight. Now it comes back almost straight. I'll try a heat gun and a clamping contraption to see if I can get it to straighten itself all the way out. If that doesn't work I'll just glue it back straight. Not like the thing was ever serviceable to begin with, as your experience has made clear. So no harm in the permanency of gluing it.

 
These aftermarket signals seem to be very sensitive. I keep getting error messages along with hyper-flashing and the warmer it is the worse it gets. I'll have to take everything apart again, front and rear, and see if shortening the super thin leads and replacing with heftier ones will make a difference.
 
DO NOT USE THE INCLUDED SOLDER/HEAT SHRINK JOINTS!!!!!
Since I installed these a year and a half ago I've had intermittent gradually more frequent errors, then during my 7200mi x-country trip they only acted up twice. When I pulled the rear apart and cut those sleeves the solder was easily removed from the wire with my finger nail so these joints create a cold solder joint since the base metal (wire) never got heated for proper adhesion. In areas with higher humidity they worked because that was enough conductivity to satisfy the canbus and that also explains why during the winter when we actually do get some rain they worked more consistently. They would typically work in the morning but after that condensation is gone I'd get the same errors. After properly soldering the rear connections those are behaving and the front connections are getting fixed this weekend.
 
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