Wilbers competition 643 Install

atomsplitter said:

Makes me curious how much preload you had on the original unit. Your weight would suggest you needed to add some preload and probably back off the compression/rebound damping. My weight requires I add a LOT of preload and have NO compression/rebound damping. That's the way I set up the stock unit, and it has served adequately so far. I may upgrade the shock sometime in the future just to get a better spring rate, but so far it's held up to what I've asked from it without jolting my spine. I was out riding it last week and the ride was smooth over most surfaces. That said I did have to drop over $2K into my Bobber's suspension just so it wouldn't break my back or permanently damage spinal discs.

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Sparky59 said:

or get ahold of @Nashvegas & ask for his weight and settings and start there....

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Nashvegas said:

Yeah, I just went with the questionnaire and they set it at the factory. It’s been so good and I haven’t changed any settings.

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• Remove seat
• Remove RH side panel
  Remove battery
• Remove push pin on the relay holder that sits forward of the battery (explained by @Nashvegas)
• I used two looped together zip ties to move one of the wiring harnesses out of the way, it was covering the hole
• Then I removed the top shock bolt using the setup in the picture below: a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 3/8" adapter and a medium depth socket which was the perfect depth to get it in there and get completely on the nut.
• FYI the Torx is a T50
• I used all new hardware that I had ordered from AFI (bolts and nuts) as those are considered single use

camoto said:

OK did mine. It was a piece of cake, but I took a different path. There's a hole in the battery box that I think @Nashvegas used, I did the same thing but I didn't undo anything with the tank. I was going to try the wrench method that @rick danger used but after a few minutes of fiddling around and realizing I was going to have to do all of that blind on reinstall I gave up on it. Here are the basics of what I did:

• Remove seat
• Remove RH side panel
  Remove battery
• Remove push pin on the relay holder that sits forward of the battery (explained by @Nashvegas)
• I used two looped together zip ties to move one of the wiring harnesses out of the way, it was covering the hole
• Then I removed the top shock bolt using the setup in the picture below: a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 3/8" adapter and a medium depth socket which was the perfect depth to get it in there and get completely on the nut.
• FYI the Torx is a T50
• I used all new hardware that I had ordered from AFI (bolts and nuts) as those are considered single use

I did not have any rubbing or clearance issues with the reservoir. Also to the people questioning this-- when you're at the far end of the adjustments and the ride cannot be further improved, the suspension is not adequate or not set up properly. This is fairly common because manufacturers love to save money. Also, just because the shock looks the same doesn't mean it's even remotely close to the same capability.

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eka said:

I ordered with 15mm height adjustment and after about 20 000km the preload hose broke. I think it was a bit too short for that and stressed too much. They made me a bit longer hose in factory. I also have 100Nm spring insteadt of original 80Nm. They can also adjust manually preload area for hydraulic screw, but the spring has to be off then. Mine has now 100Nm spring and that manual preload is also tightened about 5mm. Also when they changed the hose, they made full service for the schock with oil change and seals etc. I also asked to take away that useless toolbox and it is now super easy to adjust rebound. Now the schock is perfect from solo ride to two up and luggages full. Original schock was really the worst i have had in any bike in this millenium.





One connector had to be fixed away from toolbox.

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