What have you done to your R3T lately

[Wdugan9080]

First got her shinning like glass, w/black that's hard to do, used the chemical guys Hydro ciramic line, check out the videos on how to prep and apply for the ciramic coating, it says it will last a year for normal weathering, hopefully mine doesn't see too much bad weather cause I put 4 coat's on it and expect more than a year, I wouldn't do more than 2 coat's, leaves more chances for mistakes, put it on really thin or else it streaks and you get like fisheyes if it's too heavy and I here it's hard to get off, takes 3 hours between coats, so you don't have much time to fix a streak, I hear once it cure's it takes a long time to get it off. But it doesn't fill in any imperfections so prep it good, I got a lot of compliments on it after. I'm going to try the Nano 9H I bought 3 bottles already, next year, any thoughts on that, anybody use it yet???
got the Lonelec cable from lonelec and USB-C OTC adapter for tuneECU from Google store, working very well. the 20368.hex installed, Seem's rich, just adjusted TPS, and Secondary TPS, and Idle stepper motor, sprayed some cleaners in map sensor, and TB cleaning, and ran fuel injector cleaner thru 18 gal's of gas 1oz/gallon at a time, runs fine, just doesn't seem to have the power a 2.3L motor should, won't break the tire loose without dropping the clutch, didn't try that yet, not that I want to, just thought that big of a motor would.

Just getting back into Riding after about 35 year's, got rid of the X, time to do what I want to do .

When I was looking I googled what's the biggest production motor made and it showed me the Rocket on YouTube going 150mph from 55 pulling away from a Hayabusa, so I thought cool, then I looked for a used one and there weren't too many out there, came up with the R3T, at first I was looking for any cruiser with the bag's and all BMW, Honda, HD,Kaw, Glad I found this, found out a lot of info in here, like the recall on Bridgestone Exedra Max tire's in 09' on the touring, the guy who sold me the bike gave me a Bias Exedra tire for the front it already had that tire in radial on the back, so I called Bridgestone and they told me they don't make a tire for that bike, I didn't ask any questions and he didn't offer any answers, also when I was looking for a tire online the only tire for the rear size in Bridgestone is a radial, the guy already had a worn out Metzeler Bias me888 on the front and the radial on the back, not good to mix those, I wouldn't even mix manufacturers, I thought it felt a little weird on the test drive, then once I got it home and got it on the road, NJ DMV S**** I found out it had 22psi in the front and 26psi in the rear!!!, Rode a lot better with the right pressure, I put 36 front and 42 rear, ride's like a dream now, I even asked the guy if he felt a wobble going around corners and I only took it up to 45mph. GL

 

[Wdugan9080]

First got her shinning like glass, w/black that's hard to do, used the chemical guys Hydro ciramic line, check out the videos on how to prep and apply for the ciramic coating, it says it will last a year for normal weathering, hopefully mine doesn't see too much bad weather cause I put 4 coat's on it and expect more than a year, I wouldn't do more than 2 coat's, leaves more chances for mistakes, put it on really thin or else it streaks and you get like fisheyes if it's too heavy and I here it's hard to get off, takes 3 hours between coats, so you don't have much time to fix a streak, I hear once it cure's it takes a long time to get it off. But it doesn't fill in any imperfections so prep it good, I got a lot of compliments on it after. I'm going to try the Nano 9H I bought 3 bottles already, next year, any thoughts on that, anybody use it yet???
got the Lonelec cable from lonelec and USB-C OTC adapter for tuneECU from Google store, working very well. the 20368.hex installed, Seem's rich, just adjusted TPS, and Secondary TPS, and Idle stepper motor, sprayed some cleaners in map sensor, and TB cleaning, and ran fuel injector cleaner thru 18 gal's of gas 1oz/gallon at a time, runs fine, just doesn't seem to have the power a 2.3L motor should, won't break the tire loose without dropping the clutch, didn't try that yet, not that I want to, just thought that big of a motor would.

Just getting back into Riding after about 35 year's, got rid of the X, time to do what I want to do .

When I was looking I googled what's the biggest production motor made and it showed me the Rocket on YouTube going 150mph from 55 pulling away from a Hayabusa, so I thought cool, then I looked for a used one and there weren't too many out there, came up with the R3T, at first I was looking for any cruiser with the bag's and all BMW, Honda, HD,Kaw, Glad I found this, found out a lot of info in here, like the recall on Bridgestone Exedra Max tire's in 09' on the touring, the guy who sold me the bike gave me a Bias Exedra tire for the front it already had that tire in radial on the back, so I called Bridgestone and they told me they don't make a tire for that bike, I didn't ask any questions and he didn't offer any answers, also when I was looking for a tire online the only tire for the rear size in Bridgestone is a radial, the guy already had a worn out Metzeler Bias me888 on the front and the radial on the back, not good to mix those, I wouldn't even mix manufacturers, I thought it felt a little weird on the test drive, then once I got it home and got it on the road, NJ DMV S**** I found out it had 22psi in the front and 26psi in the rear!!!, Rode a lot better with the right pressure, I put 36 front and 42 rear, ride's like a dream now, I even asked the guy if he felt a wobble going around corners and I only took it up to 45mph. GL

Did the front brakes they really needed it, almost down to the rivits, man was that easy, going to do the rear next week, not as bad, I saw on YouTube a guy did it without taking the caliper off, I'm probably going to have the tires off this weekend so!!! got the pads on eBay for about $30 front and rear total, front organic working good, rear ceramic made by Sixity made in China, the OME pads were about $140 total, and the shop wanted $350 to do it, changed the front fluid, going to do the rear, used Prestone dot 4 synthetic, changed the gear oil in final drive, that's really easy, didn't even take the silencer off just unbolted from the pillon bracket and dropped it down, I don't think it ever was done, has 44,000 miles on it, I had to hammer the ratchet to loosen the drain plug and man that stuff was as Black as the bike and smelled like regular gear oil, I bought a gallon of Mobil delvac fully synthetic hypoid gear oil 75-90w, the only place I could find a quart was Walmart delivery only, no in store pickup, got the gallon on Amazon $53, for about the price of 2 quart's at Walmart, googled the recommended mobilube shc fully synthetic hypoid gear oil and nothing came up, went to Mobil website and couldn't find it, man they have a lot of different oils. Called the dealership and they said they use Motul 75-90W V-Twin synthetic gear oil, read on here someone called Mobil and they recommended the Delvac, it's used in semi trucks transmission and rear, I read a review on Amazon a guy put it in his porche and it shifed easier and smoother, I think me drive is quieter and smoother, not that it was really bad just feels like less vibration in floor boards at low rpm's. It's a clear/yellowish color, with a gallon I can change it 21 time's, only holds like 6 oz's, going to do it again probably next weekend with about 500 miles cause it was so dirty and I'm not sure what kind was in there. Got a hex socket set metric/SAE on Amazon work's really good, already lost the 3mm behind the oil tank, I lost the coolant bleed screw back there too, tried a magnet and found out it's not magnetic, tried a hanger couldn't find it wasted like 2 hours trying to get it, the socket is magnetic, wasted about an hour on that, in going to take the throttle bodies off Saturday and get them, I bought a new bleeder bolt but I really want that socket plus I already have the intake off. LEXIVON Master HEX Bit Socket... Amazon.com: LEXIVON Master HEX Bit Socket Set, Premium S2 Alloy Steel | Complete 32-Piece, SAE and Metric Set | Enhanced Storage Case (LX-144): Automotive and don't forget the pump the one I bought didn't exactly fit the threads the cap, but it pumped it in I just can't store it with the pump on the jug, which I probably wouldn't anyway but here it is Slippery Pete Fluid Pump for Gallon Bottles and Wide Mouth Quart Bottles - Transfer Gear Oil, Transmission and Differential Fluid, Antifreeze with This 30cc Hand Pump Amazon.com: Slippery Pete Fluid Pump for Gallon Bottles and Wide Mouth Quart Bottles - Transfer Gear Oil, Transmission and Differential Fluid, Antifreeze with This 30cc Hand Pump: Automotive

 

[Wdugan9080]

Did the front brakes they really needed it, almost down to the rivits, man was that easy, going to do the rear next week, not as bad, I saw on YouTube a guy did it without taking the caliper off, I'm probably going to have the tires off this weekend so!!! got the pads on eBay for about $30 front and rear total, front organic working good, rear ceramic made by Sixity made in China, the OME pads were about $140 total, and the shop wanted $350 to do it, changed the front fluid, going to do the rear, used Prestone dot 4 synthetic, changed the gear oil in final drive, that's really easy, didn't even take the silencer off just unbolted from the pillon bracket and dropped it down, I don't think it ever was done, has 44,000 miles on it, I had to hammer the ratchet to loosen the drain plug and man that stuff was as Black as the bike and smelled like regular gear oil, I bought a gallon of Mobil delvac fully synthetic hypoid gear oil 75-90w, the only place I could find a quart was Walmart delivery only, no in store pickup, got the gallon on Amazon $53, for about the price of 2 quart's at Walmart, googled the recommended mobilube shc fully synthetic hypoid gear oil and nothing came up, went to Mobil website and couldn't find it, man they have a lot of different oils. Called the dealership and they said they use Motul 75-90W V-Twin synthetic gear oil, read on here someone called Mobil and they recommended the Delvac, it's used in semi trucks transmission and rear, I read a review on Amazon a guy put it in his porche and it shifed easier and smoother, I think me drive is quieter and smoother, not that it was really bad just feels like less vibration in floor boards at low rpm's. It's a clear/yellowish color, with a gallon I can change it 21 time's, only holds like 6 oz's, going to do it again probably next weekend with about 500 miles cause it was so dirty and I'm not sure what kind was in there. Got a hex socket set metric/SAE on Amazon work's really good, already lost the 3mm behind the oil tank, I lost the coolant bleed screw back there too, tried a magnet and found out it's not magnetic, tried a hanger couldn't find it wasted like 2 hours trying to get it, the socket is magnetic, wasted about an hour on that, in going to take the throttle bodies off Saturday and get them, I bought a new bleeder bolt but I really want that socket plus I already have the intake off. LEXIVON Master HEX Bit Socket... Amazon.com: LEXIVON Master HEX Bit Socket Set, Premium S2 Alloy Steel | Complete 32-Piece, SAE and Metric Set | Enhanced Storage Case (LX-144): Automotive and don't forget the pump the one I bought didn't exactly fit the threads the cap, but it pumped it in I just can't store it with the pump on the jug, which I probably wouldn't anyway but here it is Slippery Pete Fluid Pump for Gallon Bottles and Wide Mouth Quart Bottles - Transfer Gear Oil, Transmission and Differential Fluid, Antifreeze with This 30cc Hand Pump Amazon.com: Slippery Pete Fluid Pump for Gallon Bottles and Wide Mouth Quart Bottles - Transfer Gear Oil, Transmission and Differential Fluid, Antifreeze with This 30cc Hand Pump: Automotive

Changed and flushed the coolant system, put Peak Final Charge Global 50/50 mix, it meets the specifications, it's an OAT formula, okay for aluminum. Should have been really quick and easy till I dropped the bleeder bolt putting it back in, the next bolt I put some clay bar in the socket and put it in, definitely do that!!!

Got the Mobil 1 4T 10-40w fully synthetic racing oil, Triumph recommended it in my manual, API SH And JASO MA. Approved, and the triumph filter at advance auto, 25% off, sign up and they give you a code for discount 20 or 25% off, but you have to buy it online and can pick it up at the store, or Free shipping same day, orders over $75 I think. I'll probably wait till the end of season to change it, the last owner said he changed it last fall, Mobil 1 but not sure if he used the full synthetic 4T, it seems to be running good.

I bought the NGK Iridium plugs there too, going to put them in when I get it tuned right, might have to take it in and get it tuned, if I do that I want to get the de-cat crossover pipe first, and also wanted to run the injector cleaner thru first.

The guy had the forks serviced in 2016, I think new seals and oil. He put new shock's on the back, custom seat, has a little abrasion discoloration going to take it to the local shoe leather shop and see if they can refinish it, not really bad. I was going to do it myself with furniture clinic dye, but figured I'd let someone with experience do it if it's not too much more.

Researched aluminum polish for the rims and found Gords on YouTube, looks like the easiest way, going to have to take the wheels off and rotors, got a lot of buffing pads and the 0000 steel wool and red shop rags, going to try to get them to shine they're just dull right now with some black spots here and there I will post a before and after shot, hopefully get to it next week.

I picked the tank up and didn't disconnect the battery so when I disconnected the speedometer instruments it must have fried the speed sensor pulling it out and plugging it in, when I started it the MIL light was on threw 2 codes P1690 can bus communication error and P0500 speed sensor fault, and the speedometer, fuel gauge, didn't work, odometer didn't count, or the trip meters and the signals didn't self cancel. Got a speed sensor on eBay from pinwall for $50 used, what a pain to run the wire up, but put it in everything worked but the clock and Trip meters would reset everytime I shut it off, so I figured it was the constant voltage to the instruments with the key off, the purple wire, had voltage all the way to before the connection, probed into the wire at the connection and it fell off, couldn't get it out so I pried it open and cleaned it and stuck the wire in and crimped it best I could with the probe, it works put a lot of dielectric grease on it and a bunch of other connectors I disconnected. Found a good way to clean connectors on YouTube

Fast and easy but make sure you disconnect the battery first I walked away and let it soak for about a half hour in the vinegar salt solution and heat the water in the microwave first I did a Solo cup for 45 seconds.

 

[Wdugan9080]

Changed and flushed the coolant system, put Peak Final Charge Global 50/50 mix, it meets the specifications, it's an OAT formula, okay for aluminum. Should have been really quick and easy till I dropped the bleeder bolt putting it back in, the next bolt I put some clay bar in the socket and put it in, definitely do that!!!

Got the Mobil 1 4T 10-40w fully synthetic racing oil, Triumph recommended it in my manual, API SH And JASO MA. Approved, and the triumph filter at advance auto, 25% off, sign up and they give you a code for discount 20 or 25% off, but you have to buy it online and can pick it up at the store, or Free shipping same day, orders over $75 I think. I'll probably wait till the end of season to change it, the last owner said he changed it last fall, Mobil 1 but not sure if he used the full synthetic 4T, it seems to be running good.

I bought the NGK Iridium plugs there too, going to put them in when I get it tuned right, might have to take it in and get it tuned, if I do that I want to get the de-cat crossover pipe first, and also wanted to run the injector cleaner thru first.

The guy had the forks serviced in 2016, I think new seals and oil. He put new shock's on the back, custom seat, has a little abrasion discoloration going to take it to the local shoe leather shop and see if they can refinish it, not really bad. I was going to do it myself with furniture clinic dye, but figured I'd let someone with experience do it if it's not too much more.

Researched aluminum polish for the rims and found Gords on YouTube, looks like the easiest way, going to have to take the wheels off and rotors, got a lot of buffing pads and the 0000 steel wool and red shop rags, going to try to get them to shine they're just dull right now with some black spots here and there I will post a before and after shot, hopefully get to it next week.

I picked the tank up and didn't disconnect the battery so when I disconnected the speedometer instruments it must have fried the speed sensor pulling it out and plugging it in, when I started it the MIL light was on threw 2 codes P1690 can bus communication error and P0500 speed sensor fault, and the speedometer, fuel gauge, didn't work, odometer didn't count, or the trip meters and the signals didn't self cancel. Got a speed sensor on eBay from pinwall for $50 used, what a pain to run the wire up, but put it in everything worked but the clock and Trip meters would reset everytime I shut it off, so I figured it was the constant voltage to the instruments with the key off, the purple wire, had voltage all the way to before the connection, probed into the wire at the connection and it fell off, couldn't get it out so I pried it open and cleaned it and stuck the wire in and crimped it best I could with the probe, it works put a lot of dielectric grease on it and a bunch of other connectors I disconnected. Found a good way to clean connectors on YouTube

Fast and easy but make sure you disconnect the battery first I walked away and let it soak for about a half hour in the vinegar salt solution and heat the water in the microwave first I did a Solo cup for 45 seconds.

I polished the back rim today, started about 2 in the afternoon and finished about 5:30, - 1 hr break in-between, so it took me 2.5 hrs just to polish the 1 wheel not counting removing it, that took about 2 hrs cause I stripped 1 of the hex head bolt for the brake disk to get it off, luckily it was out enough to cut the edges off 2 sides and get a 12mm wrench on it, now I have to find a new bolt, hope they aren't discontinued, 1 website said they are, and another says they are available, but that doesn't always mean they are available I found out with the windscreen lock, discontinued can't get it anywhere, not even a used one.
Well I think Gords aluminum polish did fairly good, not perfect, it still has some faint spots I'm sure I could have gotten out with some wet sand paper, maybe start with 1000 grit and work down to 6000, would probably make it perfect, but I was done for the day, maybe I'll stop tonight and get some, I didn't have any, but here's what it looks like after 2 to 3 hrs.
A very big difference, I used these buffing Wheels I got on Amazon, Car Buffers and Polishers Kit for Drill, 14Pcs Drill Polishing Wheel Foam Ball Buffing Pads Sponge Ball for Automotive Car Wheels Hub Care, Metal, Plastic, Ceramic and Glass worked very good, perfect size, probably should have used them from the beginning, I used a cordless drill driver with them, I started with the 0000 steel wool, wet the wheel with the soaked steel wool, let it soak for a few minutes, and rub the heavy corrosion off. Then clean it with the shop towels after it dries, at least that's what I did, a few times then I used the buffing Wheels, I even used a Dremel type tool to get in the holes. GL hope it lasts a long long time

 

[Tripps]

Me, I thought about my R3T sitting in the barn in Florida, 1500 miles away.

 

[Dr.D]

Two years after my big polish with little touch up a couple months ago on a 2014 Roadster.

 

[Wdugan9080]

Two years after my big polish with little touch up a couple months ago on a 2014 Roadster.

What do you use to touch it up, looks like it did a great job!!! Did you see the before pic's on mine close up we are talking Black

 

[Kevin frazier]

cleaned up

 

[Wdugan9080]

cleaned up

What did you use?? How long did it take??

 

[Kevin frazier]

What did you use?? How long did it take??

Sand paper, whatever takes off the finish, 300 maybe then 500 then 700 you will see your scratches change as you go up, i had to go about 2500 i think and now its just 0000(4) steel wool and i use some polish from Germany aerosol maybe but with 0000 steel wool you really need nothing, just wash dry hit with 0000 steel wool wipe buff clean and its back to mirror finish like after the sanding, oh how long, felt like two weeks a couple hours a day, painful but worth it because now im always fresh and clean