spark plug replacement

Replacing plugs for the first time. I cannot find anything in my service manual. Do you use anti-seize on the threads and boot protector when replacing the plugs. Also, need a page number from service manual. I have taken #6 plug wire off of plug and off of coil.
I don't like the way the coil wire fits into coil. The way it connects. Seems a little cheap.

thanks

markc

Don't put anti-seize on the plug end, use dielectric grease if you use anything. Just a small amount of anti-seize around the threads will do just fine. I use the copper base high temp and it seems to work pretty good. I would not have taken the wire off the coil end. Don't know what to tell ya there!

jetdok5 said:

Don't put anti-seize on the plug end, use dielectric grease if you use anything. Just a small amount of anti-seize around the threads will do just fine. I use the copper base high temp and it seems to work pretty good. I would not have taken the wire off the coil end. Don't know what to tell ya there!

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It was easier to get the plug wire off of the plug with the coil end off. Any page numbers in the service manual that references changing the plugs. Gap, torque ect. I know to use boot protector on the boots. I buy the little packs at autozone.

i got some iridium plugs for mine, have to install them yet.
they are 7s, just like the manual says. what confuses me though is why all the retailers are selling iridium 8s for rockets.
unless iridium 8s are the equivalent of standard issue 7s

The plug wires will pull straight up, you don't need to disconnect them from the coils. When you install the new plugs you don't need thread lube, thats why there's a washer on the plug, to prevent over-torque and seizing. I used a 12mm allen key on the provided spark plug socket in the tool kit and used bent nose pliers to extract the plugs from the recesses. To install I used the pliers to lower the plug into place, put the socket over it, spun the plug in the 'out' direction (left) to find the thread seat then screwed them in by hand. You can use a torque wrench and tighten to specification, or use 'hand tight' with a short handle allen key, you won't over torque the threads.

If you put too much torque on the spark plug you'll know by the socket wrench breaking into small unuseable pieces (pot metal is great for limiting torque values and its cheaper than dirt (wait, it is dirt, never mind)). As long as you don't over tighten the plugs you won't distort the plug gap. Since the engine compression is about 8.5:1 you'll have a hard time launching them out of their holes under normal operating conditions.

Bottom line, don't fiddle the coils and don't make the job harder than it is. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to replace all 6 plugs (add a few minutes to raise and lower the tank).

I just removed the two little bolts that held the whole coil pack on, that let me move things around enough to the plug wires around and out of the hole.