Running lean after supercharger and tune

[Basicguy3]

I'm really scratching my head on this one, I feel like I already tried everything.
I threw the TTS Stage 1 supercharger on my 06 Rocket Classic maybe 3 months ago and had it dyno tuned at a shop. It worked great for a while, maybe 10-20 rides. Maybe a running a little on the rich side, but I told the tuner to guy to give it a safe tune. On a bit of a more spirited ride I noticed a bit of dead spot appear somewhere around 50-60% throttle above 4k rpm and my amazon wideband gauge confirmed I was running lean. The problem seemed to worsen and affect lower rpm's/throttle % until I pulled off and let the bike cool down for a bit. The problem went away for the rest of the ride until I was nearly home when any touch of the throttle seemed to push my afr's past 16. I let the bike cool down and it ran fine for the short test ride after. Since then it's worsened to the point that I can't touch the throttle or it'll lean out and stall.

My initial thought was that the fuel pump was going out or TPS was giving incorrect readings which seems to have been ruled out. Second thought was that the injectors were giving out at high duty cycles which they seem to work fine on a bench test and i still have the problem after a cold start.

Things I've tried:
- Install inline fuel pressure guage - appears to hold 42psi even when the bike leans out
- install new primary TPS & recalibrate iscv - seems to give a more consistent reading
- redneck injector flow test (run fuel pump apply power to the injectors and spray into water bottles) - all injectors appear to have a decent spray pattern and seemed to fill the bottles at a similar rate
- increase the fueling at low rpms/throttle% up about 15% - didn't seem to change much still leaned out/ran rough with throttle input.

Possibly related things/thoughts:
- I was having issues last year with the iscv and unplugged it then and set the idle with the set screw. (so no ISCV right now except for using it to do the ISCV reset) not sure if it was necessary
- fuel pressure guage is from oreilly's so it could be a cheapo? - seems like I wouldn't have 42psi if it didn't work.
- inline guage tee restricts fuel flow a bit. I had a chance to ride the bike with the gauge before the problem really set in and it seemed to work fine.
- AFR guage giving incorrect readings? - it's a cheap amazon one, but it seems to reflect how the bike runs/idles pretty well.
- The tune switches over from MAP sensor based to throttle % based at 2% throttle. - seemed to work before, also seems to rule out vaccuum leaks?
- Blowoff valve stuck? - doesn't seem like it would affect higher rpms when i'm on the throttle

Does anyone see any holes in this? My only thought at this point is possibly a bad ECU. I do have TuneEcu to try things out.

 

[wjb]

I memory serves, TTS has their own tune for their products. Have you run their tune to see if that would take care of it? Swapping tunes is pretty easy, might be worth a shot.
You are right to make it a priority to sort this out because lean fuel ratio plus boost equals piston melt down.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

What did you do with the MAP sensor, when installing TTS stuff?

 

[Basicguy3]

I used TTS’s tune to get the bike, but I had to tweak it quite a bit to get the bike running right. I forgot to mention I do have the Jardines exhaust, which probably had something to do with that. I should give it a shot though just to make sure.

 

[Basicguy3]

What did you do with the MAP sensor, when installing TTS stuff?

It’s still connected, and I believe all the right tubes go to the correct throttle bodies. The spare vacuum ports are plugged except one which routes to the blowoff valve. Could be worth a double check.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

If the stock MAP sensor is still connected, it might be bangjaxed from the boost and causing the fuelling issue.
Did the kit come with instructions - anything on what to do with the MAP sensor?

 

[Kevin frazier]

Since you had a dyno tune done, why do you have amazon 02 sensor hooked up? Ecu making fueling changes has probably messed up your dyno tune. Just a thought

 

[Basicguy3]

I didn’t get any instructions with the kit, I just followed the write up I found on here and it all seemed to work. If anyone has proper instructions, that could be helpful.

The Amazon wideband is its own separate system and I left the stock O2 disconnected with the hope that the ecu wouldn’t try to make fueling changes. Would it be wise to reconnect this?

I’m hoping I’ll have some time this afternoon or tomorrow to dig into all this and let everyone know how it goes.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

I didn’t get any instructions with the kit, I just followed the write up I found on here and it all seemed to work. If anyone has proper instructions, that could be helpful.

The Amazon wideband is its own separate system and I left the stock O2 disconnected with the hope that the ecu wouldn’t try to make fueling changes. Would it be wise to reconnect this?

I’m hoping I’ll have some time this afternoon or tomorrow to dig into all this and let everyone know how it goes.

Good the write up on here helped, that's what it's there for.

The guide from my day (2016) just said to remove the MAP sensor and live with the check-engine light. I didn't like that, not a great solution. Figured out how to wire in & map a suitable (2.5 bar - the stock one is a little over 1 bar iirc so not suitable for any serious boost) MAP sensor instead.

You could try removing the sensor, blank off the tubes, just to test if it makes a difference to your problem (it will throw a fault code but bike should still run OK at least enough for a test).

Disconnecting the stock O2 is fine, as long as the box is unchecked in the ECU map - do you know if your map is set right like this?
(if box is ticked, with sensor removed, this will cause problems)
Alternatively, if you don't / can't edit the map, you can get an O2 sensor blanking plug (basically a blank plug cap with a resistor in it) which effectively does the same thing.