Reset ISCV in Tuneboy

Anybody do the ISCV reset in Tuneboy?

I found that by clicking reset ISCV on the bottom of the sensors screen that the voltage reading for the primary TPS is real time rather than updating every 15 seconds or so. There is also scrolling instructions on the bottom of the screen that is a four step process.

Step 1. Click reset ISCV and adjust TPS sensor until a voltage reading of .60 is obtained.

Step 2. Click ISCV again and you should observe a .12 increase in the TPS reading. So if it was .60 then it should be .72, if not adjust the TPS until the reading is .12 above what you set it at in Step 1.

I did this and got mixed results. When the TPS was set at .60 I would get readings of .705 in Step 2. If I adjusted it to .720 readings in later steps would not be in the range required in the service manual (.60 +-.02 volts).

Step 3. Click ISCV again and scrolling instructions say not to touch anything for 15 sec. The voltage should return to .60.

If I did adjust the voltage in Step 2 to .720 then it would return to .650 or higher. If I did not adjust the voltage in Step 2 and let it be at .705 or so it would return to .60.

Step 4. Click the reset adaptions button.

After doing this my TPS voltage would be anywhere from .685 to .700. I repeated Steps 1 through 3 and skipped 4 and the voltage was .645. (It was .650 when I started)

So I ended up just setting the voltage as in Step 1 without going through the other steps. Anyway it resides in the range prescribed by Triumph and idles a little stronger.

Anyone else try this and have better results???? Or is it just me???? I had the ignition on, bike not running and a battery charger hooked up to maintain battery voltage (which can also be observed on Tuneboy sensors page).

I'm going to have to "subscribe to this thread" to have this as well as any and all other aspects of TuneBoy tuning details available.

Thanks B., keep up the good work. Sycophants are depending on you

I'm somewhat baffled...

Why is it that when you guys install a PC or a Tuneboy, your mileage goes in the dumper? I'd think that by custom tailoring the engine management system for more efficiency, you'd achieve a better mpg figure but the opposite is always true, the mpg drops. That don't make sense to me. A more efficient, cleaner burining engine should equate to less fuel used per mile and it don't.

Of course I'm easily confused.....

My mileage hasn't gone into the dumper, I have consistantly gotten in the low to mid 30's.

Load a new tune or add a PCIII; you are adding more fuel to run richer and on top of that you want to sample some of that additional power so you open it up a little more. When you add devices like that you don't tune for economy you tune for performance. Get a Tuneboy Flip and I'll put together a tune that will get you 40 mpg no problem.

I might do that after a number of items have exited my shop.......

I'm at .62 and have had no problems. The manual claims the bike can be + or - .02 of .60.

So far as the performance / loss of mileage issue, I hear what Sidecar is saying. My mileage has dropped since adding a host of mods along with a Tuneboy and PC III. I haven't done an official math estimate, but I wouldn't think paying for the miles lost adds up to more than a couple hundred dollars a year.

And if I ever wonder if a smoother throttle, better-performing engine (especially at low to mid RPMs), and a cooler engine (especially at low to mid RPMs) is worth it a couple hundred dollars a year, I get on the bike and remind myself of the answer. :bch:

I used to ***** about the mileage as well. I took off the PC for a while but soon realized the improved riding characteristics more than made up for the lost fuel economy. I know some on this board are the "Fuzz" but I commute down I-95 typically 80-90MPH at 5:15 in the morning so I am getting crap for fuel mileage anyway .

PS. I have the Tuneboy on as well now. The TB and PC together make for a bike I can spin the rear tire in gears 1 through 3. I don't do it intentionally mind you cause that is just waisting money in my book!

I hear what you are all saying but you keep adding power and torque and that equates to heat which is dissipated by the radiator and the drive line. What I think about is the final drive. That little bit of synthetic hypoid oil has to work harder and harder back there. With so little volume, a quart of Mobil synthetic hypoid lubricant will last a lifetime.