Rear Wheel Bearing Frozen?

[RockOn]

I've dismounted the rear wheel on my '06 Classic in order to replace the worn out tire. The two bearings on the drive side, one on top of the other, spin freely. The bearing on the brake rotor side does not spin freely. I repacked the bearing with synthetic grease in hopes it might break free and spin but the inner race still wouldn't budge. In an attempt to get the race moving I wedged a tapered knife blade into the race and with much force I can spin the race 360 degrees in both directions. Then with a flashlight I noticed the axle sleeve/spacer running through the wheel turns with the race as I turn it. This sleeve does not turn when I turn the bearings on the opposite end of the sleeve, the drive side. So, I know from forum searches this is not an uncommon occurrence. Apparently, most guys who encounter this problem replace the bearing. I see several different theories about why this happens to this bearing: "Torque spec of 81 ft. lbs. is too high on the axle nut", for just one example. Not knowing squat about bearings or how that sleeve through the wheel should operate in conjunction with the bearings, I'd appreciate any thoughts/suggestions/experience about this situation. I hesitate to remove the bearing and replace with a new one, especially after reading posts about how much difficulty members have had doing it. Is a new bearing going to operate correctly? For how long? I ask because many members apparently discover their frozen bearing operates perfectly after it is removed. Why bother replacing with a new one if the old one operates perfectly when out of the wheel? I am confused by this. Thoughts please. Thanks.

 

[Journeyman]

If it’s not moving I’d replace it. Did so just recently, but as usual it spun fine outside the wheel. Since there is no real way of knowing it’s like insurance. Last time I put in the special Japanese bearings, I believe that some users said were superior and have backed off the torque on the axle. Last tire change tight again, but at least they turn. Wish someone smarter would figure it out for us.

 

[RockOn]

Well, coming from you, a person I know isn't ever inclined to sling out BS guess work, I will follow your lead and replace. Can you give me a lead/link to the, " the special Japanese bearings, I believe that some users said were superior...."? Thanks J.

 

[Kevin frazier]

WHEEL BEARINGS - THE DOPE

Some more dope: Thanks to simplifying ordering replacemenslts by 10lbull, the Nachis I listed earlier have arrived. All marked as manufactured in Japan, the 20x47x14 size has a few options at vxb.com, the Nachis with red seals seem to be the most highly regarded and are what I ordered. Time...

www.r3owners.net

 

[sonny]

Back off the torque on the axle after replacing the bearings. Notice i said bearings. 70 ft lbs will work. These are sealed bearings. Sealed bearings means you do not add grease. I usually replace all three recommended bearing when i hit about 20,000. Having a bearing failure on a bike wheel is no fun. One of the most important and critical things to remember is using the proper tools for removal and installation requires the proper tools. Use makeshift backwoods techniques and tools will spell disaster. PM me if your interested. Might know i thing or to. 98,000 on a harley fatboy never seen a shop. Rocket X 68,000 and never seen a shop. Guess what still here typing.

 

[Gregger]

My comments

At 81 ft/lbs of rear axle torque, the rotor wheel bearing appears to always feel tight (Not sure if this is an issue??). Why so much torque? I think this high amount is needed to compress the cush drive rubber between the final drive and wheel. I have tried several lower torque settings (along with multiple bearing sets) over several thousand kilometers trying to get rid of an annoying clicking sound (Another story). With the lower torque value I have noticed that the rotor side bearing remains loose/smooth like new but causes another problem. It appears when a lower torque value is used, there isn't enough preload on the cush drive resulting in my center wheel bearing eventually spinning in the bore of the rim. The center bearing outer race ends up having a slip fit in the wheel. To fix this I replaced all the bearings with Nachi premium ones. The slip fit in the center bearing was fixed using Loctite 638 to prevent the outer race from spinning in the rim. The rotor bearing that is prone to feeling tight after being torqued to 81 ft/lbs, appears to be designed to take some side load. With this in mind, I retorqued the axle to Triumph spec several thousand kilometers ago with no issues. We will see if the bearing is tight next tire change.

I really wonder if the bearing becoming tight is an issue because as soon as it is knocked out of the rim, it feels fine. vxb.com is where a number of us purchased ours. The C3 bearings have a higher load rating. You would need 1 of each bearing listed below for the rear wheel.

 

[TURBO200R4]

JMO
I think that not being able to turn with your finger is not a problem.
Sealed bearings with grease will have
a drag to them because they r turning in grease. If u can spin freely that bearing then the grease is gone and the bearing needs replaced.
My bearings dont turn with finger.
I guess if u r worried then put the shaft through and try to see if u have any roughness by putting pressure on it.
Any roughness then it needs replaced.

 

[Journeyman]

JMO
I think that not being able to turn with your finger is not a problem.
Sealed bearings with grease will have
a drag to them because they r turning in grease. If u can spin freely that bearing then the grease is gone and the bearing needs replaced.
My bearings dont turn with finger.
I guess if u r worried then put the shaft through and try to see if u have any roughness by putting pressure on it.
Any roughness then it needs replaced.

But why then only the bearings on the brake disc side? The other ones, including on the front wheel do turn "freely" - yes, there is some drag. That rear one though, you often have to use a clean latex glove to get enough grab on it to turn and it's difficult , at best, or locked (until you remove it from the wheel).

 

[TURBO200R4]

One of them has a bouble row of bearings so it would be harder to turn
All that l know is if u take them out and they r good. Then why take them out?

 

[Chip]

JMO
I think that not being able to turn with your finger is not a problem.
Sealed bearings with grease will have
a drag to them because they r turning in grease. If u can spin freely that bearing then the grease is gone and the bearing needs replaced.
My bearings dont turn with finger.
I guess if u r worried then put the shaft through and try to see if u have any roughness by putting pressure on it.
Any roughness then it needs replaced.