PDM60 Techie question.

barbagris · Jun 20, 2015

How hot do they get in use? - Is heat-sinking advisable or even possible (I don't know if they have a metal case/back)

Can somebody also give me exact dimensions - I've found two differing sets of info.
Millimetres would be nice! - With and without mounting tabs if poss' please.

They're an option for my tilt lighting. But as I'll need 2 I want to know what I'm facing before splashing out.

Also I'm not too impressed by their earthing system - anybody improved upon it?

idk · Jun 20, 2015

@DEcosse is the bloke you need to speak to about that.

cr0ft · Jun 20, 2015

I decided to just run negative polarity cables straight to the battery for all the accessories for now instead of grounding them to the frame. Although I'm considering changing that up with some kind of junction block so I can go to a single cable to the battery from that and just connect everything to the block next to the PDM60.

No clue about heat but they have no way to dissipate heat. When you flip the box over, the contents are actually recessed into the plastic cover, so when you mount it flat, the internal components have air between themselves and the surface the devices is bolted to. I would assume that heat generation isn't an issue, from that.

The box appears to be 75 mm by 50 mm. With the mounting tabs sticking out under 10 mm (couldn't quite get at them to measure). Possibly something like 5 mm is more accurate.

barbagris · Jun 20, 2015

cr0ft said:
I decided to just run negative polarity cables straight to the battery for all the accessories for now instead of grounding them to the frame. Although I'm considering changing that up with some kind of junction block so I can go to a single cable to the battery from that and just connect everything to the block next to the PDM60..

Thanks for that. My idea for earthing is to mount the PDM60's to an alloy plate and tap M4 threads in to it as well to take existing ring terminals - then earth the plate.

Silli · Jun 20, 2015

I'd never heard of this gadget until now. Looks quite good!

cr0ft · Jun 20, 2015

barbagris said:
My idea for earthing is to mount the PDM60's to an alloy plate and tap M4 threads in to it as well to take existing ring terminals - then earth the plate.

Sounds like a great option. I was going to just ground my accessories to the frame but it seems a bit cavalier, plus D'Ecosse claims the frame isn't really used that way anymore, if I recall correctly from another thread. Anyway easy enough to ground items directly to the negative pole of the battery one way or the other.

Silli said:
I'd never heard of this gadget until now. Looks quite good!

Yep, it's not the cheapest option for connecting accessories but it is very nice. You can set up delays for firing some circuits up (useful if they draw lots of power and you want to save the battery for start up only at first), you can set up how much amperage you want on the lines, etc. Plus it handles up to 60 amps total which is quite a bit. And if you have a short, you no longer have to replace a fuse - just power the bike on/off and it resets the circuit if it was a momentary glitch.

Here's an analog variation that does about the same thing, but in more primitive form and for half the current (and half the money). http://www.fuzeblocks.com/ - should be a good way to hook up just a few accessories.

Silli · Jun 20, 2015

Thanks for that info and link.

Bedifferent · Jun 20, 2015

cr0ft said:
Sounds like a great option. I was going to just ground my accessories to the frame but it seems a bit cavalier, plus D'Ecosse claims the frame isn't really used that way anymore, if I recall correctly from another thread. Anyway easy enough to ground items directly to the negative pole of the battery one way or the other.

Yep, it's not the cheapest option for connecting accessories but it is very nice. You can set up delays for firing some circuits up (useful if they draw lots of power and you want to save the battery for start up only at first), you can set up how much amperage you want on the lines, etc. Plus it handles up to 60 amps total which is quite a bit. And if you have a short, you no longer have to replace a fuse - just power the bike on/off and it resets the circuit if it was a momentary glitch.

Here's an analog variation that does about the same thing, but in more primitive form and for half the current (and half the money). http://www.fuzeblocks.com/ - should be a good way to hook up just a few accessories.

When it comes to grounding, the Triumph manual makes at least two references to the frame ground. My belief is the frame ground still in play as there in no way the engine ground is isolated from the frame....with that said, I added a 6 gage ground wire from the battery to the frame and can ground to that connection if I like. If you have multiple grounds to hookup to your battery, my advice is to combine them to one heavy duty connection terminal and make sure you crimp and "solder" the terminal wires in the connector. Multiple battery connections on your battery can lead to issues as I recently observed on another persons bike. Twice his bike would not start because of multiple connections on his battery terminals. They tend to become lose over time. Limit your connections, crimp and solder them, and never ever rely on just crimped terminal connectors!! With all the environmental and vibration factors, I never just crimp.

Trirocket3 · Jun 20, 2015

idk said:
@DEcosse is the bloke you need to speak to about that.

Yes speak to Decosse (Ken) he is a good guy & really knows all this electricky stuff especially the pdm 60
he did some complicated sh*t for me I strongly recommend him.

albertaduke · Jun 20, 2015

cr0ft said:
Sounds like a great option. I was going to just ground my accessories to the frame but it seems a bit cavalier, plus D'Ecosse claims the frame isn't really used that way anymore, if I recall correctly from another thread. Anyway easy enough to ground items directly to the negative pole of the battery one way or the other.

Yep, it's not the cheapest option for connecting accessories but it is very nice. You can set up delays for firing some circuits up (useful if they draw lots of power and you want to save the battery for start up only at first), you can set up how much amperage you want on the lines, etc. Plus it handles up to 60 amps total which is quite a bit. And if you have a short, you no longer have to replace a fuse - just power the bike on/off and it resets the circuit if it was a momentary glitch.

Here's an analog variation that does about the same thing, but in more primitive form and for half the current (and half the money). http://www.fuzeblocks.com/ - should be a good way to hook up just a few accessories.

motogadget fromgermany makes a nice block as well I am going to replace the EB PC8 with motogadget block this winter

PDM60 Techie question.

barbagris

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idk

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Bedifferent

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Trirocket3

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PDM60 Techie question.

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