Just When She's Right...

Why is it that just when they're running perfect... something rains on the parade. I was jamming about the Virginia countryside back on Friday, reveling in a warm February day and fistfuls of torque. Like a beast at the top of the food chain, the roads of Central Virgina were mine... I feared no Jap junque. Full of satisfaction, I pulled back into the farm with a grin and complacency...

There on my left leg leather was a bit of oil. Not a lot, but enough to make me start looking. Lo and behold, checking the supercharger oil cooler, it was down by a couple ounces. How the hell did this happen? The cap wasn't loose. Refilling the cooler, I fired her up... no obvious leaks. Twisting the throttle, all became apparent... 2 FN pin holes in the front of the cooler pumping out traction fluid like a sliced carotid artery!

I don't know how it happened... there's no damage to the "stone screen" or any cooling fins. The ***** of it is the radiator shroulds and screen are not removable. I can access the tiny leaks through the screen only with fine rod or wire.

Anyway, I'm looking into aluminum cooler repair and found this link: http://www.muggyweld.com/aircharge.html

Any advice from those with experience in repairing aluminum coolers would be greatly appreciated.

http://hobbies-leisure.drleonards.com/Hobbies-Leisure/Home-Repair-Tools/Mighty-Putty/46999.cfm

You might try a radiator shop. They could also pressure test it.

It has been my experience that modern day radiator shops (if you can find one that is still in business) won't patch aluminum radiators, they want to re-core it or simply replace it from one from their wholesale division. I doubt a welding shop would touch it, they would be scared that they would blow a hole in it.

The Muggyweld looks interesting. I have silver soldered old brass radiators and it held up just fine. The surface pressures inside of a small tube like that are very small and it only takes a good clean repair to make it hold. Since yours is an oil cooler the oil itself may screw things up. I would give it a try however, since you can duplicate the leak, it would be easy to test your repair.

I've seen guys crimp off leaky tubes and it actually worked. I wouldn't do that to yours though, I would never trust it.

Thanks, guys.

I can't trust an epoxy or a crimped repair on this. I can just imagine the repair popping at 170+ MPH, spraying oil all over my front brakes, and trying to stop on Maxton's short shut down. If they knew I had such a "temporary" repair, I'd never pass tech inspection. In the words of the old Mexican donkey dealer, "Is your ass, Senor!"

If I can't find a professional shop that can (or wants) to tackle it, I'll try the Muggyweld Super Alloy 1 myself. Could be I'll be needing this skill if stones continue to penetrate my "stone guard" grill. Cleaning the oil from the pin holes is not a problem... just fill with trichlorethylene and pressurize.

man,
this is depressing to think about. hope you get it sorted without too much hassle walt.


greg

Some (but not all) Nissan brake cleaner is dry cleaning fluid (Trich). We used to get it all the time but now it is considered hazardous and can only be shipped by a licensed carrier so you have to order a whole pallet of the stuff, so only a bigger dealership would probably have it. The normal stuff now is heptane which leaves a residue if you ask me. I may have a can of the real deal though if you need it...

The way they are doing that repair (the Muggyweld) it almost looks like they are sweating a joint... I would bet it would hold.

Sorry to hear about your woes Hombre, I know the feeling. When I was out squid hunting yesterday I noticed a film of oil on left hand side. I have the STD kit so the oil cooler for the SC is behind the main rad on the LHS; at least it wasn't coating me brakes! Further good news was that it appears to be coming from the top, so have tightened the top and will monitor levels and spray. I am waiting for an e-mail from Richard as to what the level should be and what to top up with.
Bad news on the squid hunt too, no one wanted to play. I came up behind one decent prospect, and after staying with him on a series of 40 to 60mph bends I let him give it some on the next straight before giving it WOT and passing him fairly swiftly. He then backed off and didn't come after me. Spoilsport. Must learn not to show my hand too early.

Joker, you can ONLY USE Rotrex SX100 Traction Fluid. Anything else will void the supercharger warranty. It's very expensive... $85 USD per quart. The best way to top up is to look in the cap after you first start your engine, and add oil until it just shows on short dip stick. If you add oil when engine not running, you will overfill, and possibly pop a line or the cooler. It's also a good idea to check tightness of cap before every ride, because it vibrates loose. This is probably where your oil came from.

Best to ambush squids when they're showing off... otherwise your R3 with a blower and CF skins will intimidate them.