Hello to you all.

First off if you examine the bottom of the seat you'll see its part of the ductwork for the air filter. So unless your bike has had the airbox removed and replaced with triple K&Ns or a Ramair you are kinda stuck with a Triumph seat. Several folks here have had their existing seats modified with changes in foam ect.. The transmission question is much better asked to others here. I hope to never have that issue. I would get that looked into before too many miles though. A wandering circlip can really make a mess of things. Read, read, read you not be sorry.
 

Thanks, barbagris. Good counsel on the DEcosse keyswitch. I agree, his setup seems awesome. Unfortunately, I need to do something sooner than later: I want to take this bike up to Rolling Thunder in DC this weekend - this, by the way, will be the last year that they do this in memory of POWs and MIAs. Expecting well over 300,000 motorcycles in Washington on Sunday...so I don't have the luxury of waiting on availability from DEcosse. Since the MotoGadget was less than the Triumph keyswitch, I will go that route and if need be come back to DEcosse when I have more time and the need.

Cheers,
Greg
 
You might find @idk has a neat home built keyless solution you can maybe adapt. If you look at any post of his - the "how to" is in his signature.
 
I would recommend to make any wiring to accommodate the Motogadget or idk (or ANY other, really) systems on the original key-switch harness and not on the Main Harness.
This has the benefit of making your own system 'plug n play' for easy install or removal while preserving the integrity of your OEM Main harness.
I would also recommend to use THREE relays, not coupling all three OEM-Switch circuits into a single one.
The three circuits are
White to Brown (lighting)
White to Yellow (Ignition)
White/Black to White/Green (Turns/Brake/Horn)
Join the Red to the Blue (parking light circuit)

You can also source the M-Lock power (to red wire) from the White.
Be sure to use a proper 'ground' - the frame is NOT an active ground.
Connect to the battery negative.

Since you already have the OEM key-switch off, you can also attempt repair - pull off the cover on the bottom of the switch assembly and you will likely find a loose/detached wire from the switch plate (most often the white one) - you may be able to re-solder that.
 
welcome Captain from Maine, enjoy your S-miles, most of us here are torque addicts, enjoy mine best in second gear

hoopla