Front Brake Pad Pinch Bolt

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No'mo Rocket 4 me
Joined
May 24, 2016
Messages
4,200
Location
Clear Lake / Houston, Texas
Ride
Honda CB1100
My front brake pad pin bolts need to be replaced with Ti or SS. Someone, in the name of safety, torqued them excessively. It was not me! One will not come out and is almost stripped. :banghead: I'll see if the shop can take it out without removing the whole caliper.

It's been posted but cant find who makes these fancy bolts.
 
2x Titanium Pad Pins Front M10x1mm Triumph Speed Triple Brake Rocket 3 955 | eBay

Found the bolts in England. Now I have to get the "almost stripped" one out. :banghead::banghead:

I have no idea why people go about small bolts without a small torque wrench or by hand feel. Plus this bolt takes no stress. One has to remind the tech, "please do no overtighten my bolts" if you know things that are going to have to be removed later, like brake calipers, are in play during a repair. Hope they did not damage the caliper to fork bolts. Those are soft too.

New oil, new rear tyre, new final drive oil. Need to drop the rear drive and lube the splines. Can this be done without removing the tyre from the drive?

Let's ride.
 
Triumph Stainless fasteners sre inferior to that used by aftermarket bolt makers like Pro-Bolt.

If you remove it and measure they likely already produce that exact part, but have it labeled for a different bike. Call and give them the dimensions of the pin diameter, length under threads, thread pitch and diameter, and thread depth.

The Pro-Bolt SS fasteners don't rust or strip like the OEM ones.
 
Triumph Stainless fasteners sre inferior to that used by aftermarket bolt makers like Pro-Bolt.

If you remove it and measure they likely already produce that exact part, but have it labeled for a different bike. Call and give them the dimensions of the pin diameter, length under threads, thread pitch and diameter, and thread depth.

The Pro-Bolt SS fasteners don't rust or strip like the OEM ones.

Thank you for the advice. I would stop making hex bolts all together. Specially anything small. The hex tool get damaged easy and that leads to bolt damage. It is easy to not sit the hex in all the way making things worse.

Any advice on removing the damaged one? The one on the right was tight but came off. The one on the left just will not budge.
 
A classic example of someone using Red threadlock over blue !
A very sharp , small centre punch to the outside edge of the bolt . Angle it away from the softer material of the caliper and give it a good clout anti clockwise . will take a couple of attempts to ping in a good purchase , but guarantee will shock it into movement once the punch point digs in . Then find a hex key that actually fits , using the wrong size Hex bit , or a cheap set is the worst culprit for this ! Hex bolts are far superior to headed bolts . just need quality keys to get a perfect fit ! good luck .
 
A very sharp , small centre punch to the outside edge of the bolt . Angle it away from the softer material of the caliper and give it a good clout anti clockwise . will take a couple of attempts to ping in a good purchase , but guarantee will shock it into movement once the punch point digs in . Then find a hex key that actually fits , using the wrong size Hex bit , or a cheap set is the worst culprit for this ! Hex bolts are far superior to headed bolts . just need quality keys to get a perfect fit ! good luck .
pps . Brake pins are softer to encourage them to bend as opposed to snap . A bent pin will still work , a snapped one can lock the brakes . Not ideal !
 
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