Engine rebuild gone west

I know this is simple and may not be the answer, but take a look at the engine idle RPM. If it is 850 or lower try raising it with TuneECU to 925 or so. We all did this a long time ago as we were informed from PowerTripp before he retired that the at idle oil pressure was way to low at the stock idle speed.
Cheers I already tried that like I say the light goes out at 1200rpm
 
I thought you were making pieces to hook an oil pressure gauge to read actual oil pressure. This is only way to know what is happening, without this, you're just wasting effort and time.
Yes having that made hoping to get it back today I done a pressure test on it early on it has the correct pressure it was around 3bar at 3500rpm which is OK but that's not we're the ptoblem lies it's losing it lower down, using the sensor banjo with a smaller gauge as the other was just a plug not sure it would make much difference but for peace of mind sake seemed a good way to go, the other gauge I used also was to big to check for smaller readings, what baffles is the fact it goes off on initial warm up for about 4 minutes then lights up
 
Still need to know what the oil pressure is at idle, and what it is when the light goes out (around 1200rpm?), what it does for the first 4 minutes too until light comes on, etc.

I assume you've tried the old sensor, or was there a reason it was replaced?
 
Still need to know what the oil pressure is at idle, and what it is when the light goes out (around 1200rpm?), what it does for the first 4 minutes too until light comes on, etc.

I assume you've tried the old sensor, or was there a reason it was replaced?
Yes I'm keen to find the idle pressure too but these thais are idle at best, I'm still waiting on the modded sensor back to check it... good question over the old sensor it was broken when the engine was removed they've covered there arse on all fronts or so it seems🙊 to be expected as you learn as you go lol... at present it starts and idles great all else appears normal till the light appears also I've checked another new sensor I borrowed off a bonny out the showroom its exactly the same result
 
what baffles is the fact it goes off on initial warm up for about 4 minutes then lights up
That's because the engine oil is cold = thicker on start up giving a higher pressure. Once warmed up after 4 min it thins out considerably which usually equates to lower pressure at slower speeds. This was a common problem with some of our diesels in the mining industry which had worn main bearings or had too much fuel in the engine oil. Oil pressure light coming on when warm idling.... If it was worn main bearings, we could get a few more hours out of the engine going to a substantially thicker oil... but it was a bandaid.
 
The jury's back, the verdict is a piss poor reading of not even 1bar other metre was faulty, I ended up removing the meter started the motor oil pertruded out the end at a slow pace bit like mine these days lol, I put my thumb on the end revved it slightly it did not build any pressure at all, the oil is circulating in the oil tank, I dropped the screens which were pretty clean no were else to turn now so its a totall breakdown, I would like to add at this point the head is brand new but the owner had it powder coated along with all the other casings which could be restricting the flow if they haven't plugged it up properly before they coated it, i was hoping maybe a wrong install off the oil pumps ect but this problem was exactly the same with the old system they took out.
 
The jury's back, the verdict is a piss poor reading of not even 1bar other metre was faulty, I ended up removing the meter started the motor oil pertruded out the end at a slow pace bit like mine these days lol, I put my thumb on the end revved it slightly it did not build any pressure at all, the oil is circulating in the oil tank, I dropped the screens which were pretty clean no were else to turn now so its a totall breakdown, I would like to add at this point the head is brand new but the owner had it powder coated along with all the other casings which could be restricting the flow if they haven't plugged it up properly before they coated it, i was hoping maybe a wrong install off the oil pumps ect but this problem was exactly the same with the old system they took out.
Sorry, sounds like complete disassembly, checking each and every passage for an obstruction. Reassemble and torque rod and mains with bearings, check with inside mikes. or telescoping gauge, to get accurate measurement, and compare to crank diameter readings. or could use plasti-gauge will get you close. If these show up good will need to inspect every piece to find problem. I can't think of any galley plugs that could have been removed. Will have to check everything in oil circulation circuit. Keep searching and find it.
 
One of the ways i do is to put hi pressure air in the system and listen where it is comming out.
For example blast air where the oil sending unit goes or modify the oil filter. U can punch a hole in the filter and give it a blast of air.
Hth
 
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