Drain Plug Final Drive Unit

I believe Flip had commented in a previous thread about the drain plug bolt in the final drive unit being easy to ring off. IT IS!!!!!!! I spent a good two hours this past weekend trying to fish the rung off bolt out of the unit with a magnet wand. When trying to drill it out for an easy out tap, the **** thing went inside. I finally got it. Be careful guys, its doesn't take much to take the top off of the magnetic bolt when tightening it down.

You didn't have any drive housing damage did you

Without checking the manual. If I remember correctly the recommend dry torque us 12 foot pounds. It's the way the bolt is made. The area right below the head is necked down for the sealing washer and the bolt is drilled for the magnetic insert leaving little meat between the body and the magnet where the diameter is reduced.

HeR3tic said:

You didn't have any drive housing damage did you

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Sidecar Flip said:

Without checking the manual. If I remember correctly the recommend dry torque us 12 foot pounds. It's the way the bolt is made. The area right below the head is necked down for the sealing washer and the bolt is drilled for the magnetic insert leaving little meat between the body and the magnet where the diameter is reduced.

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Rocky,

Nope no damage at all, just invented allot of new curse words.

Flip,

12 foot pounds sounds about right. New bolt cost $6.80, aggravation factor was far more.

DO NOT PUSH MAGNET ALL THE WAY OUT OF BORE as it will be difficult to retrieve form bottom of drive hub housing.

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I'm amazed at how many folks misspell "from". Spell check doesn't catch "form" either.

OK, here goes.

My guess is, the magnet will never make it to the "bottom" of the hub housing, seeins as all that ferrous metal is in it's way getting to the "bottom".

So, Britman, explain how you got the "slug" out of the hub housing! Surely you didn't "screw" it out. If you did, tell me the trick you learned which started the screw threads interacting with each other appropriately and in accordance with said screw thread design to complete the "slug" extraction ! Did the magnet wand actually allow you to align the slug & get a turning action going (enough friction between the mating magnetic surfaces) to engage the threads?

Just havin' some good ol' Missouri "5.0" Friday night fun :bch: & being inquisitive.

Excellent recommendation. I like free advice

Simple

So, Britman, explain how you got the "slug" out of the hub housing! Surely you didn't "screw" it out. If you did, tell me the trick you learned which started the screw threads interacting with each other appropriately and in accordance with said screw thread design to complete the "slug" extraction ! Did the magnet wand actually allow you to align the slug & get a turning action going (enough friction between the mating magnetic surfaces) to engage the threads?

Just havin' some good ol' Missouri "5.0" Friday night fun :bch: & being inquisitive.

Rusty,


The whole bottom half of the bolt including the magnet still in the cord went into the bevel box when I was trying to set an easy out. I fished it out with a flexible magnet wand (one of those $2.00 tools you buy at a flea market knowing you will never use) through the filler opening. I could tag the bolt but it kept hanging on the gears on the way up. Final solution was to put the Beast on a jack and play with turning the wheel giving just enough room between the gears to clear the exit. I wish I had seen the post from the other site before I gained several additional blood pressure points. There you go Rusty, good old Virginia Saturday morning reply. Now I have to go wash three unwilling dogs, I wish they had a magnet for that.

Oh Oh.... this looks like a new product opportunity for Flipmiester Industries.

Tomo:

Actually the best fix is to go to the hardware store and get a replacement metric hex capscrew in zinc or chromate for 50 cents and replace it. Fug the magnet. What I'm wondering is what Britman put in the case. The Mobil synthetic gear lube only comes in quarts, about enough for 5 changes and will lighten your wallet appreciably.

I changed mine but I used Eaton-Fuller synthetic gear oil from the shop. Just 'borrowed' a small amount from the drum.

I guess even gear case components made by Ferrari or whatever Itallian company that makes them are still prone to failure.

I'm thinking maybe I should open a shop in Metro Detroit. After the auto plants all go down the tubes I shoul be able to get labor as cheaply as Taiwan.

Sidecar Flip said:

Tomo:

Actually the best fix is to go to the hardware store and get a replacement metric hex capscrew in zinc or chromate for 50 cents and replace it. Fug the magnet. What I'm wondering is what Britman put in the case. The Mobil synthetic gear lube only comes in quarts, about enough for 5 changes and will lighten your wallet appreciably.

I changed mine but I used Eaton-Fuller synthetic gear oil from the shop. Just 'borrowed' a small amount from the drum.

I guess even gear case components made by Ferrari or whatever Itallian company that makes them are still prone to failure.

I'm thinking maybe I should open a shop in Metro Detroit. After the auto plants all go down the tubes I shoul be able to get labor as cheaply as Taiwan.

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Flip

I will probably go the hardware store bolt route the next time I change fluid. I use Royal Purple Synthetic 75-90 about $10.00 a quart. I have always had the tendency to wring off blots, I like things tight. The sad thing is three daughters and one son took care of that. **** I AM GLAD MY WIFE DOESN'T LOOK AT THIS SITE.