Correct use of TuneECU

Please excuse me if this ground has been covered but I've not found anything that explains the topic, merely opinions of various members.
My question goes to the technical reasoning behind modifying a particular map to achieve a favourable result. Don't get me wrong, I love getting the best out of anything I have and/or do but I'd just like to know how to be be sure. I am very late in joining any kind of forum and the guys have all been really helpful and extremely knowledgable(I suppose if you own a rocket...or any British engineered product for any length of time you're bound to get pretty good at understanding how to make it go or you could be walking!), and as such, have only just discovered TuneECU. I fired it up and...well to be honest I just about crapped myself when I saw all the numbers and colours appear on the screen. Changing the view to a graphic was of little comfort even though the numbers now followed a moderately familiar pattern.

How do the guys using the software arrive at the numbers they arrive at?
Are the maps all based on Dyno results or mods of a base program?
Is there a reason why some maps would be altered to produce full power in 1st and 2nd when the factory only saw fit to endow the engine with 20-40% in the same rev range?
What are a "arse dyno" results when unleashing all that power in the lower rev range of the lower gears?
What's up with running the bike 'till the engine fan kicks in, then turning off for 10sec, then back on again before pressing the TPS reset (something I saw in a YOUTUBE POST)? One would expect that simply pressing the TPS reset after loading the map would suffice...if not, why not? (Any proof to support or refute this?)

I know this probably has most of you rolling your eyes back but I'm being sincere and any advise and/or constructive comments would make a big difference to my riding enjoyment.

Oh and if these questions have been asked and answered ad nauseam then by all means direct me to the relevant postings.

Thanks in advance

Well.. I can answer some of that. Opening 2ndries to 100% ( & ideally using a dynoed map to account for the increased air) just makes the bike significantly faster when cracking on hard.So why is the stock bike restricted? simple.. NANNY STATE politics.
The running til the fan kicks in thing .I'd assume is based on the "10 minute tune" IE with the O2 sensor in place & operating, the ECU will self correct fuelling in the low speed( rev) end of the tables. resetting the TPS after a tune run is no bad thing, but shouldn't need to do it very often.( & not nessecary if its functioning well in the first place).
The tables of numbers arn't scary!!! F tables refer to the amount of fuel getting squirted in for each throttle position & rev ( I think it's millisecs duration that the injectors are opened?.. either way the bigger the number, the more fuel goes in)
L tables are more of a quandry.. they are the fuelling tables based on MAP pressure . Theres a vacuum sensor that tells the bike how much 'suck' you've got as the throttles open. They tend to operate at low /off throttle positions, but where to set the switch point??? VERY HARD to get the Power commander dyno guys to understand L table effects.

So Bones,

...any suggestions as to a particular map for the Rocket (removed cat and single lhs exhaust. K&N filter. No further mods)?

Here's where we NEED a Step By Step instructional video.
I KNOW there's guys out there in Rocketland that have this whole thing figured out.
probably also have a video camera or access to one SO,
c'mon guys, somebody make a video..
We don't care how dirty your bike is,
we don't care about how your garage looks,
we DO CARE about learning this
and a easy to understand video would sure help.
A short Step by Step on the how to's and the here's why's...
Would be much appreciated by your fellow Captains,
at least me, and I'm probably not the only one
who doesn't understand this from just the written explanation.

blastedbones said:

( I think it's millisecs duration that the injectors are opened?.. either way the bigger the number, the more fuel goes in)

Click to expand...

It's (according to Tom of TuneECU) an artificial number representing millgrams of air (per second iirc) - End result as Bones says is the ECU calculates fuel based on this number. Don't get hung up on the ACTUAL VALUE.

Note that the OEM maps are as per Triumph. Others are generally from Dyno generated maps. Triumph maps have been generated to allow their bikes to pass emissions tests - and I believe to allow less skilled riders to ride off without getting themselves into trouble at the first corner.

The secondary throttle plates and in some OEM maps ignition timings are used to restrict and/or smooth acceleration and top end power. I found the beast jerky in traffic with them 100% open. And on gravel or sand (or sand dust etc on the road) it's "interesting". My passenger complained.

And yup - understanding L tables requires sitting and thinking. And imo to really get to grips with them you'll need something that can monitor TPS&RPM to establish whether the ECU is using L or F. It's a basic switch function.

I found that comparing (in TuenECU) varios maps helped me understand - look at 20223 and 20224 which are deliberately restrictive maps as well as 20222.

One point - many of the aftermarket maps are based on older OEM maps (20050 typically). There are other factors in the ECU maps other than what TuneECU shows you. I'm told that if you have a bike that came with 20222 in stock - you should attempt to stay on recent maps - I have no idea what else btw.

As for others maps - whilst they serve as an approximation - Dynoing is the real way to get the best esp at lower RPM/TPS etc. The real experts can explain better but there can be huge differences in injector fuel flow.

If memory serves the L tables are part throttle (like 6%) so they affect the idle and deceleration mix only. Tuning without a dynomometer is all best guess and seat of the pants. A good dyno tune will max your power throughout the rev range (or so I'm told). I'd recommend you find an A-1 tuner that is comfortable with the software you use and get it tuned how you like it. Store the tune on a couple thumb drives (in case of fire) and don't fiddle it unless it quits working.

xhdskip said:

Here's where we NEED a Step By Step instructional video.
I KNOW there's guys out there in Rocketland that have this whole thing figured out.
probably also have a video camera or access to one SO,
c'mon guys, somebody make a video..
We don't care how dirty your bike is,
we don't care about how your garage looks,
we DO CARE about learning this
and a easy to understand video would sure help.
A short Step by Step on the how to's and the here's why's...
Would be much appreciated by your fellow Captains,
at least me, and I'm probably not the only one
who doesn't understand this from just the written explanation.

Click to expand...

Ok, I make a simpe video, have a few days off over Easter

mart_dev said:

So Bones,

...any suggestions as to a particular map for the Rocket (removed cat and single lhs exhaust. K&N filter. No further mods)?

Click to expand...

I don't have a map for that set up. but might wanna start with a D&D exhaust map? that should be similar

idk said:

The new version of TuneBoy has a "traction control" function, using the secondary butterflies, to give you a good start from zero. It also has a few other goodies, like having three tunes in the ECU at the same time - allowing you to choose which one you want without retuning.

Click to expand...

Ian - any more detailed info?

The thing about L tables being for the first 6%.... look at some of the tuneboy tunes & you can get F/L switch over set at 31%! so...... bit confused as to whether this is intentional or not....