Correct use of TuneECU

[xhdskip]

EXACTLY WHY we need a video explaining everything step by step.
Someone could change the "tables" and show us by demonstration HOW and WHY
then maybe we could know the reasons behind why you move this by how much.
That's a video thread that would deserve "STICKY" status..
As new mods and tunes come along we could add to the library..

 

[barbagris]

EXACTLY WHY we need a video explaining everything step by step.
Someone could change the "tables" and show us by demonstration HOW and WHY
then maybe we could know the reasons behind why you move this by how much.
That's a video thread that would deserve "STICKY" status..
As new mods and tunes come along we could add to the library..

Thing is that to REALLY show this - you'd need a DYNO. Otherwise I cant image what there is to SHOW.

The F-L table switch thing is actually easy.

There are a series of values - in a RPM vs TPS table. At a given RPM if the TPS position is BELOW the "value" - you're in "L". Raise the TPS values - you'll stay in "L" longer - drop them and you be in "F" more. But you need something to monitor RPM and TPS to know what your riding style is. I found I was in "L" a lot. There are lots of monitor thingies and loggers for OBD-II that will work - The R3 IS NOT OBD-II but will deliver RPM and TPS values perfectly. I tried a VI-monitor - others have used SCANGAUGE iirc. There are cheap chineses things that work with an app on your iPhone too I believe.

My feeling is that unless you know your AFR values are close to optimum it's all a bit moot. And to get this you need a good wide band AFR setup. I'd suggest that anybody in the USA within 200miles of Wayne Tripp, or Bob Carpenter (I guess there are other R3 tuners) needs to get there and have a good base map for their bike done.

I've tried DYNO PRODUCED maps from others with a similar filter/zorst setup and found my consumption rocketed (pun intended) with little or no perceived road performance benefit.

I've said this before - but I am simply stunned that with a PCV/AT consumption has dropped and acceleration improved. There are no Dynos near me so it was this or "guess" and "trial and error" - for which I have neither the time or patience.

 

[ruzzle]

. But you need something to monitor RPM and TPS to know what your riding style is.

In that respect, I lately had a tip from a respected dyno man ...... a tip with which I have been having a lot of fun....

You HAVE an RPM dial awreddy - now wrap a bit of masking tape around your twist grip, near the butt, mark on it throttle positions from 0 to 100%, with a reference point on the adjacent fixed surface.

Teddibly un-scientific, but fascinating to get an idea of what TP and RPM you are using as you go... and dead easy to see both. Bit of an eye-opener, actually.

 

[barbagris]

Teddibly un-scientific, but fascinating to get an idea of what TP and RPM you are using as you go... and dead easy to see both. Bit of an eye-opener, actually.

'tis innit? - Good tip though

The hi-tec advantages are logging. Just a bloody shame the R3 does not output the manifold pressure to my ODB-II monitor. Otherwise I see no easy way to muck about with L tables with much precision.

 

[Blastedbones]

Thing is that to REALLY show this - you'd need a DYNO. Otherwise I cant image what there is to SHOW.

The F-L table switch thing is actually easy.

There are a series of values - in a RPM vs TPS table. At a given RPM if the TPS position is BELOW the "value" - you're in "L". Raise the TPS values - you'll stay in "L" longer - drop them and you be in "F" more. But you need something to monitor RPM and TPS to know what your riding style is. I found I was in "L" a lot. There are lots of monitor thingies and loggers for OBD-II that will work - The R3 IS NOT OBD-II but will deliver RPM and TPS values perfectly. I tried a VI-monitor - others have used SCANGAUGE iirc. There are cheap chineses things that work with an app on your iPhone too I believe.

My feeling is that unless you know your AFR values are close to optimum it's all a bit moot. And to get this you need a good wide band AFR setup. I'd suggest that anybody in the USA within 200miles of Wayne Tripp, or Bob Carpenter (I guess there are other R3 tuners) needs to get there and have a good base map for their bike done.

I've tried DYNO PRODUCED maps from others with a similar filter/zorst setup and found my consumption rocketed (pun intended) with little or no perceived road performance benefit.

I've said this before - but I am simply stunned that with a PCV/AT consumption has dropped and acceleration improved. There are no Dynos near me so it was this or "guess" and "trial and error" - for which I have neither the time or patience.

The F/L question I'm raising is this: Is it best to have a switchover high up like 20-30% as is on a lot of maps? OR set it down to 4-5% & then mebbe the dyno will sort out the low rev fuelling better?

 

[barbagris]

The F/L question I'm raising is this: Is it best to have a switchover high up like 20-30% as is on a lot of maps? OR set it down to 4-5% & then mebbe the dyno will sort out the low rev fuelling better?

At a guess - it depends what you're after. I was really quite surprised how much of my day to day riding was on L tables last year.

This where (imo) long term sampling and logging matters. When you know what you're on now - you can take a decision based on what you want. How much do you USE the throttle and how much do you cruise? - I cruise (albeit at 90mph plus) a fair amount so I tried raising mine a few %. But cant say I noticed anything

Where's Wayne?.

 

[barbagris]

Watch your fueling offsets for the different cylinders. Each injector flows different amounts at different pulse-widths. If you are not sampling each cylinder individually, or watching O2/CO2 interaction, you can get mislead by wideband readings base on all three cylinders.
Cylinder 3 needs a percent or two more fuel in most bikes. -WT

Gotcha - thanks