Clutch sensor problem

And I have a test light like that, without the cable. Is it good enough?

No. You need the one with the cable + clip to attach to the various points to be tested. Try screwfix/Toolstation etc as you can purchase online and collect from store within an hour.

when u get your own test light it will be the best money u have ever spent.
should not take long to solve the problem with the test light.
in preparation for the test i need to know some things so i can start typing (two finger) how to test.
i need to know if the clutch sensor u bought is still in the circuit? and if it is clipped in on the clutch lever assy?
herman

TURBO200R4 said:

when u get your own test light it will be the best money u have ever spent.
should not take long to solve the problem with the test light.
in preparation for the test i need to know some things so i can start typing (two finger) how to test.
i need to know if the clutch sensor u bought is still in the circuit? and if it is clipped in on the clutch lever assy?
herman

Click to expand...

Clutch sensor is disconnected with two exposed wires, somewhere in a garage ;-)
Unfortunatelly tester woll neot be here untill sometime next week - so you have plenty of time for two fingers typing
At least you dont have fat fingers as I do

this post was on april 17
on april 22 i will be changing (edit) it.
hooking up 12 volt test light this will only check the ground side of the circuit.
clamp goes on positive battery terminal and touch probe to negitive post too make sure it lights up (working)
next step
turn ign off kill switch off make sure bike is in neutral
testing clutch switch circuit with clutch switch attached to lever assy
with lever out (not engaged) touch 12 volt test light probe to one of the legs (copper wires) that lights up
now assuming that u have a test probe light keep the probe attached and pull in the clutch lever if both legs lites up your switch is working and circuit is good to ground.
now assuming u have passed all the testing on the clutch switch circuit and passed
while helping out on the the diagnoses of clutch switch i have have learned a little myself.
so in the future i would suggest when the checking clutch switch use a volt meter.
place one black to lead to to (earth)ground (suggest neg bat post)
the red lead to the terminal that has approximate 5 volts (one side should show approximate 0 volts)
while red probe connected showing 5 volts pull in clutch lever and voltage should go to approximate 0 volts
this test will check voltage from ecu thru the switch to a ground circuit.
edited April 22 2020
while helping out on the the diagnoses of clutch switch i have have learned a little myself.
what thru me off in my advice was my test light would not lite with 5 volts.
so in the future i would suggest when the checking clutch switch use a volt meter.
place one black to lead to to (earth)ground (suggest neg bat post)
the red lead to the terminal that has approximate 5 volts (one side should show approximate 0 volts)
while red probe connected showing 5 volts pull in clutch lever and voltage should go to approximate 0 volts
this test will check voltage from ecu thru the switch to the ground circuit.

the most likely problem will be the starter button (except for clicks most likely will be a battery problem)
april 22 i think that this test is good.
u will have to trim a little off the the two the starter button wires (about an inch apart so it will never make contact and short)
engage clutch and use plastic tie to keep clutch engaged
touch 12 volt test light probe to one of the legs (copper wires) if it lights up then that shows that u have power coming from the relay (this is the pos wire coming from the ecu after all the safety's have been met from other sensors (neutral,kickstand,clutch switch.)
so now if u have the light on make sure bike is in neutral
hit the starter button if light goes out the starter should be turning over.
if the light does not go out then your problem will be the starter button or a bad ground circuit.
at this point u can (make sure bike is in neutral ) BRIDGE THE GAP IF the starter turns over the motor then u have a bad starter button and ground circuit is good.
place 12 volt test light probe on each fuse making sure that u check both sides. if it lights up only on one side that fuse is bad. if fuse test is good move on to next step.


well this will give u something to do while waiting for your test light
i guess u might be ready for a ride so lets try something over the weekend
turn ign on kill switch on make sure bike is in neutral bridge the clutch switch
then do the same (bridge the starter button) be quick to remove if the bike starts
if it starts then remove the bridges and go for a ride
don't forget to take the bridges with you.
good luck herman
this post has been edited on april 22 if u find anything wrong in this post u can post the problem or send me a pm.

TURBO200R4 said:

hooking up 12 volt test light
clamp goes on neg battery terminal and touch probe to positive post too make sure it lights up (working)
next step
turn ign on kill switch on make sure bike is in neutral
place 12 volt test light probe on each fuse making sure that u check both sides. if it lights up only on one side that fuse is bad. if fuse test is good move on to next step.

amended for clutch switch out of circuit
is about the same except with the light on u bridge the gap to see if light turns off

testing clutch switch circuit with clutch switch attached to lever assy
turn ign on kill switch on make sure bike is in neutral
with lever out (not engaged) touch 12 volt test light probe to one of the legs (copper wires) if it lights up then that shows that u have power coming from ecu if it doesn't light move to other leg, if u have a light that means from the ecu to the clutch switch is good.
if u do not have a light that means that the power out of ecu is bad or the switch is shorted or bad.
now assuming that u have a test probe light keep the probe attached and pull in the clutch lever if the light goes out then u have a good ground circuit. if light stays onj then u may have bad switch or bad ground circuit.

now assuming u have passed all the testing on the clutch switch circuit and passed
the most likely problem will be the starter button (except for clicks most likely will be a battery problem)
checking the starter button is about the same as the clutch switch circuit

u will have to trim a little off the the two the starter button wires (about an inch apart so it will never make contact and short)
engage clutch and use plastic tie to keep clutch engaged
touch 12 volt test light probe to one of the legs (copper wires) if it lights up then that shows that u have power coming from the relay (this is the pos wire coming from the ecu after all the safety's have been met from other sensors (neutral,kickstand,clutch switch.)
so now if u have the light on make sure bike is in neutral
hit the starter button if light goes out the starter should be turning over.
if the light does not go out then your problem will be the starter button or a bad ground circuit.
at this point u can (make sure bike is in neutral ) BRIDGE THE GAP IF the starter turns over the motor then u have a bad starter button and ground circuit is good.


well this will give u something to do while waiting for your test light
i guess u might be ready for a ride so lets try something over the weekend
turn ign on kill switch on make sure bike is in neutral bridge the clutch switch
then do the same (bridge the starter button) be quick to remove if the bike starts
if it starts then remove the bridges and go for a ride
don't forget to take the bridges with you.
good luck herman

Click to expand...

Tester arrived. Will be doing tests tomorrow.
It's cold and pissing down so not in a mood for a ride anyways ;-)

TURBO200R4 said:

testing clutch switch circuit with clutch switch attached to lever assy
turn ign on kill switch on make sure bike is in neutral
with lever out (not engaged) touch 12 volt test light probe to one of the legs (copper wires) if it lights up then that shows that u have power coming from ecu if it doesn't light move to other leg, if u have a light that means from the ecu to the clutch switch is good.
if u do not have a light that means that the power out of ecu is bad or the switch is shorted or bad.
now assuming that u have a test probe light keep the probe attached and pull in the clutch lever if the light goes out then u have a good ground circuit. if light stays onj then u may have bad switch or bad ground circuit.

Click to expand...

Only issue with that is the clutch switch does not have any power going to it from the ECU (or any power for that matter). The clutch switch only provides a ground to the ECU. If the ECU has a ground on pin A33, then the clutch lever is in. No ground at the ECU on that pin means clutch lever is out.

If you want to test the clutch switch circuit with the test light:

With the bike OFF

1) Disconnect that plug from the ECU that you took off the other day.
2) Put the clamp part of the test light on the wire you previously exposed (black/red) making sure it's not touching any metal on the bike.
3) Walk over to the left side of the bike.
4) With one hand touch the tip of the test light to the POS battery post (should not have a light at this point if you do, you have a short).
5) With the clutch switch installed on the bike:
Pull in the clutch and the light should come on. Let out the clutch and it should out, IF all the wiring and the switch are good.

If the clutch switch is not installed OR the light does not come on with it installed, touch the black/red wire to the black wire ( at the bar end) and the light should come on.

If it still doesn't come then we can go from there.

BTW, check the wire color at the side stand switch just for giggles, My schematic and bike show blk/org is the clutch and blk/red is the side stand. AND they are directly next to each other at the ECU plug (just like yours in your pic), so I'm still feeling weird about yours being blk/red.

Well it's Saturday so I thought I would go out and and test the bike after I posted that stuff about checking with the test light .well I was wrong thanks to still serving for catching my mistakes.

So it turns out even easier than I thought all I did was hook the clamp of the test light to the pos side of the bat and put the probe to the to one of the clutch switch terminals the test light lit up I moved the probe to the other wire not lit so I pulled in the clutch and then it lit up clutch switch GOOD!
Now if u want to check all the way to ECU then u would touch probe to the wire at ecu.
At this point I do not know if I was wrong about the starter button.
I will go back outside and try to check the starter button but I am working at disadvantage be books and dia r at the shop.

Interesting I was able to do the test with ignition and kill switch off.
Also interesting
I had the test light hooked to neg bat with key on kill switch on in neutral and put the probe to the wire going from clutch switch to ecu and was able to hit starter button and motor cranked.
Short version was able to bypass switch with the 12 volt test light.