Clutch bearing collapse

[bebsy]

Hi had my clutch fail, upon inspection the roller bearing that holds the plunger in place had collapsed I'm Tryng to locate parts but triumph world and the triumph manual list it as a needle bearing I have attached a pic its not so clear to tell as it lists a wavy washer and some other washer I did not see any of those does anyone have a pic to see how it should fit together and what is needed cheers.

 

[Steel]

@warp9.9 probably has pictures of what you need to see. He should be here soon.

 

[bebsy]

This is what came off hopefully it was all that was there and not just what is left... Arrrgghh I shouldn't laugh at this stage the housing is nice and clean which was a relief, ever since I've had the bike I've never been able to get that few mill free play but clutch has worked nicely yesterday I noticed a bit of slack then abit more as I went on I took it up a little, the bite felt different then I heard a squeel changing down then a nasty grind I left it at that and opened it up today, when my bike is sick I'm like a bear with a sore head

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

I had this happen too. Well I heard the bearing whine in time to fix it before it collapsed.

[/QUOTE

I attributed the bearing wear to unevenly torqued pressure plate bolts. This seemed to cause a tight spot in the bearing, but this was with a hydraulic clutch where the pullrod is held static rather than rattle around like the OEM Triumph one for the cable clutch.

Anywhoo your manual is out of date and world of Triumph parts fiche uses the old diagram, but it lists both the new and old parts.
You see the 04/05 bikes has a different pullrod, needle bearing and pressure plate.
Newer bikes got a ball bearing and matching pullrod and pressure plate.

You want bearing T1170067.
Triumph Motorcycles | Parts Catalog | Triumph Parts | Triumph Clothing | Triumph Accessories
And wavy washer #3. You don't need washers 19 and 27, they are for the old setup.

You can buy the bearing locally if you have the dims, even a sealed / greased for life one will do just pop the plastic side gaskets off.

 

[bebsy]

Your a star mate
That's settled me i will get the casing pressed out tmrw, could I ask your thoughts on this as far as wear goes, I mean I'd like to change it the plunger and detent spring I've heard mixed reports as for the spring quality being better early on? If that's the case I'd leave it be.. It has 40000km at present

 

[bebsy]

I had this happen too. Well I heard the bearing whine in time to fix it before it collapsed.

[/QUOTE

I attributed the bearing wear to unevenly torqued pressure plate bolts. This seemed to cause a tight spot in the bearing, but this was with a hydraulic clutch where the pullrod is held static rather than rattle around like the OEM Triumph one for the cable clutch.

Anywhoo your manual is out of date and world of Triumph parts fiche uses the old diagram, but it lists both the new and old parts.
You see the 04/05 bikes has a different pullrod, needle bearing and pressure plate.
Newer bikes got a ball bearing and matching pullrod and pressure plate.

You want bearing T1170067.
Triumph Motorcycles | Parts Catalog | Triumph Parts | Triumph Clothing | Triumph Accessories
And wavy washer #3. You don't need washers 19 and 27, they are for the old setup.

You can buy the bearing locally if you have the dims, even a sealed / greased for life one will do just pop the plastic side gaskets off.

Sorry to drop this on you but I'm looking at the plunger the iner part of the roller cage will have to be pressed off surely it should just be a snug fit

 

[barbagris]

Your a star mate
That's settled me i will get the casing pressed out tmrw, could I ask your thoughts on this as far as wear goes, I mean I'd like to change it the plunger and detent spring I've heard mixed reports as for the spring quality being better early on? If that's the case I'd leave it be.. It has 40000km at present

The Clutch Master (aka @warp9.9 ) made me change mine and it was in better nick. Seriously it's not expensive - replace it.

 

[warp9.9]

Your a star mate
That's settled me i will get the casing pressed out tmrw, could I ask your thoughts on this as far as wear goes, I mean I'd like to change it the plunger and detent spring I've heard mixed reports as for the spring quality being better early on? If that's the case I'd leave it be.. It has 40000km at present

That lifter shaft is toast the burnt edges are signs of either no freeplay in the adjustment. Or some one has been pulling the clutch in a revving them motor showing off. So new lifter shaft new lifter piece (the newer style) Turbo supplied part numbers. And the bearing. Now before you order the parts inspect pressure plate bearing bore for damage especially the lower face of the bore. Replace if necessary. You might be alright on that but we need to see the bore.

 

[bebsy]

That lifter shaft is toast the burnt edges are signs of either no freeplay in the adjustment. Or some one has been pulling the clutch in a revving them motor showing off. So new lifter shaft new lifter piece (the newer style) Turbo supplied part numbers. And the bearing. Now before you order the parts inspect pressure plate bearing bore for damage especially the lower face of the bore. Replace if necessary. You might be alright on that but we need to see the bore.

Cheers Warp

It's not what I wanted to here lol but I know your right, I will get the outer part of the bearing pressed out tmrw, last thing I want is breaking it down again I got caught out yesterday 4hrs into a run

Thanks for the advice

 

[warp9.9]

Cheers Warp

It's not what I wanted to here lol but I know your right, I will get the outer part of the bearing pressed out tmrw, last thing I want is breaking it down again I got caught out yesterday 4hrs into a run

Thanks for the advice

It will come out fairly easy. Either a punch, or grind the race so it splits. Or if you run a weld bead on the inside of the outer race when it cools it will shrink and fall right out. Pay attention to the torque specifications on the spring bolts they break easily.