Circuit Wizards please

[bagman]

My question is can I bypass the clutch switch by splicing the black and black/red wires in the handlebar wiring bundle?

wasn't there a post about after market levers not depressing the clutch switch all the way and was jacking up the instrument panel?

for trouble shooting, I would disconnect the plug, check the resistance through the switch both open & closed. maybe as a test jumper the plug, I wouldn't cut & splice it.

 

[tdragger]

I can't figure out how to get the **** clutch switch out of the housing.

 

[atomsplitter]

Here's a bit of British electrics wisdom.

The wiring harness power to the clutch switch circuit is indeed black/orange and the ground is, of course, black.

Now get this: The power lead (black/orange) changes to a black wire across the harness plug then up to the switch on the handlebar. The ground wire (black) changes to black/red in the handlebar wiring bundle. This is shown only on the full electrics diagram.

My question is can I bypass the clutch switch by splicing the black and black/red wires in the handlebar wiring bundle?

In a word, YUP. If you look at the wiring schemes you'll see that all but the gear position sensor go to ground, so splicing the hots to ground will bypass the 'safety' devices.

 

[atomsplitter]

I can't figure out how to get the **** clutch switch out of the housing.

Should be a tab you need to push up (or down) to release.

BTW, if you want to bypass all the safety gizmos you can take the yellow/brown wire coming out from the cross-over relay and take that wire to ground. When you push the starter button you can get the starter to roll with the bike in gear on the sidestand.

 

[tdragger]

Should be a tab you need to push up (or down) to release.

BTW, if you want to bypass all the safety gizmos you can take the yellow/brown wire coming out from the cross-over relay and take that wire to ground. When you push the starter button you can get the starter to roll with the bike in gear on the sidestand.

Yikes! wouldn't want that to happen.

The clutch switch is the only one that I would consider bypassing. I use the sidestand to kill the engine along with the gear position sensor.

The only danger is trying to start the bike with the tranny in gear and the sidestand up. In that case, I should be on the bike and ready for it.

 

[tdragger]

update. it was the clutch switch. bypassed it and the bike started right up. Thanks for the tips.

 

[tdragger]

Update again.

Rode to work and noticed that the bike is a bit "off". When rolling up to a stop light, the revs drop down to about 500 rpm with a distinct loping sound. It sounds good but the engine is very close to stalling. Once stopped, the revs return to normal (around 800 rpm).

Also, did a 5th gear roll-on to pass a car and noticed a hesitation. It has never done this before.

Does anyone know if a bypassed clutch switch affects the ECU in any way? The circuitry indicates that the clutch is disengaged the whole time. Does this affect the ECU?

 

[twistedwisker]

headlights starter relay and driving at nite is not a good practice on a rocket 3

two winters ago my 05 r3 is giving me fits starting at midnight and 30 degrees so:
new battery
eastern beaver headlight with low beam cutout
replaced ignition switch installed aux fuse panel 6x
another new battery
replaced low cutt switch twice
It is still hard to start but the kicker is now the head lights are being extremely undependable they some times come on right away, sometimes dont come on at all,sometimes they come on for a while then go off and back on for apparent reason. no two situations seem to be the same with predictable results so. why does the starter relay need to apply power to the head light relays installed in the eastern beaver kit. tell me if I'm upside down or or highsided on this runnin out of enthusiasm. Ive only got seventy thousand on it cause it's broke down most of the time going to call him the hanger queen if i can't solve this soon.

 

[atomsplitter]

two winters ago my 05 r3 is giving me fits starting at midnight and 30 degrees so:
new battery
eastern beaver headlight with low beam cutout
replaced ignition switch installed aux fuse panel 6x
another new battery
replaced low cutt switch twice
It is still hard to start but the kicker is now the head lights are being extremely undependable they some times come on right away, sometimes dont come on at all,sometimes they come on for a while then go off and back on for apparent reason. no two situations seem to be the same with predictable results so. why does the starter relay need to apply power to the head light relays installed in the eastern beaver kit. tell me if I'm upside down or or highsided on this runnin out of enthusiasm. Ive only got seventy thousand on it cause it's broke down most of the time going to call him the hanger queen if i can't solve this soon.

Replace your low beam cut-off switch. Sounds like the terminals are corroded.

The cross-over relay is what cuts power to the lights and diverts it to the starter. The EB kit doesn't change that functionality, the lo-beam cut-off when switched off prevents the cross-over relay powering the lights. Since your gremlin is the light circuit and only the lo-beam is affected by the EB kit, try using only the high beam and see if it still does it. If so then its at the connector on the loom. See what you find and post it.