Brake fluid change - I screwed it up

Last week when I changed my front brake pads and after riding few miles yesterday I noticed that the fluid level is way too below.

Then today I bought brake fluid and bleeder pipe.

I following the manual page 347-348. And when I reached step 7, which says remove the reservoir cover, I noticed that the first blunder was that the fluid level wasn't low, reservoir was FULL with fluid and may be that was the reason I did not see the level.

Anyway I started with the right caliper first and followed the steps in manual and closed the bleed nipple after that.

Then while the reservoir still open , I started the same procedure for left caliper when I follow through the steps and release the bleed nipple, I could see the bubble coming in the bleed pipe and after that I pull the lever slowly to the handle. Next while it is pulled, I have to see that there is NO AIR in the bleed pipe and when there is no air and no bubbles, I have to fasten the bleed nipple. But the fluid stops flowing in the bleed pipe as soon as I pull the brake level to handle bar. and all that I se in the bleed pipe is air and bubble and flow is stopped. I THINK I SCREWED it completely. Can anyone please help me and explain what is wrong here? My trip is coming this week and I do not want to miss it ....

I keep repeating step 9 and step 10 but bubbles are NOT going away from the bleed pipe.... would appreciate the responses

I have read your post a few times and I can't figure out what the problem is. Once the bleeder is closed the fluid shouldn't move the bleeder hose.

With the bleeder closed, pump the brake lever several times quickly then hold it strongly. The fluid will not compress but the air will and accumulate together if not widely interspersed within the line of fluid. The air will progress towards the bleeder as it pushed ahead of the renewed reservoir supply. With the pressure pumped up and held have a third hand release the bleeder. With the brake lever now collapsed fully against the grip tighten (using third hand) the bleeder valve. Repeat until no spurting is observed from the bleeder valve. Note, that a clear tube (aquarium air tubing) on the bleeder valve and draining into a catch jar is highly recommended along with a watchful eye. You want to catch the fluid and not let it spew anywhere else. Maintain a watch on the reservoir during the process though It's not at all likely to be an issue unless your catch jar has more in it than the reservoir capacity, then you have screwed up. And make sure to use the correct fluid.

When installing new pads the pressure cylinders of the calipers are retracted. The fluid from the retracted pressure cylinders had to go somewhere and that would be the reservoir.

When opening the bleeder and then pressing the brake lever you are enabling fluid to leak past the air, which is likely at the bottom (lowest level) of the line and forward to the calipers. Generally speaking, air is not apt to collect between the low point and upwards to the reservoir. Unless, as mentioned above the catch jar has more than the reservoir capacity. Pump it up, hold, release valve, close valve, and repeat. By pumping it up the air is accumulating together ahead of and behind sections of fluid.

Once you think you have it right: Let it rest a moment; have a beer. Now, pump the brake lever a couple time and hold it moderately a few moments (maybe 10 seconds) then tighten to take a harder grip on the lever and see if the lever significantly depresses further. If so...you are compressing air. If not, you're done.

I too had a time with understanding the issue Pig9r. I just added my way of doing things. It sounds as though the manual wasn't clear enough.

Perhaps one of the worst actions in pad replacement is touching the brake lever with the wheel off. I know that makes sense but someone will surely do it

Bubbles! What's this about bubbles. You don't want bubbles! You want compressed air spewed out in one bleeder release. But that would be optimistic. A length of aquarium hose into a small baby food jar with no more capacity than the reservoir and you have yourself going green, by recycling. Of course the manufacturer of the drain kit spoken of doesn't think so kindly of my suggestion. And don't forget, you're recycling further when the catch jar contents go back in the reservoir. Unless of course you're changing fluid out. Then it can be used to ignite your next bon-fire

Get a friend to help, or get a self bleed kit from the auto parts store. Once you start bleeding the fluid it fills the cup but allows the air in the cup to escape the line. With the tube in the cup going to the bottom and being "submerged" in the fluid from the caliper you will not get air in the line when you let go of the brake handle.

Good luck!!!!

mutt

I have never been able to get a good bleed on a bike with a vacuum system.

One of the best modifications to make bleeding brakes easy is a set of SpeedBleeders - Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder and a length of clear hose.

These make bleeding brakes a one man operation. Simply open the bleeder, pump the brakes while watching the fluid level in the reservoir, then close the bleeder.

Also while you are at it, look at the differences in brake fluids. The R3 can push the limits of some fluids simply because the bike can make prodigious amounts of torque and acceleration, and the weight of the bike and rider can lead to the brake system being pushed to its limits.

Brake fluids are not the same. And the humidity of the climate you live in plays a big part in how often you need to replace it.
Castrol SRF is fantastic, but expensive.
Motul 600 is very good and can be found online or at most bike and speed shops for cars.
Valvoline Synpower is commonly available, relatively cheap, and still works very well. But may require more frequent replacement in humid climates.
I wouldn't recommend anything lower on the list below:

Fluid------------------------------------------Dry BP-----Wet BP----Aprox. BP after 6 months (rough estimate)
Castrol SRF.............................................590 .......518.........554
NEO Super DOT .....................................585 ........421 .......503
Motul Racing 600 ..................................585 ........421 ........503
Motul DOT 5.1 .......................................509 ........365 ........437
ATE Type 200/ATE Super Blue ...............536 ........392 ........464
Valvoline High Perf Synpower ...............503 ........343 ........423
ATE SL ...................................................500........329..........415
Castrol LMA ...........................................450 .......311 .........381
Gunk DOT 4 Brake Fluid..........................510 .......311 .........411
_______________________________________________________
DOT 5 Spec ...........................................500 .......346 .........423
DOT 4 Spec ...........................................446 .......311 .........379
DOT 3 Spec ...........................................401 .......284 .........343

I hope this helps.

HeR3tic said:

I too had a time with understanding the issue Pig9r. I just added my way of doing things. It sounds as though the manual wasn't clear enough.

Perhaps one of the worst actions in pad replacement is touching the brake lever with the wheel off. I know that makes sense but someone will surely do it

Bubbles! What's this about bubbles. You don't want bubbles! You want compressed air spewed out in one bleeder release. But that would be optimistic. A length of aquarium hose into a small baby food jar with no more capacity than the reservoir and you have yourself going green, by recycling. Of course the manufacturer of the drain kit spoken of doesn't think so kindly of my suggestion. And don't forget, you're recycling further when the catch jar contents go back in the reservoir. Unless of course you're changing fluid out. Then it can be used to ignite your next bon-fire

Click to expand...

Thanks guys, first of all I think the manual is misleading the steps aren't right. I repeated the procedure many times and I still saw the bubbles but may be because I did it wrong. First, I did not build up pressure by pumping the brake lever, second, I first release the bleeder nipple and then slowly pulled the brake lever against handle bar which is what manual says. I have to give it a try again today.

HeR3tic said:

With the pressure pumped up and held have a third hand release the bleeder. With the brake lever now collapsed fully against the grip tighten (using third hand) the bleeder valve. Repeat until no spurting is observed from the bleeder valve.

Click to expand...

When you say "With the pressure pumped up and held" do you mean the brake lever is fully pressed against handle bar? Because if I release the bleed nipple while the brake lever is fully pressed, the flow of fluid inside the bleed tube stops.

Ok,

Just now I bleed and replace the fluid with the help of my friend. On left side there was no bubble, right side brake, a tiny small bubble but I could not do better than that. I think that would be fine? I could not do it more because the bleed screw was almost rounded and hard to operate. I have a1700 mile ride this weekend. Is this fine to go with? What do you suggest?

Did you go on a test run? How did the brakes feel?