Battery

A couple of yr's ago a bought a motobatt battery, it was faulty & a refund given. I have now tried one again & it arrived today, (it's not yellow this time,it's black) not fitted yet but is on charge, so far it has taken some charge but has held at 13.9V at .23A, is this ok? My experience so far is that my Yuasa dropped to 000A when fully charged & I am now concerned about this new battery which is Absorbant Glass Mat (AGM). Any ideas folks I'm out of my depth.

Jack ,got one of these on order for my street rod,according to their website they come ready to use straight away without charging. I'd try it and see if all's good when fitted.

Without knowing how your charger works, it is difficult to say. You are seeing the charging voltage of your charger 13.9 volts and I would assume what you are seeing is your charger dropping back on it's charging rate as the battery becomes fully charged. The chart I have included indicates the charged state of a battery when it is not hooked to your charger. If it holds this voltage state over several days without any current drain placed on the battery, you should be good. You will need a volt meter to check this voltage. The true state of a battery, in my opinion, is how well it stands up under current draw while cranking over your engine and how well it maintains/holds it's charge over time.

kipper said:

Jack ,got one of these on order for my street rod,according to their website they come ready to use straight away without charging. I'd try it and see if all's good when fitted.

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Thanks for that Kipper, I charged it before fitting because the last one was discharged on arrival or was goosed when it arrived.

Bedifferent said:

Without knowing how your charger works, it is difficult to say. You are seeing the charging voltage of your charger 13.9 volts and I would assume what you are seeing is your charger dropping back on it's charging rate as the battery becomes fully charged. The chart I have included indicates the charged state of a battery when it is not hooked to your charger. If it holds this voltage state over several days without any current drain placed on the battery, you should be good. You will need a volt meter to check this voltage. The true state of a battery, in my opinion, is how well it stands up under current draw while cranking over your engine and how well it maintains/holds it's charge over time.

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Thanks for that, some good info, I agree that the proof is in the running. I'm taking it off charge now and test terminal voltage now & again in a week. It's not needed yet until I get this Detent spring replaced so I can wait, if ok I'll test terminal voltage while cranking to see how it drops off, if it gets below 12.3 V the bike won't start.

Wondering if a battery earth cable upgrade would help in kicking her over easier?

captain jack said:

Thanks for that, some good info, I agree that the proof is in the running. I'm taking it off charge now and test terminal voltage now & again in a week. It's not needed yet until I get this Detent spring replaced so I can wait, if ok I'll test terminal voltage while cranking to see how it drops off, if it gets below 12.3 V the bike won't start.

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You didn't mention if your battery came dry and you had to add the acid to it after it arrived. The reason I ask is....you mentioned it arrived in a discharged state. To me, that implies it already had the acid added to it. I bought the biggest and highest CCA Yuasa AGM Battery I could get my hands. It came dry with the acid packs and so far it has served me well. I would never put a lot of confidence in a battery that arrived wet and discharged (if they can even ship a AGM battery that way). You never know how long it has be sitting on the shelf before it made it to you.

Motobatt's come filled, charged and sealed. Pretty much the defining point of distribution for ALL Europe is Holland.
Special shippers generally. Many shippers WILL NOT SHIP LOOSE ACID HERE EITHER.

A duff one is just bad luck. I always check too - but both my bikes now have motobatts and they were smack on voltage wise.
The R3 has the black one in.

Jack - the problem MAY NOT BE what you think. Static Voltage is NOT important - what matters is the voltage when you thump the button.
Lead Acid batteries WILL (often rapidly) decrease voltage to feed amps. If the REAL voltage drops too far - then the ECU will not respond.
Motobatt did publish this on their web - have a look.

Just keep it on a battery tender when stood up for a while. Though my Motobatt held up fine for over a week in the UK in April.
Here I always have a tender on at home.

Or get a small LiFePO4 battery and mount in parallel - The way this LiFePO4 will then work is like a trickle charger. They hold a marginally higher voltage.
It's a tip I learned from some guys in the Paramedic industry. They do this on seldom used vehicles they cannot leave plugged in.
LiFePO4 tend to try and keep voltage up rather than deliver amps.
On a Motobatt this add-in is a cinch as you have the dual power posts.

Do you have ANYTHING fitted that draws ANY power when switched off?
Don't guess. Fit an ammeter and measure.

Also Check/Clean/Protect ALL connectors/fuses Poor connections consume energy.

I've been wanting to put a Motobatt in mine, but the stock 6 year old battery in mine is still strong as ever. Even with the Carpenter kit, it's strong as the day I got it. I do have the upgraded starter and cable.

I must admit I agree with Chris ( on the stuff that is not Greek to me ) I can not speak to the MottoBat but 5 years ago I bought a Scorpion and a Speed Cell Lithium Ferrous Battery. I am not sure of the life span and will have to wait for one of them to fail. I put them on a charger maybe once a year in the winter. I also use the Speed Cell to jump cars as you can just hold each lead to the battery needing help and the vehicle is running. Oh and the 920 CCA spins the Rocket over like a mad man