all lights are off

[albertaduke]

anybody with electric knowledge please ....

I cannot think of a single element in this bike that would apparently cause the headlights hi and low to stay off as well as the little parking lights in the headlight bowls as well as the rear and brake lights none works
the turn signals front and back do function the bike start and run ,the instruments show all the lights last week we changed the rectifier as it was faulty I also changed the battery as I suspected wrongly a battery problem not a rectifier problem. I checked all the fuses for continuity in the fuse box and the PC8 all seem fine so where is the problem ? could it be a "relay " does the ECM relay has something to do there I looked at the electric diagram but i do not see anything that connect all these dots..
does anybody has some ideas..how to solve
PS I have an eastern beaver bypass for low beam with the switch (checked that too) but I do not see it as a problem since the high beam also is affected..

 

[Evil Mitch]

I would think it has to be a relay

 

[Mittzy]

Yep, I agree with Mitch.
But I would also change to fuses anyway because you may have a phantom fuse.
Shows continuity but put any load through it and it may be going open circuit, a long shot but a cheap process of elimination.

 

[Gothlander]

The only thing that would upset all those lights would be the ignition switch or its plug. Failing that it would be all your lights are all blown from the rectifier over powering them.

 

[Dennsell]

Do you have a 12 volt test lamp so that you can check for voltage or gnd faults, you say the little park lights are out H/L and tail lights so it surely has to be common to all... and ya EB feeds from Battery or Aux fuse.
I remember my EBA had fuse clip holder in line on battery supply cable and a splicer ...but you mention PCB I would be checking the live circuits with a low watt or LED test lamp to find out where the break is.

 

[albertaduke]

Do you have a 12 volt test lamp so that you can check for voltage or gnd faults, you say the little park lights are out H/L and tail lights so it surely has to be common to all... and ya EB feeds from Battery or Aux fuse.
I remember my EBA had fuse clip holder in line on battery supply cable and a splicer ...but you mention PCB I would be checking the live circuits with a low watt or LED test lamp to find out where the break is.

when I installed the PC8 I also installed the EBA low beam bypass with the on/off switch I have the low beam fed from the PC8 but since the high beam are off as well along the tail light (LEDs) and brake light I am baffled since we have different circuits yet some light do work turn signal, instrument cluster, horn, and engine start and stop.

 

[albertaduke]

The only thing that would upset all those lights would be the ignition switch or its plug. Failing that it would be all your lights are all blown from the rectifier over powering them.

correct if the low beam was on that ignition switch but it is not . and I never use high beam so could not have been blown by overpowering back to square one

 

[albertaduke]

I would think it has to be a relay

which one ?

 

[Evil Mitch]

which one ?

when I installed the relay kit Hanso made up for me last week everything was sweet and i housed the two relays under the tank and put the tank down but i initually must not have had it in a position that was ideal because i turned the key and got the same response your having

My indicators worked but no tail or headlights or parkers .
i lifted the tank back up and realised on of the relays had come loose.

so im thinking perhaps your eb relay has come loose or failed perhaps

 

[Dennsell]

when I installed the PC8 I also installed the EBA low beam bypass with the on/off switch I have the low beam fed from the PC8 but since the high beam are off as well along the tail light (LEDs) and brake light I am baffled since we have different circuits yet some light do work turn signal, instrument cluster, horn, and engine start and stop.

Sorry AD I am not sure if you understud my test lamp suggestion.. it is my simple way of finding what is fed live in any circuit with the exception of ECU circuits which you can damage if you go poking a resistance even as low as small side lamp bulb.

Do you have a test lamp if so just switch on and systematically follow you new circuits to find the sorce of voltage is continuity.. you would find the point when the lamp is out.... a volt meter would do the same as a simple test lamp .. I find this the quickest wat to find a faulty connection etc.....it will work to test ya relays for open circuit..

Hope this helps.