New Battery

Einar said:
You can use a load tester that basically just routes the current through a resistance heating element and you read the radial gauge, using the scale for the expected CCA of your battery. (Since it discharges the battery and heats up, you should only use it for a few seconds).

Like this:
1793016654024.png
Click to expand...


Actually, you can't use that old analogue tester on a LFP battery, the BMS will kick in if the tester draws more than it allows, it will shut down the battery and you'll get a 0v reading. Just put the battery in the bike, check it's voltage reading with a multi meter, start the bike and check it again, if it's sitting right at 13.3v - 13.5v it's perfectly healthy. If you do want to know the real capacity of the battery you need to get a proper lithium battery tester.
 
Eisenfarn said:
Just got the Noco NLP14 back today, it's really small. Supposedly 500 CCA, tested on a BT200 battery tester, only returns 233 CCA, what gives??
Click to expand...
Yeah, that battery is WAYYY too low capacity for our bike. I've written this in other threads, but CCA isn't the only stat to look at. Our stock battery has 18ah capacity. This has 4ah!!! WIth lithium you can get away with half, as you can use the whole capacity without damaging the battery, but 4ah gives you NO RESERVE if you ever leave the ignition on or it's extra cold, or, or....
You're actually lucky you had the tester. Otherwise, someday you would have been out in the middle of nowhere, maybe at night when the temp goes down, and that battery would have left you stranded.
 
Lithium batteries hate the cold. When temperatures drop close to freezing, the chemical reaction inside a lithium battery slows down drastically. To wake it up, you often have to leave the headlights on for a few minutes to draw current and warm the cells. If you only have 4Ah of true capacity, waking the battery up might drain it entirely before you even hit the starter button.
 
After doing a bit of research, I can summarise things by saying that if you want to install a Lithium battery, whatever you do, make sure the model number of the battery you buy has 20 in it (e.g., YTX20, YTX20-BS, YTX20H).
 
From what I've read, Sodium Ion batteries are the next phase in battery evolution. This battery isn't really affected by cold like some during cold starts, can be cycled way more times resulting in a longer life span, is much cheaper because of the use of sodium vs lithium and presents virtually no fire hazard like some batteries. The main drawback is that it doesn't have the same energy density as a similar sized lithium battery. This would mean that a sodium ion battery would be larger dimentionally than a same capacity lithium. Not the best senario for a motorcycle of our size.
 
Gregger said:
From what I've read, Sodium Ion batteries are the next phase in battery evolution. This battery isn't really affected by cold like some during cold starts, can be cycled way more times resulting in a longer life span, is much cheaper because of the use of sodium vs lithium and presents virtually no fire hazard like some batteries. The main drawback is that it doesn't have the same energy density as a similar sized lithium battery. This would mean that a sodium ion battery would be larger dimentionally than a same capacity lithium. Not the best senario for a motorcycle of our size.
Click to expand...
I was talking to the supplier (I returned it in the end) and they said that as the technology is still new, larger capacity batteries are presently being made and should be available soon - we will have to see how large they are.
 
RazMan said:
After doing a bit of research, I can summarise things by saying that if you want to install a Lithium battery, whatever you do, make sure the model number of the battery you buy has 20 in it (e.g., YTX20, YTX20-BS, YTX20H).
ComparePSUs
Click to expand...
I think OP has a 2020 Gen. 2 the only 20 series battery that fits has a "CH" others might be to big. I would have liked 900 amps.
 
Kiwicol said:
Actually, you can't use that old analogue tester on a LFP battery, the BMS will kick in if the tester draws more than it allows, it will shut down the battery and you'll get a 0v reading. Just put the battery in the bike, check it's voltage reading with a multi meter, start the bike and check it again, if it's sitting right at 13.3v - 13.5v it's perfectly healthy. If you do want to know the real capacity of the battery you need to get a proper lithium battery tester.
Click to expand...
Mine does. Depends on the draw and the BMS' settings. But, yes, a proper tester is best.
 

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