Blistered paint on final drive casing

It's out of sight (only underneath) but it's annoying me, and I wondered if anyone had successfully cured or repaired it while the final drive unit was still attached to the bike?
Mike
The paint on the bevel box on my 2007 R111 did the same, I had to disconnect it from the swinging arm and rub it down properly. The alloy was all furred up where it’d come off, so I had to do at least a half decent job. But after undercoating it, I sprayed it black satin to match the frame.
 
Hmmmm .... you've got me worried now. Surely the splines that I need to lube are visible every time I take the wheel off. Am I supposed to be going deeper into the mechanicals to lubricate some other splines?
Mike
 
Hmmmm .... you've got me worried now. Surely the splines that I need to lube are visible every time I take the wheel off. Am I supposed to be going deeper into the mechanicals to lubricate some other splines?
Mike
No, they are not. The splines referred to are on the end of the drive shaft. You have to undo the 4 bolts from the shaft housing at the bevel box to remove the bevel box (what the wheel mounts to) and the splines are exposed.

Find instructions for bevel box removal/installation here: Bevel box — removal and installation (Triumph Rocket III, 2004-2018: Engine and systems: Transmission)
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When it comes to removing and replacing the bevel box, believe me it ain’t hard. I’m no professional mechanic, but I even did it with no problem! Twice actually, firstly to paint the 07 R111 and recently to give the splines a grease on my 2009 Classic.
A tip, when removing the box, try to pull it off straight and don’t move the connections. When replacing it back together, use a long piece of string scrunched up, to keep the shaft central. Leave a bit hanging out, so once you get it lined up and partly on, you can pull the string out before pushing the bevel box home. Just take your time mate.
 
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