Wouldn't you be pissed!

That really sucks, I can see how I would easily make this mistake also. When changing your oil you really don't think about needing the service manual. Hell it is straight forward, pull the plug, drain the oil and put back in the right amount. I have a triumph service manual and have learned from others on here that no matter what you do on this beast don't ever assume you know how to do it with out looking over the manual.

My only saving grace on this is I would have needed to check the manual to see how much oil goes back in and see if the washer needed replacing on every oil change. Some one should sticky this so others here don't make the same mistake.

Maybe make a thread titled, before you change your oil read this!!

I hope you get it sorted out easily, though I think you will probably have to find a good welder like flip mentioned and with some luck it will hold and be fine.

Good luck


LS

Thanks Guys,
Good information here and good warnings to all.
I follow what HeR3tic says with 12 to 15 on the torque wrench. New washers O rings and the bit. Always a good caution with aluminum castings. There has always been something on the bottom pan, thought it was just road grime. Last September the misses and I were heading to Hot Springs NC when we had to do the rest stop thing- only 45 miles from home! I waited in the parking lot when I noticed the rear tire had a bit of shine. OIL! Went back and got the trusty Tundra and saved the weekend. Been putting up with it because not much riding this winter plus valve job and metal changeout. Video went to GA today. Not expecting much help but let's see. I've got the epoxy ready.

GreyFox said:

Thanks Guys,
Good information here and good warnings to all.
I follow what HeR3tic says with 12 to 15 on the torque wrench. New washers O rings and the bit. Always a good caution with aluminum castings. There has always been something on the bottom pan, thought it was just road grime. Last September the misses and I were heading to Hot Springs NC when we had to do the rest stop thing- only 45 miles from home! I waited in the parking lot when I noticed the rear tire had a bit of shine. OIL! Went back and got the trusty Tundra and saved the weekend. Been putting up with it because not much riding this winter plus valve job and metal changeout. Video went to GA today. Not expecting much help but let's see. I've got the epoxy ready.

Click to expand...

Tundra's are only trusty for a while, then the engine sludges up, eventually starves itself for oil and wham. It's off to Toyrota heaven......

I'd forego any epoxy or JB weld or any snake oil like that. You need to pull the sump plate and determine what caused hemmorage in the first place. It looks to me like there is part of the strengthening rib/cooling fin missing, right at the plug boss. My sump plate don't have that ragged edge...I know, I went and looked. Maybe something came up from the road and smacked it, **** lays on the road all the time....parts that fell off of Tundra's...... or Nissans.....

Get it off, determine the damage and get it welded not gooed up with some kind of snot. Snot might work for your lawnmower, it's bad business on a vehicle you are depending not to set you on your ass if the snot lets go and the rear tire gets lubed while you are heeled over in a turn.....

Flip,
Can you point to the jagged edges, missing piece you described? It weeps right above the dirty spot on photo 2 in the deepest spot next to the plug
Thanks again

..............In your first picture (with the mirror), it looked to be as though something had hit the sump plate, which, I can see now, it hasn't. You still need to take the plate off (which is no big deal except a new gasket) and dye test the plate to find out exactly where the fracture or the casting defect is and then weld it or petition your dealer or Triumph for a new one. It needs to be welded from the inside. Without a dye test, it's going to be a crapshoot as far as sealing the leak, that is, if it's not replaced under a warranty claim.

Your first picture wasn't that clear, actually these aren't either, but the detail is better. You need a Macro on your digital camera. The focal length precludes close up pictures, at least in thye mode you are in.

OK,
Triumph offered a new oil pan and gaskets. I take care of labor and oil. No such luck though on the 2nd to 3rd gear issues until it dies.

It;s a sump plate not an oil pan. Pans hold oil in a tank like area. All the plate does is cover the bottom of the lower. skirted block and allow access to the crank ladder. It's a dry sump engine anyway.

Take the plate and smile. Sounds like a perforated casting. I've seen it happen before though not often. Just seen an Arctic Cat quad witha porous die cast auminum rear caliper body. We dye scanned the caliper to be sure.