Upgrade kit for me?

I'll have to give it a try. Thanks.

Hi Brian, got my bike back from the dealer and with the upgrade kit installed! definately shifts smoother! but I am noticing some, I guess you would call it gear lash! when you let off the throttle and grab a handful again there is a jerk (thud) I asked the dealer and he said thats normal, its due to the spacing now in the trans! have you noticed the same thing?
 
Yes, going from 1st to 2nd, if I let off the throttle shortly after getting into 2nd. The more I ride the less I notice it though. I think I am adjusting my riding style to it. Neutral has been harder to find at stop lights though. It takes only the slightest bump to get it in and it is easy to miss.
 
I've been recently having a little problem with second gear too. It just isn't a solid shift when under heavy acceleration. It shifts fine when driving normally but when I'm "on" it and shift to second, it feels sloppy like it doesn’t go into gear completely. Sometimes I miss it altogether. What a coincidence cuz it just stated hapening, too. Mine’s an 06.

Scow, thanks for the checklist update.

That's a condition of recall (so I'm told). Any one of several conditions will trigger the rest to be considered and repaired in total.

How is the "rattle" determined to be from the cam chain or the oil pump? My 2006 with just 6,900 miles just started making the rattle. It does go away after warming up.

The cam chain key rattle is around 1200-1500 rpm on a COLD engine and goes away as the engine warms to operating temperature. On rebuild, the sprocket, key, fixing bolt and cam chain guides are upgraded.

I fixed mine a long time ago way before triumph would addmit somthing was wrong
I think the sound is a bit like a loose lifter.MY key in lower sproket was very worn.You
could clearly see a wear line with the eye.my rattle never went away till i fixed it.

I believe the rattle stays as the wear progresses. As the clearance becomes greater, thermal expansion can't take up the clearance and the rattle stays no matter what the operating temperature is.

I am thinking if the rattle was associated with the cam gear like Pedro describes it won't go away after warming up.

Could be the oil pump drive chain. A good dealer knows the difference.

I had the upgrade kit installed by Hermy's in Port Clinton PA. The poping out under hard acceleration problem is fixed. However, there is driveline slop in the lower 3 gears where it never existed before. Let me explain. At low rpm, the driveline jerks on accel/decel. You can make the bike jerk violently by just twisting/releasing the throttle. I have to be very easy on the throttle to avoid it. I'm taking it back for a free 600 mile bolt tightening tomorrow. What did they do wrong? I expect it cannot be fixed without a complete teardown. :eek: Do you think another dealer would even touch it now?

The drive line slop is a condition brought about by the upgrades, like Pigger, I've changed my riding style to accomodate it.

Not to get paranoid or hijack anything--- but I am at 24K on the 05 and have been babying the second to third gear change for some time now. Dealer says nothing to worry about but the grinding makes me want to launch every time I hear it so no one else will notice. A bit of shame.
I'm in upper SC. Does anyone have a dealer that has gone to bat for them that I can get to ? After the local dealer rounded my axle nut with channel lock pliers I can't bring myself to go back.

I drove 650 (one way) for peace of mind. One mans ceiling is another mans floor. Marne, Iowa isn't out of shooting range for you either. Consider it a nice vacation or a visit to the best Triumph museum in the United States (free admission).

Well, looks like another week on the bicycle. Gus at Baxter's called and said that he was in the process of pressing my new output shaft bearings in when he noticed that my torsional damper shaft didn't have hardly any tension on it. Apparently the spring is bad. So that may have been what I thought was a transmission problem all along. He called Triumph and they are going to warranty that also.

So because of what I thought was a transmission issue, has led to discovering a head gasket leak (thanks Tom) and TDU failure. I can't complain, the warranty was up in February 2008, and Triumph is paying for the upgrade kit, head gasket, a torsional damper shaft and any labor.

I have to say, that there are probably not very many dealerships out there that -while they are being underpaid for warranty work - would find other issues and take care of them too. Also not too many mechanics would take the time to call the customer everyday to let them know the progress. He also told me that he will be putting about 100 miles on my bike when he is done to make sure everything checks out. I am glad I took my bike to them.

I also have to "give props" to the guys that went through the output shaft bearing and transmission issues a few years ago that has led to these issues being identified and easily resolved.

Lots of owners with early problems went through a hill of ****te with Triumph before they (Triumph) fessed up to a problem. Their pain and anguish helped us in getting almost painless resolve. My hat is off as well. Again, my hat is off to Tomo fore steering me to Baxter and Gus. Best dealer in the country as far as I'm concerned.

I picked up the bike yesterday. It seems that the problem may have been the TDU all along. The mechanic said the spring on the shaft did not have hardly any tension on it. So I got the upgrade kit, head gasket replaced, clutch lifter piece machined, and TDU replaced for $0, and the warranty was up in Feb 2008. I have spent most of my afternoon going over the bike to make sure everything is tight and set up right. Had to tighten a few things and add some more coolant. I really didn't get a chance to ride it other than in the neighborhood. It does shift better, no more missing shifts from 1st to 2nd, but neutral has proved to be a little bit difficult to find.

My output shaft bearing was installed backward but it was in good shape. Apparently the open side of the bearing should be facing toward the engine case as there is an oil passage way that lubes it. So I could see if someone was guessing which way to install it how they would put it in backward.... If it is installed backward, it still gets some oil splashed on it. That's probably why so many have survived. I read somewhere that there was no markings on the bearings. Mine had a manufacturer's name and a part number stamped on it.

I also polished the wheels today. Triumph didn't do the '06 and newer owners any favors when they stopped coating the wheels. What a pain in the ass. And Chip Foose is a liar, that Mother's polishing ball is a piece of ****.

Chip Foose is an entertainer. In reality, he's an idiot. Bet he never used the 'Mothers' crap. Probably has some minimum wage 'boy' do his polishing. My TDU bearing was also tatted on the outer race and the inner cage. I looked at it carefully because Gus wanted me to 'feel' how little roughness was apparent in it.

Do you think it's safe to assume that all of the out put bearings, or most were put in backwards as I type this a thousand miles from home:eek:

Probably. Some won't fail because as Pigger states, they all get some lube. Some get more than others. The ones that get marginal oil supply, fail.

Also, go over your bike really good checking for loose fastners. Also check your coolant and oil levels.

I believe that's a condition of Baxters. Gus fields the phone and deales with shop customers so he gets interrupted on ocassion. he told me to check everything because of that. I had some loose bolts. My water was to the full mark however.:D
 
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