** SOLD ** Bug for sale or trade

Careful on that sand and buff and who you take it to. That's a beautiful job and someone who isn't a good auto painter can really screw it up. Detail shops don't generally do final buffs; paint shops do.

After the final coat of clear is applied and sets up, it is sanded with a very find grade of sandpaper, actually buffed with it. The grit of the sandpaper depends on on how good a job you want, such as a "flat finish", which is show quality. With a flat finish they take out all of the imperfections and thickness variations in the clear coat, hence the term. The grade and thickness of the clear coat also comes into play on what kind of final buff job you want.

On my truck I asked for the flat finish on which the finish guy used up to 3500 grit and took about an additional 4 hours of buffing over what would be a normal buff out. Even with that I took it back a few times to have them fix some minor flaws I found under shop lights. I took this pic the other evening after I finished installing the instrument cluster.

Old Ford (1632 x 1224).jpg


And that's the Nomad you and Lorrena will be riding. I have it set up for roadster style with just the fender rack now but I'll have the passenger seat/rear rack and backrest installed for you. Both seats are Mustang which also included a rider backrest if you want to use it.

And that's a very fine bug there Lupe. Nicely done. It really is a labor of love isn't it.

I'll probably be selling my old truck too.
Beautiful truck and beautiful bike Mike, can't wait!!
 
Careful on that sand and buff and who you take it to. That's a beautiful job and someone who isn't a good auto painter can really screw it up. Detail shops don't generally do final buffs; paint shops do.

After the final coat of clear is applied and sets up, it is sanded with a very find grade of sandpaper, actually buffed with it. The grit of the sandpaper depends on on how good a job you want, such as a "flat finish", which is show quality. With a flat finish they take out all of the imperfections and thickness variations in the clear coat, hence the term. The grade and thickness of the clear coat also comes into play on what kind of final buff job you want.

On my truck I asked for the flat finish on which the finish guy used up to 3500 grit and took about an additional 4 hours of buffing over what would be a normal buff out. Even with that I took it back a few times to have them fix some minor flaws I found under shop lights. I took this pic the other evening after I finished installing the instrument cluster.

Old Ford (1632 x 1224).jpg


And that's the Nomad you and Lorrena will be riding. I have it set up for roadster style with just the fender rack now but I'll have the passenger seat/rear rack and backrest installed for you. Both seats are Mustang which also included a rider backrest if you want to use it.

And that's a very fine bug there Lupe. Nicely done. It really is a labor of love isn't it.

I'll probably be selling my old truck too.


Although I appreciate your input to Lupe on this, rest assured that I know what I'm talking about when I give him advice on paint work. I did tell him to take it to a good detail shop because his painter is no longer in business. And from my experience of working in the auto collision repair industry since 1995, and have done custom painting since 1979, I can assure you that any reputable "paint & body shop" that is a large production shop (meaning they handle a very high volume of collision repair) does not have the time for a "nuisance job" such as wet sanding and polishing a paint job that was done by another facility. when people come to our shop needing something in the line of touch up, or buffing, we send them to a good reputable detail shop that specializes in such type of work.
And FYI, if your finish guy stopped his process at 3500 grit, fine wet sand, he stopped well short of the industry standard of taking it all the way up to 5000 grit, super fine, finishing & finesse final sand & polish. Not to take away from the fact that your truck and bike look fantastic per your photos. much respect to you on those!
Nor trying to pick a fight Sir, just thought Ineeded to clarify since you thought it necessary to correct my advice to Lupe ;)

Lupe, trust me that you will find it much easier to find a good reputable detail shop that can perform the work you need, before any descent paint & body shop will be willing to do so............ I stand by my advice :cool:
 
I have heard that before, they say Ducatis are more high maintenence than wives!!
No kidding. Of course it depends on year/model/condition etc., but they can be maintenance & repair intensive.
The two I've had were actually not that bad - but we're talking the mid 80's. Newer ones seem either to be Good or Bad with no middle ground. The scheduled maintenance costs put me off a Ducati ever again - except maybe a "Classic". Desmo heads are a PITA.
 
Does it jump up and down when you crank up the tunes ? Nice bug Lupe, it will sell. List it in adjoining cities.
 
Although I appreciate your input to Lupe on this, rest assured that I know what I'm talking about when I give him advice on paint work. I did tell him to take it to a good detail shop because his painter is no longer in business. And from my experience of working in the auto collision repair industry since 1995, and have done custom painting since 1979, I can assure you that any reputable "paint & body shop" that is a large production shop (meaning they handle a very high volume of collision repair) does not have the time for a "nuisance job" such as wet sanding and polishing a paint job that was done by another facility. when people come to our shop needing something in the line of touch up, or buffing, we send them to a good reputable detail shop that specializes in such type of work.
And FYI, if your finish guy stopped his process at 3500 grit, fine wet sand, he stopped well short of the industry standard of taking it all the way up to 5000 grit, super fine, finishing & finesse final sand & polish. Not to take away from the fact that your truck and bike look fantastic per your photos. much respect to you on those!
Nor trying to pick a fight Sir, just thought Ineeded to clarify since you thought it necessary to correct my advice to Lupe ;)

Lupe, trust me that you will find it much easier to find a good reputable detail shop that can perform the work you need, before any descent paint & body shop will be willing to do so............ I stand by my advice :cool:
I don't know at what grade sandpaper he finished. I recall stopping by one day and he was using the 3500 grit so with the deep mirror finish I have on my truck, I suspect that he did use the 5000 to finish.

I suspect that detail shops in your neck of the woods are significantly different than those in mine. Plus, we have quite a few small paint and body shops around here that would do finish buffing for cars like Lupe's. Just a difference in local reference I suspect. And I absolutely do not think you are trying to pick a fight fight. We're just trading opinions and recommendations, yours with obviously much more background than mine.
 
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