Oil and a finicky Neutral

jaredmt

.060 Over
Joined
Sep 27, 2006
Messages
184
Location
Utah
Ride
2014 Roadster
Hi guys ... just wondering if everyone tends to wait for the full 10k miles before changing oil. I ask because on both of the R3s I've owned, after 5k to 6k miles the tranny starts being stubborn about going into Neutral if the bike is stopped.
This situation is alleviated by an oil change, though it is notably prior to the recommended schedule.
 
I changed my oil at around 3,000 miles. On other bikes I've changed the oil as soon as 600 miles. Got a bit lazy with the R3T. I'm of the opinion that the first oil change should be done early.
 
I change mine evry 5 K when I am using the mobile rt oil but I have switched to a turbo diesel oil and now since it is cheaper I change every 3k. very few pieces of equipment ever die from over lubrication!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I have a piece of equipment (actually, it's a monster) that LOVES lubrication; the more that gets applied to it, the merrier it is! :D
 
I'm just following the schedule ... 10k or annual.
I've been running the same synthetic in the MINI since it was new and change it according to the dash board service interval. I change it every 15k and add as needed, she's got 102k hard race and Kelly miles. Everything is still tight, good compression and still had 225hp as of a couple months ago. If synthetic looks that good coming out of the MINI, I totally trust it in the R3.
 
Hell fire is right there is nothing wrong with the scheduled maintenance. I only changed as Triumph is changing brands and I think the mobile oil is changing to meet epa requirements which remove the good stuff that the bike like for the EPA reasons. Turbo diesel oils have some of those goodie in it like sulfur but they also are changining all be it slower then rehular road oils. when I take her aprt to add power to her I will be switching to Joe Gibbs racing oil his hot rod 15W50 to be exact as that is what they recommended to me when I talked to them. They said there other race oils have to much moly in it for wet clutches in there opinion. They told me if I was changing oil often as racers do it would probably not matter but the hot rod oils have low friction inhibitors (moly and such) and high wear protection goodies(sulfur and other additive to decrease wear). These additives are being removed from street oils do to EPA and clean enviroment law changes. Race vehicles not considered your typical road use have not been affected as of yet.
 
Hellfire ... do you have the neutral-finding problems like I mentioned at about 5k to 6k into your oil change?
Since I've had this on both R3s I've owned, I can't help but think it is par for the course.
However, we're talking hard to find. I'm at 6k right now, and if I'm at a light, I have to push up w/ about all my ankle has to get it to shift. Jumps to 2nd and I have to precisely tap down to get neutral .. usually just 1st again. The issue is while at a stop.
With newer oil (up till around 5k, for example) I can shift to neutral at a stop, smooth as butter.
This tells me the oil at 5k to 6k needs a change for the sake of the bike, no?
 
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