ant
Turbocharged
Hello and welcome from the UK...Find somewhere to store it first.
Hello from Jax Beach
- Thread starter Nenlow66
- Start date
Mike188
Living Legend
Welcome from Australia
Just do it
Just do it
Claviger
Aspiring Student
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2014
- Messages
- 6,934
- Location
- Olympia Washington
- Ride
- '21 Z H2, '14 R3R, '02 Daytona 955i
\o/ Welcome to the forum. Yeah I have done some anti-corrosion work. The areas you will have issues pretty quickly living near the beach:
Fork Legs, look down past the swept area when the suspension moves, ensure you wipe with a rag to get the salty crud deposited off.
The top triple tree, and any chrome (except the gauges/turn signals) will all rust very quickly if left unwashed and unwaxed.
All the "Chrome/Stainless Steel" bolts on the bike. They will all rust, every single one of them except the triple tree bolts and exhaust to head mounting cap-nuts. None of them are actual stainless except the triple bolts and capnuts on exhaust.
If you want to ensure you don't have any issues with corrosion, I suggest either a full wash and wax, down to each individual bolt head OR powdercoat/paint all the chrome stuff, which sounds like a big job, but its really not. One afternoon to disassemble it all, couple days in powder shop, another afternoon to assemble, and protected for years to come
Cost, here in Hawaii, was not terrible, only about 280 bucks, much less than what replacing or re-chroming the stuff that was rotting away would have cost.
If you replace shocks, but black ones, not chrome, chrome ones will rust if you live near the ocean
If you decide to replace the exhaust for more power, a course many captains end up taking, ensure the exhaust you buy is actually SS even if it's ceramic coated. Mild still will rust, whether VHT painted, ceramic coated, or chromed, it will rust. The only way to be sure you can stop it, is buy a SS exhaust and have it ceramic coated (looking at you reband/carpenter for the SS choices).
All told, I think for about $1000 USD, you can nearly "corrosion proof" your rocket. A big part of it is replacing the bolts, for that, www.pro-bolt.com is your friend and the bolt diameter/length/type/location list below. Most of these can be replaced with 7075 aluminum from probolt, they are stronger than the SS hardware triumph uses, despite the fact that they are aluminum. Some of the critical weight bearing components, use titanium not aluminum, things like caliper mount bolts, caliper pinch bolts, fork pinch bolts, bevel box fixing nuts, rear axle nut, etc should all be Titanium replacements.
Most of all, enjoy your ride and look out for sandy corners
Fork Legs, look down past the swept area when the suspension moves, ensure you wipe with a rag to get the salty crud deposited off.
The top triple tree, and any chrome (except the gauges/turn signals) will all rust very quickly if left unwashed and unwaxed.
All the "Chrome/Stainless Steel" bolts on the bike. They will all rust, every single one of them except the triple tree bolts and exhaust to head mounting cap-nuts. None of them are actual stainless except the triple bolts and capnuts on exhaust.
If you want to ensure you don't have any issues with corrosion, I suggest either a full wash and wax, down to each individual bolt head OR powdercoat/paint all the chrome stuff, which sounds like a big job, but its really not. One afternoon to disassemble it all, couple days in powder shop, another afternoon to assemble, and protected for years to come
Cost, here in Hawaii, was not terrible, only about 280 bucks, much less than what replacing or re-chroming the stuff that was rotting away would have cost.If you replace shocks, but black ones, not chrome, chrome ones will rust if you live near the ocean
If you decide to replace the exhaust for more power, a course many captains end up taking, ensure the exhaust you buy is actually SS even if it's ceramic coated. Mild still will rust, whether VHT painted, ceramic coated, or chromed, it will rust. The only way to be sure you can stop it, is buy a SS exhaust and have it ceramic coated (looking at you reband/carpenter for the SS choices
).All told, I think for about $1000 USD, you can nearly "corrosion proof" your rocket. A big part of it is replacing the bolts, for that, www.pro-bolt.com is your friend and the bolt diameter/length/type/location list below. Most of these can be replaced with 7075 aluminum from probolt, they are stronger than the SS hardware triumph uses, despite the fact that they are aluminum. Some of the critical weight bearing components, use titanium not aluminum, things like caliper mount bolts, caliper pinch bolts, fork pinch bolts, bevel box fixing nuts, rear axle nut, etc should all be Titanium replacements.
Most of all, enjoy your ride and look out for sandy corners
Nenlow66
Standard Bore
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2016
- Messages
- 9
\o/ Welcome to the forum. Yeah I have done some anti-corrosion work. The areas you will have issues pretty quickly living near the beach:
Fork Legs, look down past the swept area when the suspension moves, ensure you wipe with a rag to get the salty crud deposited off.
The top triple tree, and any chrome (except the gauges/turn signals) will all rust very quickly if left unwashed and unwaxed.
All the "Chrome/Stainless Steel" bolts on the bike. They will all rust, every single one of them except the triple tree bolts and exhaust to head mounting cap-nuts. None of them are actual stainless except the triple bolts and capnuts on exhaust.
If you want to ensure you don't have any issues with corrosion, I suggest either a full wash and wax, down to each individual bolt head OR powdercoat/paint all the chrome stuff, which sounds like a big job, but its really not. One afternoon to disassemble it all, couple days in powder shop, another afternoon to assemble, and protected for years to come
If you replace shocks, but black ones, not chrome, chrome ones will rust if you live near the ocean
If you decide to replace the exhaust for more power, a course many captains end up taking, ensure the exhaust you buy is actually SS even if it's ceramic coated. Mild still will rust, whether VHT painted, ceramic coated, or chromed, it will rust. The only way to be sure you can stop it, is buy a SS exhaust and have it ceramic coated (looking at you reband/carpenter for the SS choices
All told, I think for about $1000 USD, you can nearly "corrosion proof" your rocket. A big part of it is replacing the bolts, for that, www.pro-bolt.com is your friend and the bolt diameter/length/type/location list below. Most of these can be replaced with 7075 aluminum from probolt, they are stronger than the SS hardware triumph uses, despite the fact that they are aluminum. Some of the critical weight bearing components, use titanium not aluminum, things like caliper mount bolts, caliper pinch bolts, fork pinch bolts, bevel box fixing nuts, rear axle nut, etc should all be Titanium replacements.
Most of all, enjoy your ride and look out for sandy corners
Excellent advice...also, exact accurate description of what happened to my last bike, even the bolts; and I was putting my hands on it like clockwork to no avail.
I really like the blacked-out X for that very reason; there's a few relatively near me for 17, but there's an 09 even closer for 8 (but, obviously, lots of chrome).
I will look into the powder coat as I feel it's probably a must.
Boog
Traveling Story Teller
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2013
- Messages
- 8,501
- Location
- Dumfries, Virginia
- Ride
- 2014 R3T, RAMAIR, Full Viking Dual exhaust
Hello nick and welcome from Virginia. I feel your pain with no garage. I use a cover but even that will only help your situation a little bit as that salt spray/fog gets everywhere. I live in Orange Park for years and it was an issue all the way there. I can only imagine how bad it is right on the coast. Just have snow to deal with here...
Claviger
Aspiring Student
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2014
- Messages
- 6,934
- Location
- Olympia Washington
- Ride
- '21 Z H2, '14 R3R, '02 Daytona 955i
Just a heads up, the black coating on certain parts will rust even more readily than chrome does
The headlight buckets in particular, are not painted or anodized, it is some sort of cosmetic, non sealing coating that makes it black. They were actually the first thing on my bike that started rusts, within 3 months of purchase. If you look at my posts, I have one listing all the parts that will readily rust, as they are all the parts I powdercoated.
The headlight buckets in particular, are not painted or anodized, it is some sort of cosmetic, non sealing coating that makes it black. They were actually the first thing on my bike that started rusts, within 3 months of purchase. If you look at my posts, I have one listing all the parts that will readily rust, as they are all the parts I powdercoated.
Ogun
Standard Bore
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2016
- Messages
- 10
Welcome from west intercoastal or extreme east Arlington off Atlantic. Stay in touch - I'm pulling the trig in a few weeks also on some R3T from somewhere. There are some really good products out there to inhibit corrosion. I have all of my company rooftop air conditioners (in PV, Marsh Landing and 3rd St) treated when replaced and I am getting 4-8 years before fin-rot sets in. I'll post other product names tomorrow. Try Nyalic - used to spray the space shuttle nose ends with it. Claviger's suggestions are quite right & exact for real protection. I was stationed in K-Bay for a few years (1.5 generations ago) and the vegetation even has a permanent salt crust there. You might not need as much at the beach, but it couldn't hurt. Ride safe and smart - 'specially at the beach!!!
TheWhingnut
Duct Tape Jedi
Welcome from Norfolk VA!
