Gearbox
Warps tricks for assembling clutch.
1 clean pressure plate ID where the roller bearing goes.
2 clean ID and OD of roller bearing.
3 clean OD of clutch lifter piece where it fits into the ID of the roller bearing.
4 after cleaning I apply a few drops of Loctite Baring adhesive to the OD of The Pressure plate bearing and install. I then amply The same to the OD of the lifter piece and install in the ID of the pressure plate roller bearing.
Let it set up over night.


With these parts secured toget slopp is eliminated which makes is much easier to adjust the proper free play in the system.

I also use external return spring instead of the one on the liftershaft.




The project takes a little longer due to letting the loctite set up over night but I do not have any clutch adjustment problems.

This si not per manual it is just what I do to my bikes.

What really makes the difference is do you know where the centerline of your liftershaft is verses the back of the lifter piece head? I do because I measured it includong the .010" thickness of the clutch cover gasket. This allows me to have the least amount of free play which means I get the most pull and release of the clutch without damaging things.

I also use this clutch lifter piece even though it was made for the newer Rockets



Just my take on it as I am no expert except at breaking stuff
 
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All I can offer is that my gearbox was a complete arsehole when it came to changing from 4th to 5th... not a hope if any significant load was on ( accelerating)After the rebuild( 4k$'s worth in labour & some parts!!!) (they replaced the old style lifter too) shes now pretty dam good! ( so far) Occasionally can hit neutral when changing 1st to 2nd, but just requires a +ve foot.
 
O.K. What I've come down to is that all these problems have been caused by not enough Clutch lift (Seams both Goth and Ruzzell think I need to PULL more ! )
What you have said Bones mimics what I've got.
It makes sence that if the clutch is not freeing sufficiently then drive is still "on" in the system, the result being the 4th-5th gear problem I had last year and now this 2nd gear problem.
Currently I still have this craunching from 4th to 5th, clutch drag ! ?

When I pull this down to do second gear I'll be looking very closely at the lift mechanism, with both what Mr Goth and Warp have said in mind.

I've kept this entire thread in my "Service manual" so thanks Guys.

Oh, and Warp re Just my take on it as I am no expert, Yea' right ! :razz: and except at breaking stuff, well that's how we learn. You wanta see the broken Trident stuff I've got
 
This afternoon I ran out of acetylene, so strapped the Gas Bottle on the Bike and went for a ride to get another.
This with the clutch adjusted tight.
1st to 2nd was a lot smoother and so was 4th-5th.
Getting from nuetral to 1st was way smoother and finding nuetral a lot easier.
A few miles down the road after enough gearchanges to convince me that this is/was the problem I backed the adjustment off so as not to burn up the lifter shaft.

When I get this apart I'll be looking very closely at the lifter mechanism. Goth I'll come back to you at that time and revise what you have done.
And Warp, no doubt I'll be pestering you about details as well.
There's not enough space here to put in all the Swear words (Bother, would be one of them) I could use when I think that a simple thing such as clutch lift has stuffed two sets of gears along with the associated cost of pulling and stripping the Engine (twice) to sort it.

Hey, such is life.
What do ya do about it ? ............ get over it, ............ get on with it, .......... and learn from it :whistle:
 
i think this is a lot to do with it too id like to get a spare lift arm and shorten it by 10mm and tig it together this would cause more turn for the same pull on the lever or machine a drum type arrangement mounted to the splined part eccentric to the center to give a progressive turning motion , of course the total lift is controlled by the profile on the rotating lift shaft ,it all looks a bit fragile ,some thing pulling straight on the end would be better (hydraulics been around for along time mr Bloor ,mine shifts up clutchless perfectly
 

Nev I think that is a refference position and use it all the time. I also think with tolerances on the machining of parts you could go either way with it depending on the location or protrusion of the lifter piece. I remember your directions on your clutch had us measure to make sure the back of the lifter piece ended up in the same location. I seen some of the early model crank arms did not have a alignment dot castted on them. In fact Pauls 04 was machined not casted and looked different from the ones the have now days.

If I am reading you right your trying to tell them not to set it up so it over rotates. If the go to far it will either snap the lifter shaft or break the lifter piece. Just guessing from the few mistakes I have made or shall I say learning the expensive way.
 

Yep 90 degrees between fulcrum/end of arm line & direction of pull is the optimum for leverage efficiency
 
easy to understand if you were brought up on rod operated drum brakes:eek3:done the suggested mod yesterday was highly entertaining when i pulled the arm off and twang the return spring did its stuff had to wind it back up juggling two pairs of water pump pliers ,backed the cable off and fitted the arm in its new position readjusted cable ,definite improvement engageing first and neutral with a hot engine (almost silent now grasshopper) cheers nev
 
Sumthin' to be said for blokes who work in tin sheds.....................
 
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