berrypicker
.020 Over
try changing the ignition switch sounds like a low tension fault had the same problem with a few old bikes gets into a range when it vibrates a
bit then loses contact
bit then loses contact
Engine studder below 2000 RPM
- Thread starter hinglby
- Start date
Willtill
Nitrous
Here's an idea (other videos avail on the below link as well):
[video=youtube;UE9CP9zdhUI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UE9CP9zdhUI[/video]
pjsmithres
SD Dreadnought
Just last month a guy I ride with had a dual tanks (Harley) that turned to sludge in about a week.
Not sure how (contaminated fuel/let cap off? no on knows.)
But the good news is there is a guy in San Diego (also does auto painting) that cleaned and resealed the tank. $180 for both tanks.
He used a sandblaster with a crooked nozzle and it's beautiful.
4 days to clean and make sure the epoxy cures.
The Honda shop here has a do it yourself tank repair kit for $70. probably same epoxy, but cleaning is up to you and that Rocket tank is a beast to fill and shake for 30 minutes.
For the $100 more and done well, it was a good move.
Fuel can screw up a good tank.
The inside parts look like surface contamination but may be part of your issue with stutter.
Not sure how (contaminated fuel/let cap off? no on knows.)
But the good news is there is a guy in San Diego (also does auto painting) that cleaned and resealed the tank. $180 for both tanks.
He used a sandblaster with a crooked nozzle and it's beautiful.
4 days to clean and make sure the epoxy cures.
The Honda shop here has a do it yourself tank repair kit for $70. probably same epoxy, but cleaning is up to you and that Rocket tank is a beast to fill and shake for 30 minutes.
For the $100 more and done well, it was a good move.
Fuel can screw up a good tank.
The inside parts look like surface contamination but may be part of your issue with stutter.
Willtill
Nitrous
One thing that hinglby remarked is that he refills when the fuel light goes on. So while he's waiting for that fuel light to go on; is he frequently parking overnight with less than a full tank of fuel? Repeatedly?
I frequently dose my fuel with SeaFoam, in everything that uses gasoline, and keep every tank full to avoid condensation. Air in a fuel tank allows condensation to form on the inside of it. A full tank prevents that - no air.
Having three motorcycles and a truck; and working from home all of the time, guarantee's that my vehicles do not get a lot of usage anymore. So if they sit at less than full for fuel; they're going to condensate on the inside.
SeaFoam is my lifeline; to ensure that the fuel will remain stable and not degrade over time. Plus it cleans the fuel system.
I frequently dose my fuel with SeaFoam, in everything that uses gasoline, and keep every tank full to avoid condensation. Air in a fuel tank allows condensation to form on the inside of it. A full tank prevents that - no air.
Having three motorcycles and a truck; and working from home all of the time, guarantee's that my vehicles do not get a lot of usage anymore. So if they sit at less than full for fuel; they're going to condensate on the inside.
SeaFoam is my lifeline; to ensure that the fuel will remain stable and not degrade over time. Plus it cleans the fuel system.
pjsmithres
SD Dreadnought
seafoam can be had here for 649 on sale at the local auto store twice a year.
I buy 6 cans amd pour 1/3 can in a full Rocket tank probably every 4 tanks. Since I don't normally need a full tank to refill there is some carryover tank to tank.
I also pour a half can in the two cars 4th of July and Christmas. It's on a schedule.
I believe in Seafoam.
Also good.
Chevron TECHRON fuel add is also good to keep injectors clean. The Volvo dealer here puts one in the car with instructions to add at next fuel up, when we get the routine oil change maintenance check.
The 1991Volvo has 260,000 miles and injectors haven't needed to come off for mechanical cleaning yet. (nor the turbo)
I buy 6 cans amd pour 1/3 can in a full Rocket tank probably every 4 tanks. Since I don't normally need a full tank to refill there is some carryover tank to tank.
I also pour a half can in the two cars 4th of July and Christmas. It's on a schedule.
I believe in Seafoam.
Also good.
Chevron TECHRON fuel add is also good to keep injectors clean. The Volvo dealer here puts one in the car with instructions to add at next fuel up, when we get the routine oil change maintenance check.
The 1991Volvo has 260,000 miles and injectors haven't needed to come off for mechanical cleaning yet. (nor the turbo)
I understand that keeping the gas tank full will help prevent condensation and therefore corrosion. Without having a gas pump in my garage, its just not possible to keep the tank full for overnight parking. For the last 7 years I have rode the bike to work almost every day. 60 miles a day, which means the light comes on every 2.5 days. Here in Arizona we have very low humidity but huge temperature swings. I think everyone is correct. In a perfect scenario keeping the tank topped off would help prevent this problem.
Logically though, why are some of the parts covered in a white corrosion film with spots of rust? I think somewhere or sometime I got some bad gas. The reason I think so is because the white residue appears to be the cadmium plating off the bracket being eaten away. Where the cadmium is gone is where the rust spots appear. Normal fuel shouldn't do this.
I have used seafoam in the past, but typically use lucas additive in every other tank and stabil at every oil change (my schedule) to make sure any water is captured and used.
I have the replacement parts for everything that is corroded. I cleaned the tank with WD40 soak, rust remover, CLR, Deionized water rinse. Should have it all back together in a few hours, anxious for a test ride to see if the studdering/hesitation is gone.
I'll keep posting the progress. I thank everyone again for all the information. You are awesome!
Logically though, why are some of the parts covered in a white corrosion film with spots of rust? I think somewhere or sometime I got some bad gas. The reason I think so is because the white residue appears to be the cadmium plating off the bracket being eaten away. Where the cadmium is gone is where the rust spots appear. Normal fuel shouldn't do this.
I have used seafoam in the past, but typically use lucas additive in every other tank and stabil at every oil change (my schedule) to make sure any water is captured and used.
I have the replacement parts for everything that is corroded. I cleaned the tank with WD40 soak, rust remover, CLR, Deionized water rinse. Should have it all back together in a few hours, anxious for a test ride to see if the studdering/hesitation is gone.
I'll keep posting the progress. I thank everyone again for all the information. You are awesome!
berrypicker
.020 Over
there is quite a lot of ethanol in the modern high octane fuels which absorb moisture and a bit of toluene too it plays havoc with the old carburettors too coating all the bits with a white residue buts thats the trade off for high octane
Re the stutter check the single wires that are piggybacked off the main heavy battery cables there is a connector on them that can get corroded
Re the stutter check the single wires that are piggybacked off the main heavy battery cables there is a connector on them that can get corroded
pjsmithres
SD Dreadnought
I too am curious about the white gunk
Hello all.
It looks looks the white stuff was caused by the ethanol and other additives. It attacked the plating on the bracket that holds the fuel pump, filter etc. I figured it out by soaking some metal parts with similar plating in ethanol, denatured alcohol, stabil etc (all separately). There was a white residue on anything soaked in high concentrations of alcohol or alcohol blends. It was substantially worse if I added a little water.
After changing the fuel pump, regulator and fuel filter the problem seems to have gone away. I've done several 150 mile rides and a crap load of local trips and have not had any studdering or hesitation. I hope it stays away, unemployment does not lend to financial stability and the means to purchase parts.
Thanks again for all the help and ideas. There is an abundance of information here on this forum.
I will post if anything develops.
It looks looks the white stuff was caused by the ethanol and other additives. It attacked the plating on the bracket that holds the fuel pump, filter etc. I figured it out by soaking some metal parts with similar plating in ethanol, denatured alcohol, stabil etc (all separately). There was a white residue on anything soaked in high concentrations of alcohol or alcohol blends. It was substantially worse if I added a little water.
After changing the fuel pump, regulator and fuel filter the problem seems to have gone away. I've done several 150 mile rides and a crap load of local trips and have not had any studdering or hesitation. I hope it stays away, unemployment does not lend to financial stability and the means to purchase parts.
Thanks again for all the help and ideas. There is an abundance of information here on this forum.
I will post if anything develops.
Willtill
Nitrous
Well that's good to hear that you have been able to cure the studdering. Crap fuel these days...
I buy all of my fuel from Shell. They are supposedly one of the top tier fuel suppliers here in 'murica. One of these days I'm going to drain Hell On Wheels fuel tank and look around inside with my remote inspection camera... now I'm curious as well.
I buy all of my fuel from Shell. They are supposedly one of the top tier fuel suppliers here in 'murica. One of these days I'm going to drain Hell On Wheels fuel tank and look around inside with my remote inspection camera... now I'm curious as well.
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