When clamped to the negative bothe wires were lit but when pushed the rod on sensor ( sensor was not fit in a lever ) then one cable - black one did not lit anymore
 
When clamped to the negative bothe wires were lit but when pushed the rod on sensor ( sensor was not fit in a lever ) then one cable - black one did not lit anymore

That tells me the switch is working.
 
I guess I am assuming the problem is the motor will not crank over?

If cranking is problem then I would say that we should move to the starter relay.
I am at home and all books r at my shop.
If u pull the relay out of connector about
1/4 inch u will have access to probe the blades.
 
Clamp of probe on neg bat post
Being careful not to short two terminals with the probe.
If u have ohm meter then pull relay and ohm to find the apply circuit.then post
If not then sign on and probe terminals.
Starter may crank while doing this.
Post results.
 
I had to ask a client of mine professionally dealing with things like that for help because I realised im **** with things like that and UNDERSTANDABLY some of you here started to lose patience with me and get annoyed ;-(

So here it goes:

Black/red wire from the clutch sensor somewhere along the way changes into plain black and then onto..... Orange/black.
Plain black from the side stand changes to black/red before they get to ECU . That itself created all this confusion during testing.

For some strange reason prong in a clutch sensor started to be a bit too long for after market lever. We filed it so it works now.

On top of that starter button was not working properly. We had to take it apart and clean. I might still need a new one in the future.

Unfortunately in a meantime battery died and could not start the engine but it cranks!!!

Because I can't start the engine there still no answer about fuel gauge but checking wires voltage etc there is no reason not to work. Will have to take it for a spin tomorrow to check ;-)
Before I do that I will have to fiddle with a bear claw to get it on without a gap and put all the other covers on. But by tomorrow I should know about fuel gauge.

Thanks for your help and priceless advice. Respect
 
while helping out on the the diagnoses of clutch switch i have have learned a little myself.
so in the future i would suggest when the checking clutch switch use a volt meter.
place one black to lead to to (earth)ground (suggest neg bat post)
the red lead to the terminal that has approximate 5 volts (one side should show approximate 0 volts)
while red probe connected showing 5 volts pull in clutch lever and voltage should go to approximate 0 volts
this test will check voltage from ecu thru the switch to a ground circuit.

what thru me off in my advice was my test light would not lite with 5 volts.
 
I had a starter issue that I initially thought was the Clutch switch as I would pull the clutch in and out several times then it would fire up.
I pulled the unit apart, inside is just a sliding brass bar and a pair of contacts, I cleaned them and put it all back together with no avail :(

@R-III-R Turbo had an issue (can't remember what) with his switch, I sent him some drawings or photos of the inside, maybe he will get this note and respond with what I sent him.

Oh ! in the end it wasn't the switch, it was the starter relay under the R/H side cover that was the problem.

Sorry Paul only seeing this now by chance, for some reason.
These are the pics you sent me when I had to fabricate the parts that were lost.
Better late than pregnant! Thanks again.

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