After helping another member diagnose power issue, thought I would share this tip.
This may be well-known to many of you but for those less comfortable in 'lectrix here is the most effective way to check your Fuses, where you check them in-circuit rather than pulling each one to inspect or read for continuity:
Set your meter to DC Volts and leave the black negative probe connected to the Battery Negative Terminal;
Then touch the Red probe to the metal tabs on
each side of the Fuse;
Some fuses are powered constantly while others will only be 'live' with ignition on;
This method gives you two pieces of data -
1) that there is indeed getting to the Fuse you are checking
2) that if power is present on BOTH sides, the Fuse is good (and conversely on one side only, is 'open')
Note that most of the Fuses are all live even with ignition off
(1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 7 & 11) - 11 is the main Fuse and if this one is dead you will have no power on ANY of them.
(this is case for classics AND the later Roadster or Tourer)
For the remaining Fuses the Ignition will have to be ON.
This is how you check the voltage on the Fuses (that is NOT a Rocket Fuse Panel but technique is same)
I would also suggest that you carry a compact DMM with you as one of your 'tools'
I have my more sophisticated one that I use in the shop, but carry a compact one similar to this with me always.
Here's an example of a super-inexpensive model (<$10!) that will do the job just fine and take up minimal space under the seat
http://www.sears.com/steren-digital...sellerId=SEARS&prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3