A look at the 2.5 Innards - DIY 20K mile service, including valve clearance check and shim replacement

[Spooled73]

Update: Buttoned her up last night and test rode this morning. A definite improvement! At first I thought it could be the placebo effect, after all that work but, no, it is definitely running more smoothly and strongly. I wouldn't think that a couple of tight valves would make much difference, so I think the timing must have been a tad off- now it's dead on!
All parts accounted for and not a single extra screw or bolt wondering where to go.

This project probably took five times longer than expected- waiting on parts, waiting on a tool that I failed to get in the first order, figuring out the compressors (with advice) on the camshafts, and then that dang clutch fiasco (trying to build pressure). That was the hardest and most frustrating of all, so at least the next time I won't have that to deal with and I'll have all the tools and shims ready to go. I will say that how things go together on this bike is very sequential. Getting things lined up and trying to fit big hands in small places to start screws, etc. ate up a good bit of time.

I'm hoping some of what I've learned will help someone else who decides to do their own 20K service. I need the written record too, because I have the memory of a gnat and don't want to start almost from scratch the next time.

I'm going to get some riding in and will come back and add more from where I left off from at some point soon. Just know that it can be done and if I can do it, so can you....

Sounds like a pretty involved job, considering all the tools you need & not having all the shims required etc might be easier just to get the Dealer to do it. I can't understand why you need valve clearances done @ 20K Yamaha clearances are done @ 40K & rarely need adjustment. Are they not set properly from new??

 

[papanorm]

I think that for some things the mothership is pushing maintenance items to keep the dealers in business.

 

[Journeyman]

Sounds like a pretty involved job, considering all the tools you need & not having all the shims required etc might be easier just to get the Dealer to do it. I can't understand why you need valve clearances done @ 20K Yamaha clearances are done @ 40K & rarely need adjustment. Are they not set properly from new??

• It IS a pretty involved job- definitely more involved than the same procedure on the 2.3s.
• The clearances on the Triumph are also checked/set at 20K, 40K, etc. Set properly at the factory, but they tighten up over time.
• If you dive in and don't want to be out of commission for a long while order a shim kit and all the other Triumph parts I've listed in advance.
• Just to get a Triumph dealership to check the valves is going to cost you over 1K US, according to reports from other members and if they actually swap shims it's going to be more like in the 2K range. Doing this procedure isn't for everyone, but there's great satisfaction in knowing it's done correctly while saving a boatload of money.
• My valves were out of spec- not by a lot, but out of spec and I knew they would only gradually get further out of adjustment. With the proper adjustment and the timing reset perfectly the bike absolutely ran better.
• If you want to flush your clutch fluid you will have to go in that deep. Have a look at it in the MC now and you'll be very surprised at how nasty it looks even at 10K miles. You can suck fluid out of the MC (don't go too low!) and add some fresh as a stop gap measure. Rinse and repeat periodically.
• I'm about to hit 40k and will give an update (and maybe more pictures or video) on how that goes

 

[Spooled73]

• It IS a pretty involved job- definitely more involved than the same procedure on the 2.3s.
• The clearances on the Triumph are also checked/set at 20K, 40K, etc. Set properly at the factory, but they tighten up over time.
• If you dive in and don't want to be out of commission for a long while order a shim kit and all the other Triumph parts I've listed in advance.
• Just to get a Triumph dealership to check the valves is going to cost you over 1K US, according to reports from other members and if they actually swap shims it's going to be more like in the 2K range. Doing this procedure isn't for everyone, but there's great satisfaction in knowing it's done correctly while saving a boatload of money.
• My valves were out of spec- not by a lot, but out of spec and I knew they would only gradually get further out of adjustment. With the proper adjustment and the timing reset perfectly the bike absolutely ran better.
• If you want to flush your clutch fluid you will have to go in that deep. Have a look at it in the MC now and you'll be very surprised at how nasty it looks even at 10K miles. You can suck fluid out of the MC (don't go too low!) and add some fresh as a stop gap measure. Rinse and repeat periodically.
• I'm about to hit 40k and will give an update (and maybe more pictures or video) on how that goes

I know what you mean about the clutch/brake fluid once it discolours it stains the reservoir & there's no going back. I use a vacuum oil extractor to suck it out I'm a bit fussy like that...

 

[rick danger]

• It IS a pretty involved job- definitely more involved than the same procedure on the 2.3s.
• The clearances on the Triumph are also checked/set at 20K, 40K, etc. Set properly at the factory, but they tighten up over time.
• If you dive in and don't want to be out of commission for a long while order a shim kit and all the other Triumph parts I've listed in advance.
• Just to get a Triumph dealership to check the valves is going to cost you over 1K US, according to reports from other members and if they actually swap shims it's going to be more like in the 2K range. Doing this procedure isn't for everyone, but there's great satisfaction in knowing it's done correctly while saving a boatload of money.
• My valves were out of spec- not by a lot, but out of spec and I knew they would only gradually get further out of adjustment. With the proper adjustment and the timing reset perfectly the bike absolutely ran better.
• If you want to flush your clutch fluid you will have to go in that deep. Have a look at it in the MC now and you'll be very surprised at how nasty it looks even at 10K miles. You can suck fluid out of the MC (don't go too low!) and add some fresh as a stop gap measure. Rinse and repeat periodically.
• I'm about to hit 40k and will give an update (and maybe more pictures or video) on how that goes

so I found this thread in a search for clutch slave bleed procedure. I usually do a reverse bleed on my ktm's, but the slave is just sitting right there in the open. I figured it was a PIA when I heard it was behind the rad. And I also had the idea of frequently syringing out fluid from the master, but wondered how much circulation there really is going on in the system, and how effective it would be doing that. Are there any threads on just a clutch bleed?

 

[Journeyman]

so I found this thread in a search for clutch slave bleed procedure. I usually do a reverse bleed on my ktm's, but the slave is just sitting right there in the open. I figured it was a PIA when I heard it was behind the rad. And I also had the idea of frequently syringing out fluid from the master, but wondered how much circulation there really is going on in the system, and how effective it would be doing that. Are there any threads on just a clutch bleed?

A thread on just a clutch bleed would be what I have in my link and just skipping all the other things I would definitely do while you're already there. The bleed procedure is outlined in the service manual. It's just like bleeding a brake, so I didn't go into it and if you're comfortable going that deep the actual bleed procedure is a piece of cake. However, understanding how to also bleed the master cylinder up top is not easily found and you'll want to also do this after bleeding from the slave. This link, which includes my unnecessary struggles, should be of help...

What Your Clutch Fluid looks like at 20K - Also, Issues Restoring Pressure and Fixes

Here's what your clutch fluid looks like at 20,000 miles.... There was sludge at the bottom. Replacing the fluid is part of the 20,000 mile service. Other information on that can be found here...

www.r3owners.net

 

[rick danger]

A thread on just a clutch bleed would be what I have in my link and just skipping all the other things I would definitely do while you're already there. The bleed procedure is outlined in the service manual. It's just like bleeding a brake, so I didn't go into it and if you're comfortable going that deep the actual bleed procedure is a piece of cake. However, understanding how to also bleed the master cylinder up top is not easily found and you'll want to also do this after bleeding from the slave. This link, which includes my unnecessary struggles, should be of help...

What Your Clutch Fluid looks like at 20K - Also, Issues Restoring Pressure and Fixes

Here's what your clutch fluid looks like at 20,000 miles.... There was sludge at the bottom. Replacing the fluid is part of the 20,000 mile service. Other information on that can be found here...

www.r3owners.net

Thanks. I just looked in the master. Not to much to suck out. I thought it was low, and the black rubber bladder but just needed to be folded back up. But this one looks fixed and takes up half the master. Anyway, sucked out a little and filled back up. edit: ha, nice to be half blind. I didnt see the "max" tit there when I was in there. Just after posting a big picture of it

 

[Journeyman]

I must have a very small leak in my clutch system, so I bleed the MC fairly often to restore full clutch function and go ahead and replace most of the fluid in the reservoir while I'm at it. At some point I'll locate and fix that leak.
Signs of this are the bike having a little more trouble going into neutral , feeling like it wants to creep forward at stops, and slightly harder shifts in general. If you have any of these you may not actually need a new clutch, you just have air in the MC that needs to be bleed out. Really easy to do.

 

[zenbiker]

Part 2
At this point if you've determined you need to replace some shims. You'll need several special tools

• Timing Chain Tensioner Socket (T3880649) - This seems to just be a large socket. I used a 1 1/8" that was a tad loose, but worked just fine. A 34mm might be the exact one. Not sure why it's sold as a special tool
• Camshaft Timing Bar (T3880502) - I can't believe I paid for this, but now you don't have to. This is simply a flat bar of steel: 240mm X 24mm x 4.93mm
• Crankshaft Locking Pin (T3880501) - This one you'll need
• Timing Chain Tensioner (T3880651) - This one is also required. Not to be confused with The camshaft drive chain tensioner on your bike.
• Timing Torque Limiter (T3880609) - I purchased a torque setter off Amazon instead for a lot less

and some parts...

• O ring for the cam chain tensioner (T3601276)
• Clutch Cover Gasket (T1264070)
• Clutch Slave Cylinder Gasket (T1171711)
• Fuel Filter (T2407046)
• Air Filter (T2201813)
• Spark Plugs (NGK LMAR8A9 / aka NGK 4313)
• Coolant - Zerex G05 50/50
• Hot Cams 9.48mm Complete Shim Kit HCSHIM02

• Coolant Drainage (937)

• Coolant Expansion Tank Removal (1516)
• Radiator Removal (948)

• Clutch Cover Removal (259)

The water pump is part of the clutch cover. All this needs to come off so you can turn the crank where the pump was attached. I think attempting to turn the rear wheel, as you do to check valve clearances would not be an option given the procedure.

Remove the upper radiator hose and other things (including that front bracket I mentioned earlier, that is now swung out of the way) so that you can see the camshaft gears.

Remove Crankshaft Locking Pin Plug- follow directions and insert tool (slides all the way in if aligned correctly) as seen here...

More to come....

Luckily...I am very old (81) and now only put a few hundred miles per year on my R3. Used to do 5-10K/year when younger.
At this point in my life, I'd rather change to a new bike than go through this mechanical explanation.
In my earlier days, I did all the work myself but now....to the dealer for all including maintenance!