A look at the 2.5 Innards - DIY 20K mile service, including valve clearance check and shim replacement

[imcool]

That one shim that you always need, but have all the others, is coming today. Hoping to be back on this project later this afternoon. The cam chain tensioner tool came earlier and I now have a better understanding of how it works. It puts a very specific tension on the chain while the cams are in the proper position while at TDC. Then you tighten down the sprockets on the cams while in that position for exact timing. This IS an improvement over the 2.3s. More to come as I, hopefully, start to button her up. Just hoping I can remember where everything goes .....

Top man Journeyman

 

[Journeyman]

Update: Buttoned her up last night and test rode this morning. A definite improvement! At first I thought it could be the placebo effect, after all that work but, no, it is definitely running more smoothly and strongly. I wouldn't think that a couple of tight valves would make much difference, so I think the timing must have been a tad off- now it's dead on!
All parts accounted for and not a single extra screw or bolt wondering where to go.

This project probably took five times longer than expected- waiting on parts, waiting on a tool that I failed to get in the first order, figuring out the compressors (with advice) on the camshafts, and then that dang clutch fiasco (trying to build pressure). That was the hardest and most frustrating of all, so at least the next time I won't have that to deal with and I'll have all the tools and shims ready to go. I will say that how things go together on this bike is very sequential. Getting things lined up and trying to fit big hands in small places to start screws, etc. ate up a good bit of time.

I'm hoping some of what I've learned will help someone else who decides to do their own 20K service. I need the written record too, because I have the memory of a gnat and don't want to start almost from scratch the next time.

I'm going to get some riding in and will come back and add more from where I left off from at some point soon. Just know that it can be done and if I can do it, so can you....

 

[Kevin frazier]

Great job big hands !

 

[stingray]

Well done. Besides the most recent software you are beating the stealers hands down. Any video or pictures setting those timing sprockets? Using the new tool?
Enjoy the ride. There's nothing like a well tuned one.

 

[wjb]

I thought gnats had a pretty decent memory. I could be wrong, I'm not current with the very latest gnat updates.

Seriously, good job!

 

[Azisbest]

Just for information purposes I have had the valves checked twice in the 64,000 miles I have ridden my 2020 GT with no valve out of spec so far.

 

[Journeyman]

Just for information purposes I have had the valves checked twice in the 64,000 miles I have ridden my 2020 GT with no valve out of spec so far.

I've never been so lucky. I put 80k on my Roadster and it needed at least one shim nearly every time I checked it, so I wasn't surprised with the 3R. But, if yours checks out then, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."

If you're taking it to a dealer for your service work though, they should have recommended changing the clutch fluid (every two years, regardless of mileage).

Also, did they check the camshaft timing at 20, 40, and 60K? Both of those require getting in as deep as I had to go and would have been expensive. If so, they should have replaced your clutch fluid then.

The fees are probably pretty standard amongst dealers in the U.S. Would you, or someone else, mind sharing what they charge to check the valve clearance? Also, to replace shims and check the timing- I'm just curious to know. It must be $$$.

• Checking the valve clearance requires removing the tank, coils, evap canister, and valve cover. I guess you could bump the rear wheel around to get the cams in place for a check and maybe that's what some shops do. While you're there you'd want to change the air and fuel filters and possibly spark plugs.
• To change shims you need to also remove the radiator and clutch cover. This gives you access to the crank for precise turning of the engine so you can insert a tool to lock it in at TDC. At this point the clutch bleeder is exposed, so you'd want to change the clutch fluid and since you've drained the radiator you'll be replacing the fluid there, as well. Removing the plenum exposes the chain tensioner, where you'll insert the special tool used to adjust the camshaft timing. With the plenum off you've also exposed where you get to the adjustment to sync the throttle bodies, if needed.

 

[Journeyman]

Well done. Besides the most recent software you are beating the stealers hands down. Any video or pictures setting those timing sprockets? Using the new tool?
Enjoy the ride. There's nothing like a well tuned one.

I shot some footage and took some pictures along the way. What I decided to do was not really a step-by-step, as that would have been very long and tedious to watch, but more of a supplement to the service manual that filled in the blanks where it was lacking, or wrong. I'll try to get to this in the next few days.

I did some hard riding yesterday on The Devils Whip (Hwy 80) in western NC and other back roads and can say, hands down that the bike is running much better. As things change slowly over time you don't notice the decline in performance. Acceleration is very noticeably smoother and much stronger. I think the timing adjustment was the main contributor, helped along with the new spark plugs, air filter, and valve adjustment.

I'm running the @Penner tune. I really don't think a custom dyno tune could squeeze much more out of the bike. Runs absolutely perfect!

 

[Journeyman]

Part 3

• Check valve clearances. Remember that the decompressors will throw off the readings on the adjacent exhaust valves. Simply rotate the decompressors so that they do not press down on the bucket, then take your reading.

• If you're out of tolerance the easiest thing to do (if you don't want your bike sidelined waiting for shipping) is to buy a shim kit from Hot Cams ahead of time, although most of the sizes you'll never use.
• I like this calculator for determining shim sizes, but since you'll want to work from the right side of the bike for both inlet and exhaust cams, I find the numbering going from left to right backwards for the piston order and it's easy to make mistakes. I disregard his numbers and just fill the blanks in the same order I see the cams- so from left to right is 6,5,4,3,2,1. This will make sense when it's in front of you. Double/triple check your measurements and calculations- it's very easy to make a mistake. Basically if the clearance is too tight, for example, you want to go with a smaller shim to make the gap larger.
• Remove the camshafts in order to replace the shims.

This video shows the procedure for replacing the shims and setting the camshaft timing.

See, it all just takes 3 minutes, five seconds to do....

After that you're most of the way home.

• Reinstall the cam cover and new spark plugs. More on that here...

Before attempting to install the cover be sure to slide up and spin this aggravating bracket out of the way...

• Replace the clutch cover and reinstall the clutch slave unit.
• Replace the fluid in the clutch. Easy to do, but do not let the level fall below the reservoir or you'll run into the problems that I did- not so bad once you know the fix. If your mind wanders too, the solution is described in my nightmare post here.

• Install the radiator and overflow jug. This will be fairly easy if your hands are the size of a twelve-year old Thai girl. Follow the order of things in the manual- it makes a difference.
• If your throttle bodies are out of sync reinstall the gas tank, install the fuel pump fuse, and connect the battery. The blank for adjusting the throttle bodies is visible with the plenum off. I believe it is a 30 torx security head. Remove it, connect TuneECU and fire up the bike. The adjuster is a small hex located three or more inches deep inside the hole where the blank was. One of those folding tools with the various sizes is long enough to reach.
• Install new air filter

• Reinstall the plenum (you'll need to remove the tank and disconnect the battery again if you had to adjust your throttle bodies).
• Install new fuel filter. More on that here...

• Reinstall the gas tank (what a PIA compared to the older Rockets, along with the entire valve adjustment process) and instrument panel
• Connect the battery
• Go riding......

 

[Azisbest]

I've never been so lucky. I put 80k on my Roadster and it needed at least one shim nearly every time I checked it, so I wasn't surprised with the 3R. But, if yours checks out then, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."

If you're taking it to a dealer for your service work though, they should have recommended changing the clutch fluid (every two years, regardless of mileage).

Also, did they check the camshaft timing at 20, 40, and 60K? Both of those require getting in as deep as I had to go and would have been expensive. If so, they should have replaced your clutch fluid then.

The fees are probably pretty standard amongst dealers in the U.S. Would you, or someone else, mind sharing what they charge to check the valve clearance? Also, to replace shims and check the timing- I'm just curious to know. It must be $$$.

• Checking the valve clearance requires removing the tank, coils, evap canister, and valve cover. I guess you could bump the rear wheel around to get the cams in place for a check and maybe that's what some shops do. While you're there you'd want to change the air and fuel filters and possibly spark plugs.
• To change shims you need to also remove the radiator and clutch cover. This gives you access to the crank for precise turning of the engine so you can insert a tool to lock it in at TDC. At this point the clutch bleeder is exposed, so you'd want to change the clutch fluid and since you've drained the radiator you'll be replacing the fluid there, as well. Removing the plenum exposes the chain tensioner, where you'll insert the special tool used to adjust the camshaft timing. With the plenum off you've also exposed where you get to the adjustment to sync the throttle bodies, if needed.

I know nothing about what they did beyond checking the valves. One time I used a dealer the next a local bike shop. I cant remember how muchthe first check done by a Triumph dealer cost but I think the local shop charged like $700, but both found the valves in spec. I am sure they did nothing beyond the valve check unless the cam timing is something they would usually do during that procedure.