Upgraded starter, battery cables - will not start/engine light - forgot neutral/clutch lever

Update. I'll preface that the Rocket III I'm working on is not mine. Helping out a buddy.

The bike started right up this evening like nobody's business!

The fix: pull in the clutch when starting a Rocket III. Turbo200R4 - much appreciate the sage advice!

It never occurred to me to pull the clutch in last night. I ride a Harley Street Glide that allows starting in neutral without the clutch.

Thanks for all the help here - I almost had to turn-in all my wrenches in shame. This is an excellent forum!

I am curious about the part number and the rotation. I assume the bike would not start if not the correct rotation.
 
You know what guys? This happens often enough where we all pipe in with our comments, suggestions and solutions (shows just how willing this community wants to help). Sometimes this can lead to confusion. I have my own way of checking for a no start condition which is probably different than yours.

Has anyone ever made or come across a step by step checklist on how to troubleshoot a 'No Start" condition? Probably need to have a sequence/list for each symptom we've seen like;
1. Engine cranks but doesn't start. (No fuel issue)
- step one
- step two etc etc
2. Engine cranks but doesn't start. (No spark issue)
- etc etc
3. Engine doesn't crank but lights turn on (power to dash).
- etc etc
4. Engine doesn't crank and no lights turn on (no power to dash)
- etc etc.

This would probably help the fellows who would normally send their rides to the shop rather than try to solve the problem.
 
@TURBO200R4 Posted this as a response to another plea for help and I thought it was very good so I copied it so I could refer to it when needed.
If it proves helpful it could be added to the forum, or you could just do what I did and save a copy for yourself.
(misspellings are Turbo's)

trouble shooting tree
questions
#1 when you turn the key on does the needles sweep yes go to # 2
or no could be battery, ignition switch ,fuses ,connectors under the tank ,engine management relay, ect

#2 does the green light come on for neutral yes go to #3
or no could be not in neutral, bad gear sensor ,wiring

#3 with the clutch lever pulled in push starter button does the engine turn over yes go to #4
or no could be bad clutch lever switch (hold starter button in while releasing lever to check) or bad starter button, bad kick stand or not all the way up, bad starter relay, bad battery or bad connections at battery,
#3.5 THIS IS THE DREADED CLICK
assuming u hear a loud click from the starter this says that the current is passing through any alarm system, the ignition, fuses, starter relay then down to the starter solenoid.
explaining the starter solenoid. it is like a large switch that has two contacts (when the solenoid/switch clacks that means it is energized and all circuits are good from ignition to solenoid) at this point if every thing good the washer in side will make contact with the two terminal post inside solenoid causing the bendix gear (to move into the flywheel teeth) the connection of the main positive battery terminal thru positive cable into starter to ground this is causing (rotating starter ) .
problem #1
solenoid/switch is on (energized) but it does not make contact with the two terminals to transmit volt/amps through the starter which means the volts will remain high about 12v. single clack

problem #2
low battery** or bad positive cable solenoid/switch is on (energized) and it makes contact with the two terminals to transfer volt/amps through the starter which means the volts will drop below the amount to work the starter (about 9.5) along with the rest of the ignition and when that happens the relays will close and if u still have your thumb on the starter button it may repeat the engagement several times remain the volts will vary from 12v to 9.5 some times multiple clacks

#4 the engine is turning over good does the motor start yes your are ok till problem shows up again
or no. Can you hear the fuel running for about 2 seconds as soon as you turn the key on yes go to #5
or no could be bad fuel pump, fuel pump relay ,wiring

#5 assuming the fuel pump has enough pressure the problem could be terminals at coils,bad gas,injector or injector wiring.

we have seen connectors ,fuse terminals, the wire on ign. switch melting,

this is just a helping hand and does not cover all problems. there may be mistakes in this as i have not spent a lot of time typing this. i may make changes latter and welcome info from others to correct the info i have typed here.
 
@TURBO200R4 Posted this as a response to another plea for help and I thought it was very good so I copied it so I could refer to it when needed.
If it proves helpful it could be added to the forum, or you could just do what I did and save a copy for yourself.
(misspellings are Turbo's)

trouble shooting tree
questions
#1 when you turn the key on does the needles sweep yes go to # 2
or no could be battery, ignition switch ,fuses ,connectors under the tank ,engine management relay, ect

#2 does the green light come on for neutral yes go to #3
or no could be not in neutral, bad gear sensor ,wiring

#3 with the clutch lever pulled in push starter button does the engine turn over yes go to #4
or no could be bad clutch lever switch (hold starter button in while releasing lever to check) or bad starter button, bad kick stand or not all the way up, bad starter relay, bad battery or bad connections at battery,
#3.5 THIS IS THE DREADED CLICK
assuming u hear a loud click from the starter this says that the current is passing through any alarm system, the ignition, fuses, starter relay then down to the starter solenoid.
explaining the starter solenoid. it is like a large switch that has two contacts (when the solenoid/switch clacks that means it is energized and all circuits are good from ignition to solenoid) at this point if every thing good the washer in side will make contact with the two terminal post inside solenoid causing the bendix gear (to move into the flywheel teeth) the connection of the main positive battery terminal thru positive cable into starter to ground this is causing (rotating starter ) .
problem #1
solenoid/switch is on (energized) but it does not make contact with the two terminals to transmit volt/amps through the starter which means the volts will remain high about 12v. single clack

problem #2
low battery** or bad positive cable solenoid/switch is on (energized) and it makes contact with the two terminals to transfer volt/amps through the starter which means the volts will drop below the amount to work the starter (about 9.5) along with the rest of the ignition and when that happens the relays will close and if u still have your thumb on the starter button it may repeat the engagement several times remain the volts will vary from 12v to 9.5 some times multiple clacks

#4 the engine is turning over good does the motor start yes your are ok till problem shows up again
or no. Can you hear the fuel running for about 2 seconds as soon as you turn the key on yes go to #5
or no could be bad fuel pump, fuel pump relay ,wiring

#5 assuming the fuel pump has enough pressure the problem could be terminals at coils,bad gas,injector or injector wiring.

we have seen connectors ,fuse terminals, the wire on ign. switch melting,

this is just a helping hand and does not cover all problems. there may be mistakes in this as i have not spent a lot of time typing this. i may make changes latter and welcome info from others to correct the info i have typed here.

That was a long time ago
We need to study up on it to see what needs to be added. Thanks for adding my home made flow chart.
 
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